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Could use some ideas (pics) for IC piping w BOV


Guest sabum

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Guest sabum

Hi guys! My welder is fabricating an NPR IC at this time. I have the large one with 2 3/4" openings. I am looking for ways to set the thing in the car and route the piping. I already have the 2 1/2" mandrel pipings. The welder is re-doing the drivers side inlet so the pipe can be run to the left side of the car straight. ( I kinda remember Scottie doing one like that awhile back)

 

It would be nice to see where blow off valves are located also. Could someone post some pictures to help assist the welder? If that is not appropriate you could E mail them to me.

 

Thanks so much.

 

 

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Guest bastaad525

here ya go:

 

635763_22_full.jpg

 

635763_8_full.jpg

 

note that I'm still using the stock cooling fan and even the stock 280zxt fan shroud... this stuff WILL fit if you want to use it.

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Guest bastaad525

If you look at wigenout-s30's pics that is exactly how mine is done except for obviously the placement of the BOV (his is probably better but I didnt' think I could fit it there) and that with mine, I used a 45 degree bend silicone coupler coming off of the throttle body, pointed down, which brought the whole I/C-to-Throttle body pipe down far enough to easily clear the radiator hose, stock fan and shroud, and distributor. The largish blue hose that is obscuring the view on mine is routing dumped air from the BOV back into the intake, between the afm and the turbo.

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Guest bastaad525

because originally I had intended to paint the car back to the original factory orange. At the time I did the motor swap, the car was still only primered. And anyways, as is always the case in my life, at the time I was short on time (this was my daily driver then) and short on money... to paint the engine bay would have taken a lot more work either removing or masking everything off. Remember, I didn't do the labor myself, I was paying someone else to do the swap. Again, since I had intended to paint the car back to orange, I didn't think it mattered. Later I realized it was probably going to be a LONNNNG time before I could afford to properly prep and paint the car the way I really want to do... especially considering the thing is so badly dinged up it needs a LOT of body work... however, the guy I had bought the car from had sanded a lot of the car down to bare metal, and I was worried that the primer wouldn't keep these areas from possibly rusting, so wanted to just get it painted ASAP to prevent rust. So I just went down to Earl Sheibb and got their $200 special... unfortunately in that price category the color selection was pretty limited, most of them sucked, IMO (great choices like a light grey ashy color, faded milky yellow color, and a metallic burgundy pinkish color... YICK), with the best being a dark green and the dark navy blue which I settled on.

 

Much of the car is still orange though, doorjambs, engine bay, exposed interior bits... and one day... ONE day... I'll paint it back that color again.

 

 

Funny thing is... orange is opposite of blue on the color wheel (anyone else remember this in school) and actually match very well. Think of the Unocal 76 logo.. the two colors just work well together. I know no one probably thinks the same as me on this, but IMO on my car the colors go together quite well....

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Guest sabum

Wiginout-s30 /// That is what I had in mind. At the turbo outlet it looks like you retained the factory black pipe and cut it. Is that correct? Is that a 2 1/4? I looked at mine and it looks like there is a special heat resistant coupler that I might not want to mess with.

 

Bastaad525 /// I hope this is not a stupid question however... Is it better to reroute the air back to the intake? I am shopping E bay right now to find a BOV and there are soooo many kinds. Greedy S keeps poping up.... Is that a good one?

 

PrOxLaMuS /// I am interested in some more pictures. Could you send them to me E-mail? I do not use IM's

 

Thanks All!

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Guest bastaad525

I'm running the stock black J-pipe, cut, as well. keep in mind if you go the way Wigenout went you wont be able to fit a fan shroud, for one... and I dunno about you but my car gets hot FAST in traffic if I run w/o one. You also may have a hard time getting around the stock fan, and past the distributor. Obviously from those pics it can be done, just is a little tight and makes things a little harder than they need to be. Use the 45* angle silicone coupler off the T/B like I did and you immediately drop those problems.

 

To answer your question, if you're running the stock EFI, then yes, you most likely will need to route the BOV's discharge back into the intake, between the turbo and the AFM. I think I have seen some people mention that there are certain adjustable BOV's you can use, that can be set up where you wouldn't have to do this. I'm running a stock BOV from a 1st gen Eclipse, which is not adjustable. The problem is the BOV likes to stay open any time you are not on boost... resulting in a huge vacuum leak and lean run condition when cruising, and then, when you are on boost and shift, and the air gets dumped to atmosphere, that is air that the AFM has already measured, and the EFI is going to supply fuel for... the result being, that every time you shift after boosting, you go WAY rich for a moment, usually getting a puff of black smoke and totally bogging the engine.

 

If you're not going to run the stock EFI you should have no problems running the BOV open, and again, supposedly there are some that can be adjusted to work with the stock EFI w/o those problems. But for the most part, yes with stock EFI you will HAVE to recirculate the discharge.

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Wiginout-s30 /// That is what I had in mind. At the turbo outlet it looks like you retained the factory black pipe and cut it. Is that correct? Is that a 2 1/4? I looked at mine and it looks like there is a special heat resistant coupler that I might not want to mess with.

 

Bastaad525 /// I hope this is not a stupid question however... Is it better to reroute the air back to the intake? I am shopping E bay right now to find a BOV and there are soooo many kinds. Greedy S keeps poping up.... Is that a good one?

 

PrOxLaMuS /// I am interested in some more pictures. Could you send them to me E-mail? I do not use IM's

 

Thanks All!

 

I had the stock J pipe but got a 90 from JC whitney.. It is 2" outside diameter.. as for the coupler at the turbo.. I used high quality Silicone connector as I have through out my system..

-- As for using electric fans with out the shroud.. I have zero problems about heating up.. Here in south Alabama.. summers are VERY hot. I have not had any overheating problems. I do have a turbo radiator though.. I hear they are alittle thicker then stock 240-280s.. Good luck with the intercooler pipeing

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Guest bastaad525

I think overheating is more likely, w/o the shroud, if you're using the stock belt driven fan (which I am). With a constant speed electric fan I wouldn't expect it to be a problem. If he wants to run an electric fan either way then yeah no reason NOT to do it the way you did it. Well there IS still the dizzy but it's not impossible to get around, as your pic shows :)

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Guest sabum

You guys have some really awesome looking setups! Welder said pictures will help. Thanks again.

 

I still am undecided on a BOV any ideas? Do I even need one? I do not have one installed now.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7965658475&fromMakeTrack=true

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7967864274&category=33742

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7967284936&category=33601

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Guest bastaad525

if you're running a turbo motor with the stock turbo manifold, you don't NEED a BOV or at least, not at lower boost levels. It has a built in dump valve that keeps the turbo from surging. Not sure what boost level the stock dump valve stops being effective enough, but if you're gonna run over 10psi, you should be running an I/C anyways, and if you're gonna run an I/C and custom make pipes, whether you NEED a BOV or not you might as well get one.

 

If you're like me and a few others here and swapped out or have removed all that 'junk' from your intake manifold, yes you absolutely NEED a BOV. There are a few horror stories floating around on the boards of guys who have run w/o a BOV and w/o the stock dump valve and very quickly killing the bearing on the turbo, even at stock boost. Compressor surge is VERY bad and very rough on a turbo.

 

Agreed, the Greddy Type S is one of the best units on the market today, but for the price I would (and did) choose to just go with the stock unit from a first gen eclipse/talon (the ubiquitous 1G DSM that Sparks mentioned). They are cheap, plentiful, and work FANTASTICALLY, and don't even look that bad. They have fantastic response time and can hold a lot of boost. Well worth the money... JY price would be like $20-30, I bought one that was all cleaned up off Ebay for $60.

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