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Trying to mate MML 5 lug stub w/ AZC brakes?


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OK, I've tried searching but I think my question is too specific and I didn't find an answer. Here's my deal .I just got the MML billet 5 lug stub axle from Ross. I must say these are beautiful pieces. I also got the AZC 5 lug brakes. The AZC brakes are designed to be bolted to the oem 4 lug stub axles, however this will not be possible with the new stubs.

 

So I'm wondering if I can just press out the wheels studs from the AZC hats and slide the rotro/hat over the 5 lug stub axles and keep everything secure with the lug nuts? I've seen rear brakes held together like this before but I'm not sure if it's such a good idea in this case....?

 

I plan on contacting the makers of these items with this question in the morning but I thought I'd ask here too. Thanks.

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The pilot hole in the middle of the rotor hat probably isn't the right size for the hub, since it's meant to go on the other side. Also the offset would be WAY off, and you'd need to space the caliper out a lot just to get it centered over the rotor again. Then I suspect that your next problem would be that the caliper hit the wheel.

 

I think you could probably have a decent machinist redrill the AZC hat to match the MM hub. The weird part is that I thought both setups were designed off of the 300ZX 5 lug hub, which should mean that they have the same bolt pattern. I guess I was wrong on that one. Maybe Ross changed the bolt spacing when he made his hubs or something.

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Well I'm hoping this will work as well. I don't see why it wouldn't. I consulted with a few people before doing this and everyone said it should be fine. I'd like to hear what the folks here think about running the rear brakes this way.

 

Here's a pic of what I've done. The studs were pressed out of the hats and the new 5 lug stub axles and studs slid right through. There are 3 unused holes still in the hats. Worst case scenario is I will have to have new hats cnc made for the rear. i'm hoping this is not the case.

 

And as a disclaimer: I did contact the makers of both these parts. Since the parts aren't really designed to go together I really don't have their "approval" of doing this mod. I'm on my own on this one and that's OK with me becasue I do belive this will work just fine.

 

My biggest concern will be with alignment of the rotor and caliper once everything is bolted together. I won't be able to do that for a week or two, once I get the axle carriers back from powder coating.

8455AZC_MML-med.JPG

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My biggest concern will be with alignment of the rotor and caliper once everything is bolted together. I won't be able to do that for a week or two' date=' once I get the axle carriers back from powder coating.

8455AZC_MML-med.JPG

 

A little off topic, but do you mean rear strut tube assemblies? If so, what kind of cost was it to have them both powdercoated?

 

Thanks,

Joshua

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My biggest concern will be with alignment of the rotor and caliper once everything is bolted together. I won't be able to do that for a week or two' date=' once I get the axle carriers back from powder coating.

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Alignment won't be a problem. It is exactlty the same as the 4 lug rear, just thicker.

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Thanks for the feedback.

 

Jolane, yes I was referring to the strut tube assemblies. Powdercoating cost me $165 for all four tubes. This price is considering I've bben to this place alot recently. They are located in N cal. PM me if you would like their contact info.

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  • 2 years later...

FIRSTLY, HAPPY NEW YEARS EVERYONE!

 

John, feel free to drop us a note with any other questions. We've got a few customers running this combo with our rear stub axles, not everyone's got our brakes:icon10:. Dave's got fine products and easy to understand some wanting to marry the two products.

 

What's key is proper fitment of the rotor hat holes with the wheel studs themselves. (this is true of most assemblies, proper hole to fastener fitment's critical for longevity/proper function, rotors/custom wheel spacers etc etc). The lug nuts etc should only have to keep it locked down/not stop the assembly from shifting in the bored holes. The wheel stud takes the shear as intended as long as it's locked down properly which proper fitment and torque will complete.

 

I recall recommending to Jaime firstly that he contact Dave of AZC as Dave should be informed of his product's use outside intended use. (his thickened rear hat utilizes a combination of press in studs and pass thrU bolt through the factory stub axle as I recall). Secondly that he utilize a slip on function with the AZC assembly. Ensuring his AZC setup had a bored hole pattern fitting our wheel studs properly (it had to fit perfect as is or be modified easily to fit perfectly). Our billet stub axle that Jaime was utilizing would have had 1/2" studs in it. Either bore the existing AZC holes to suit or put an alternate pattern in to suit. I'm not aware if Dave's modified his 4 to 5lug hat design but the balance may be changed by the bore thru to suit our billet stub axles (could only be improved if anything as it improves symmetry of the hat assembly/not negatively affected). Either way it's a simple step for any machinist, perhaps Dave's been accommodating such custom requests already. Be worth asking him either way as I know we have customers running this combo.

 

Sidebar on our 12mm stud switch from original 1/2" : by vast majority request our stub axles and aluminum hubs have had M12x1.5 ARP studs in them for some time now. The prior 1/2" studs required some wheels to be bored out before fitting as they're made to suit M12 studs (no Japanese wheels were suiting the 1/2"). These M12's are far more accommodating of present wheel choice's and the length was more suitable as few were using the excess length of the 1/2" studs we originally used. Our typical ARP M12's are just over 2" in length and we have a longer M12 option of 3"+ we utilize with the few using thick spacers and wheel centers that require the extra stud length. We've accomodated a few custom 1/2" requests (typically big Chevy pattern's) but vast majority favour the M12's.

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