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Fuel lines


Guest ON3GO

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Guest ON3GO

I just bought a RCI Fuel Cell for my blue Z, and im going to replace all the factory fuel lines.

reasons for this is safety, and plus the car will see lots of Racing and Car shows so i want to do this correct the 1st time.

i searched and found a few great posts, and even johnc had a great comment but i was confused abit so i thought i would ask.

 

im only running a 12 gallon fuel cell with a walbro 255lph fuel pump, Aeromotive FPR that has all S.S. braided lines from there to the JSK fuel rail.

I want to also install a good Aeromotive fuel filter and those are all -AN fitting threads.

 

Would Hardlines or S.S. Braided lines be better for my Z car?

if Hardlines then is there a brand or type i should get over the others?

what size? i was think 3/8th if hardline and 6 or 8 -AN for braided.

 

Car will see ALOT of auto-x's, Road Racing at TWS and Drag racing every weekend (no joke every weekend). I want to stay safe.

 

Thanks

 

Mike

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I can say from experience that unless you remove your drivetrane from the tranny back it is very hard to run hard lines in fasion similar to stock. You should also pic up a small hand held tubing bender if you want it to be right and it makes it easier. I would go with bradded if I had to do it again. Much easier, faster and are just as durable as aluminum lines, maybe not stainless but stainless are even harder to install then alum because it is harder to bend. Plan on spending $200-$300 just on fuel lines and fittings it ads up fast! Good luck.

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I would use -6 braided SS line. Easier to route and place. Don't have to worry about it like I would aluminum line. I have seen aluminum line used and it will work fine if installed correctly but that requires that it can't move any. _6 line will be plenty big for your application.

 

Mark

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Mike,

I went the stainless 3/8" hardline route, it wasn't that hard although it takes time to get it right. I used brake line from NAPA and brass couplers to get the correct length. At each end I went from the double flare normally used on brake lines to -6 AN and then 250 PSI rubber line to the tank and the fuel rail. It is much cheaper than stainless braid but also doesn't look as nice. I also ran the hardline in the same basic location as the original fuel lines which in a 240 is in the tunnel, if I did it over again I would relocate them to beside the frame rails, one on each side of the car.

 

Hope this helps. If you decide to go this route be sure to get a tubing bender and be careful using it, I partially kinked both lines at 90 degree bends and will eventually re do them.

 

Wheelman

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Guest ON3GO

i have a tube bender from snap on, i have no engine or trans mission in the car.

i have a lift and all the tools i need to do this correctly.

im trying to do this the best and smartest way i can.

 

mike

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Aluminum is much easier to work with!! Both to bend and to double flare. I used rubber covered 'P' clamps every foot or so to secure them. Stainless is nice, but a bear to flare.

Tim

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Guest ON3GO
Aluminum is much easier to work with!! Both to bend and to double flare. I used rubber covered 'P' clamps every foot or so to secure them. Stainless is nice' date=' but a bear to flare.

Tim[/quote']

thanks Tim, you said 100% dead on what Alex Costa just told me and im gonna go with Aluminum..

Alex told me that Russells Twist-lock is a great hose and fitting to use so ill go with that.

 

mike

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If you dont want to deal with the flaring and excess fittings there are an->compression fittings out there now.

 

I am going to replumb my car this weekend with hardline. I have also made up some aluminum barstock brackets to prevent any vibration related stress to the system.

 

Sam

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Guest 73Turbo240z

this must be what you were IM'ing me about huh, ditching the stock gas tank? cool how much will it run me to grab it from ya?

 

call my cell up cause i have work tonight. i need to come out to the shop anyway, i still have that turbo from the last party lol

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