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How many cubes should I go for in Turbo sbc?


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Ok, starting the turbo engine and was wondering how many cubes to build. Assuming that it ends up in the z of course. I was droooooooooooling over turbo meister's vid's and I wa, wa, want one! Chin wipe, I'm ok now.

 

I have a 4 bolt sbc block, .030, decked to 9.005, align honed, arp studs, ready to rock. Also have Manley 6 inch rods. I am looking at some wiseco dished pistons on EBAY for the 6 inch rod and 3.48 stroke, but I was wondering about the 383 as well. I have a gm steel 350 crank that'll go 10/10, but was considering going eagle 4340. Heads of course are AFR 220's, I like them.

 

Innovative turbo in Calif. has a twin turbo blow through setup that they claim is 750HP in a 350 at on pump gas, I think, but I don't know what pump gas, 91 or 93 or what engine details, sometimes these advertised figures can be misleading. Was thinking about that system or the Bucks, I mean Banks$$$$$. I talked to the innovative guys and they say that on alky I can get 850 out of that setup or alot more with more boost, which means upgraded turbo's, yada yada. The innovative kit is $3400 or so, but that doesn't include intake piping or intercooler, and they recommend intercooler.

 

Shoot me some thoughts from your years worth of experience and give me your advice, as long as it doesn't inlcude putting the turbo engine in your z.

 

Thanks,

 

David

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things to keep in mind,usually I suggest going with the largest displacement you can easily afford, but if your using a turbo several factors like head gasket sealing area and cooling are just as important, Id suggest using a 4 bolt 350 style block for the extra coolant flow between the cylinder walls and the extra head gasket seal area, but Id still point out that a 3.75" stroke (383) or even a 3.875" stroke crank(396) to increase the displacement has benefits. youll have a faster building torque curve due to the larger displacement, and you won,t need to spin it as high before the boost cuts in, or your making significant power, remember that valve train control problems can kill an engine and most valve train control problems can be minimized if you stay under about 6500rpm, and its far more comon to have lower end problems at high rpms than lower in the rpm range. pay a good deal of attention to building a well thought thru OIL CONTROL STATEM with a baffled high capacity oil pan,windage tray/screen and SYNTHETIC OIL

 

you want turbo info? this will get you started

 

http://www.turbofast.com.au/javacalc.html

 

http://www.racetep.com/size.html

 

http://www.airflowresearch.com/

(articles)-(1000 HP 383 ci AFR 210 cc )

 

http://www.turbomustangs.com/turbotech/main.htm

 

http://www.montygwilliams.com/

 

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compression.htm

 

http://www.turbofast.com.au/TFcompB.html

 

http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/turbochargers.pdf

 

http://www.turbocharged.com/main.htm

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Well, funds are an issue, I mean I don't want to have 20k in motor alone. but was thinking of basic long block, efi or carb, turbo system, and HP level that'd be usable in the z, I was figuring about 10K. Always can control hp with wastegates and rpm to match what I can hook up.

 

Thanks for the info.

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Shoot me some thoughts from your years worth of experience and give me your advice

 

David,

I don't know how much power you want this engine to develop and how much you will be able to put to the ground, but you might think about my experiences.

I can't afford to replace my current rotating assembly but I learned the hard way that it would have been best to buy short connecting rods and tall pistons. The top ring land should have as much material as possible for the extra strength needed to ward off detonation, high cylinder pressure and high temperatures at the piston crown. Since you need to run less compression ratio with a turbo engine, the piston dish and valve reliefs reduce the crown thickness as compared to a flat top piston. Then a stroker crank, or 6" rods, or both reduce the compression height of the piston and require oil ring support rails because the wristpin intrudes into the oilring groove.

 

Yes, I've lost some pistons while I was figuring out the timing and fuel supply issues and it was always at the same point where the top ringland was thinnest due to the valve relief and dish.

If I had to do it over again I would build a 350 c.i. engine with 5.7" rod and the heaviest pistons I could find. Ok, so I would lose some rpm due to the weight. And less displacement of the 383 would be a factor, but longevity would be better.

Besides, I could just crank up the boost a little and make up the power.

Of course, an intercooler and fresh air to the turbos would also help.

Unless you are wealthy, building our Z's will always be frought with compromises. So I have what I have and I'm enjoying it.

Good luck with your project. I'm excited to see more members considering V8 turbo installations.

Hanns

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If and when (notice i say when) i loose my rb26 to damage beyond repair My t88-34D will be going on some sort of budget v-8. And it will more then likely make as much maybe more power then the rb :>

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Thanks turbo meister, that's the kind of experience and feedback I was looking for.

 

HP, well, that's adjustable. What drives me to this combination is streetablility vs all motor combinations that have little street manners for the high hp versions anyway. Did I wipe my chin?

 

Yup, the available power under boost is alluring to say the least, but the docile street manners is what I'm looking for so I can make it a street ride as well. Ditto for the Monte SS as well. If I can get one to work, I'll build another.

 

What kind of bumpstick, roller, hyd, hyd roller, or solid? considering dual purpose strip/street?

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What kind of bumpstick, roller, hyd, hyd roller, or solid? considering dual purpose strip/street?

David,

I've got a solid roller cam that is done at 6800 rpm, but I shift at 6500. It is not radical (242 duration with 114 LSA). Idle is 12 inches of hg and cruise is 18 inches. At the recent MSA Z Car Show, it idled and inched along for 30 minutes like a stocker. Even though my carb is set up on the rich side there is no black smoke from my exhaust. And during that 30 minutes of idling I didn't see the occupants of the car behind me gasping for air. Since I don't rev the engine past 6500 rpm I could have used a hydraulic cam as well.

I never even notice that the turbos are there until I floor it.:-D

Hanns

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I have a buddy that has a procharger on his car, he says to go with 5.7 rods, 350 cubes and TRW blower pistons also like Turbo meister. He's been through Probe, Arias, JE's and BRC pistons and lost them all. The TRW's have held up for 3 years now doing nothing but drag racing every weekend. He says they are heavy but bullet proof.

 

I found some on ebay today, I'm watching those. Selling my Manley rods, sorry, couldn't find out how to post a classified. Going to buy some Eagle rods with the L19 bolt upgrade, use the 4 bolt 350 block I have, top it with some AFR 220 heads and I was looking for a solid roller cam for the thing.

 

Doesn't take alot of cam, but I want the 4-7 swap cam in this motor.

 

Turbo meister, 6500 is pleanty of rpm for me. Actually I like to keep them around 6K.

 

Also take a look at C&S specialties, do a google search, they have a blow through carb for gas and alky that they claim you can make the power sans intercooler, especially with the alky carb just like your setup. Work it baby, would sure save alot of intake plumbing.

 

I might be a meister clone, but I like to haul butt, what can I say. Shoot me. Besides, I'm still drooling and itchin' to get more hp.

 

The z hooks good, goes straight, what else can you ask for.

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Also take a look at C&S specialties, do a google search, they have a blow through carb for gas and alky that they claim you can make the power sans intercooler, especially with the alky carb just like your setup.

Thanks for the info, I'll keep it in mind. Currently, the Z is making more than enough power for me (for now).:)

Hanns

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Guest crazycustom240z

I have a sbc 400 that I want to destroke to a 377 and use a big 80mm turbo with a blow through carburation system unitl i graduate college with an electronics degree. After that or while in school I want to build my own fuel injection system who knows what will happen but I figured out I should be able to get about 850 hp with a solid roller setup and some good heads for under 5grand.

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Yo, They say everything has it's price, If I hit the lotto, my first purchase will be a certain red Z... Turbomeister, hint, hint. We NEED more vids, Mr. T,M. crappy or not, we want em'. I think we can all agree, Hanns is da' man.

Good luck on your continued success, Mr. Hanns.

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Yo We NEED more vids, Mr. T,M. crappy or not, we want em'.

 

I don't want to subject everybody here to more of the same videos.:icon7:

However, I will make a DVD which will include some of my slower 10 second runs in the quarter mile and the 1/8th mile runs that are already posted. If you are also interested I will include some video of the Z being worked on before fitting the turbos. PM your suggestions and address and give me a few days to get it done.

Hanns

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