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cover over spark plug ?


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This is kind of a gay question but.......

The cover that sits over the spark plugs, on some it says: "twin cam", others: "skyline GTR".

Is there a difference in motor, or is this just a cool cover that you can buy. All of the skyline motors that i have seen for sale do not have the gtr cover.

 

Thanks,

Andrew

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This is kind of a gay question but.......

The cover that sits over the spark plugs' date=' on some it says: "twin cam", others: "skyline GTR".

Is there a difference in motor, or is this just a cool cover that you can buy. All of the skyline motors that i have seen for sale do not have the gtr cover.

 

Thanks,

Andrew[/quote']

 

Most probably because the skyline motors you are looking at wont be from the RB26dett powered GTR's! they will be the RB25det from the GTS-T etc.

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Guest PROJECTRB240SX

Do You Guys Have Coil Over Heat Issues In This Chassis? A Few Of The Guys That Did The S13/s14 Chassis Rb Swaps Would Have Coil Over Heat Issues (from Trapped Heat) And Would Cut Out (or Slot It) The Plug Cover To Get Some Venting In There.... I Know This Is Kind Of Off Topic But I Just Thought I'd Bring It Up Before Some One Buys A Snazzy Cover And Has The Same Problem.

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Guest JAMIE T

I've not heard of needing to vent the the plug valley cover on these cars, but it wouldn't hurt by any means. I cut the back out of mine. Basically just the panel that the resistor pack attaches to. I'm using standalone and did not need that function. I did it to be able to use the snazzy SKYLINE GT-R cover I got with my motor from Stony. It came off his race engine. I just wanted a clear path for the plug wires. It's sorta vented.

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I may be wrong but im pretty sure the R34 motor came stock with teh cover and teh GTR emblem. this is pre r-24 cover.

 

masa9014-img600x450-1120572463cimg1608.jpg

 

here is a asetup with a custom after maket emblem

 

k1744y1969-img600x450-1119716650rb26-01.jpg

 

here is a set of NUR spec covers, judging by the price they are replicas and not the real thing. I dont know that there is any difference from real to fake other then the real ones are usually like 5-600 bucks. these are stock color and emblem

ps133540-img600x450-1087875528dscf0086.jpg

 

to my knowledge there was never a blue color valve cover setup that was stock./

ps133540-img600x450-1114470676dscf0452.jpg

 

Stock r-34 motor.

 

kp39publica-img600x450-1119097590dsc01110.jpg

 

 

R-32 adn R-33 all came looking like this stock.

 

kamehameha86jp-img600x450-1120457532rb262.jpg

 

If anyone would like to save these pics do so now... these are yahoo auction linke and they wont last for long. i will do it later no time now....

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Guest PROJECTRB240SX

Have You Ever Had Coil Overheat Issues Stony Running That Kind Of Power? I Know In The Cramped Engine Bays Of The S13 Chassis Under Hood Temps Would Surpass 250 Degrees On Hot Days... I Know Because We Measured Mine. I Had Two Coils Go Bad At Around That Temp Until I Vented The Plug Cover And Popped The Hood Up For A Makeshift Cowl Induction.

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I ran SDS on my old motor which eliminated the COP things. My new motor was run in okinawa where summer temps sopmetimes exceed 90 degrees. to tell you the truth this is the first time i have ever heard of heat killing the coils. i imagine it couldnt hurt venting the cover... i just think the motor looks way to cool with it installed

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Thanks Guys! Stony' date=' those are some good pics! So basicaly the cover is what sets off the difference between R-32,33's & R-34's!

 

Thanks Again,

Andrew[/quote']

 

No not really, they are basically all interchangable. but if you have stock valve cover you can tell what motor they came from by the color.

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Have You Ever Had Coil Overheat Issues Stony Running That Kind Of Power? I Know In The Cramped Engine Bays Of The S13 Chassis Under Hood Temps Would Surpass 250 Degrees On Hot Days... I Know Because We Measured Mine. I Had Two Coils Go Bad At Around That Temp Until I Vented The Plug Cover And Popped The Hood Up For A Makeshift Cowl Induction.

 

You see a lot of the skyline guys out here (NZ) running modified/custom covers with holes etc, or no cover at all, and they talk about the trapped heat killing the coils. Many end up going away from the direct coil system.

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The problem isn't with the coils actually "dying" (they do die, but venting them isn't going to fix the problem of cheaply made stock coils). With heat comes resistance. As the resistance increases in the coils, it takes longer for them to charge. In a high boost, high rpm engine, the coils may reach a point where the charge is not sufficient for the spark to jump the plug-gap and it will mis-fire. As the cylinder pressure increases, it takes more voltage to jump the gap. As the rpm's increase, the charge time between firing decreases. Say the engine is operating at a cylinder pressure that is taking 30,000 volts to jump the spark-gap, and the coils are just making it to the 30,000 volts at a given RPM. If the rpm increases and the available charge time limits the coils to 29,999 volts, there will be no spark in that cylinder and ignition probability will be zero. If the heat increases in the coil, it will have a no-fire at lower and lower rpm's for the same given engine load. Hope this helps.

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Guest PROJECTRB240SX

The Problem I Was Running Into Would Be The Coil Would Get Hot.... The Insulation Would Expand And Break The Windings. So When Its Cold The Coil Fires Fine But Once You Get The Coils Temp To About 160 Degrees After The Overheat It Would Stop Firing Or Be Intermitant With Vibration.

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Guest PROJECTRB240SX

I Truely Think Those Coils Have A Limit Temperature They Can Survive In Until They Either Break Or Stop Operating.... I Know When My Underhood Temps Would Reach 250+ Degrees Coils Would Start Dropping. These Coils Would Be About 280 Degrees, Almost Too Hot To Handle Even With Mechanix Gloves.

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The problem isn't with the coils actually "dying" (they do die, but venting them isn't going to fix the problem of cheaply made stock coils). With heat comes resistance. As the resistance increases in the coils, it takes longer for them to charge. In a high boost, high rpm engine, the coils may reach a point where the charge is not sufficient for the spark to jump the plug-gap and it will mis-fire. As the cylinder pressure increases, it takes more voltage to jump the gap. As the rpm's increase, the charge time between firing decreases. Say the engine is operating at a cylinder pressure that is taking 30,000 volts to jump the spark-gap, and the coils are just making it to the 30,000 volts at a given RPM. If the rpm increases and the available charge time limits the coils to 29,999 volts, there will be no spark in that cylinder and ignition probability will be zero. If the heat increases in the coil, it will have a no-fire at lower and lower rpm's for the same given engine load. Hope this helps.

 

Are the splitfire coil packs for the rb motors any better then stock. or are they just a difffernt color with a splitfire logo?

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I was reading a thread on this a while back. According to Sean Morris at RB Motoring, the Splitfire coils do not make a big difference. Apparently the best thing to do is use a booster such as an HKS Twin Power. As for the plug covers, Stony is correct in that the R34 was the only one that was different from the factory, at least on regular production cars. Nismo offered an S1 and an R1 version that had special cover emblems and different colored valve covers. The S1 had a flat black (as opposed to the stock gloss black) and the R1 had a darker red than the R34 with a matching red intake plenum. The only blue valve covers came from Tomei with one of their Renisis engines. These also had custom emblems. I have seen some of these Tomei emblems for sale in Japan for just under $100. There are also some from Tommy Kaira, a Japanese tuner. I ordered an HKS one a while back. Apparently they have been discontinued, but some are still floating around. I can try to post a picture if anyone is interested.

Brian

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ok, so why would one want the r-34 over the r-33??

I know that the oil pump problem i have been reading about has been fixed on the 33, so the only difference would be that is has about 30 more hp?? and this seems like it would be because of a different ecu. correct??

 

Thanks,

Andrew

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