fear_me

was just thinking, how about a shift register? there has to be one that will work for him. ~Andrew

The 555 timer is easy here is an example: If you had a plc i could do it easly..... else this will take some thinking. mikeatripi is on the right page i think you will need some type of counter.... hmmm, like a segment counter.. then just use the outputs to trigger trans. and when the number is say 4 it can be reset.... interesting idea... just needs some thinking. ~Andrew

ok, that is not even right! i got 14's with my specv with simple bolt ons..... poor poor car ~Andrew

http://krang.superstreetonline.com/features/1971_datsun_240z_classic_import_car_wallpaper_1280x1024.jpg http://krang.superstreetonline.com/features/1971_datsun_240z_classic_import_car_wallpaper_2_1280x1024.jpg

why not both???? http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-12760_7-9672294-5.html little expensive, but they will come down after christmas ~Andrew

Here is a thought, what about o-ringing the block? I have read on here that a couple people have done this, it will help keep the head gasket in place. Anybody try doing this as a fix for this problem? ~Andrew

another option: http://www.arizonazcar.com/coil.html ~Andrew

"his z" damn this board is getting full of wisconsin people! where are you getting it blasted again? ~Andrew

from that post i got saw this from braap: Since i will be at .025" i am good, closer would be better but i am good. Thanks guys, maybe the title should be change to ross guy not knowing what he was talking about ~Andrew

sorry i had wrong information in my last post, my deck hieght will be .63mm, with a head gasket of 1.27mm this will leave me .64mm or .025" which if it is good to have .015 then i have a little bit of a breathing room it looks like. I will call wiesco and try to talk to someone else from there and see what they say. Thanks for the help ~Andrew

With my setup it would have put my piston at .063mm above and i told him that my gasket was 1.27mm he did say wow that was a thick gasket but still that it should never go above the deck. So one of the reason that this is ok is because we have such a thick head gasket and it will help in quench. I also told him this would be a turbo and was asking why i was staying with such a low comp... i was told the guys now a days are running around 9 to 1 with turbo! but they only wanted 577 for the pistons, 158 for the rings, and 60 some for the pins. he told me no need to go with special pins cause my 15psi is not that extreme.... should i ask for someone else, or try a different company? ~Andrew

alright, i have fond information on here that i feel is a little bit misleading. this means that the piston will be above the deck 0.15", correct? I was just talking to the tech line at Ross and i was told that you do not want to be above the deck, you want to be even with it. Only if the head was couter bored, meaning it hade a 87mm cicle cut into it, then we would go above the deck. for those that don't know i was looking to do: f54 block =207.87 height f54block = 87mm bore vo7 crank =83mm stroke l24rods = 133mm length piston = 34mm pin height = 8cc dish this equals 8.5 to 1 comp. Now the gentleman that i talked to said the pin height should be 33.38 and use a flat top piston with a 3cc valve relive cut into them. So my question is why does the piston need to stick above the block? and why does the guy that deals with pistons for a living say different? ~Andrew

i am looking at this cause you get everything you need, no need to section your strut so you don't have to make sure its straight even thought that would not be hard. the shock is rebuildable from my understanding. and it is all from one suplier, so if there is a problem you only have to call one number, that i think is very nice. ~Andrew

thats looks good and beefy! are you going to blast it yourself? and who is the one doing burnouts on your floor? ~Andrew

this is just so funny to me! ~Andrew

ok, i will take another look. once i seen a lot of "dissing" i just started to skim though it. i think that anybody might have done the same thing cause i just hate reading the "my opinion is way better then your cause i said so!" ~Andrew

i can't find where i put the quote that he gave me for the blasting, but give him a call he was very helpfull over the phone and he even has a painting guy that he uses. the painter and i can't find his infor either said he would be willing to just shoot the primer and when i got done with the sheet metal repair he would take the car back and put the rest of the paint on without a problem. ~Andrew

lol, that i guess is my fault, that price is from tech toy tuning and it did not say if it was for all 4 or not so i just assumed. and i guess is true on what they say when you assume. I am just trying to cover my options, i am building this car for drag, cause i got sucked into that. but would love to try the track days at the local road course sometime. ~Andrew

I have a question, it seem like going with this brand is a no brainer when it comes to price if you wanted a coil over sus. for example if azzcar wants $1600 for springs, adjustable shocks, and camber plates for all 4 corners. and unless i am looking in the wrong place but universal coil overs go for $399 a piece without shcoks or camber plates! = 1596 without all of the other needed stuff. So why would i NOT buy this kit? and why are there not many people who have this kit? ~Andrew

ha ha, what power steering pump? i know mine still does not have one. Thanks for the info, i am in the process of making a stroker turbo and i was just thinking of added security of not having any problems with the motor. I read that big thread about it that was made in 05 and after a couple of posts there was some flaming going on and not much info. so i just figured i would ask a couple of years later if people swayed to this product or left it alone. ~Andrew

I would like to recomend a book: Maximum boost by corky bell. I think almost everyone on here would agree that it is a very good book with lots of information to help you get started. ~Andrew

I have to agree with panachedk.. where and what number can i call? One place that i found was realy cheap was a company called Strip It. Tim from there was very helpfull at answering my questions said he would sanblast the engine bay and underside, then media blast the body so it does not warp the metal. if you want you can get a hold of him at: 920-285-2883 again it was tim. Good luck on the project. ~Andrew

If you are talking about when it goes into the fender, mine was stuck to the seam sealer. I had to try and get my hand in there and pry up on the harnes as much as i could, then i just gave it a good yank. So no cable ties. ~Andrew

Also how many people are running the stock vs something like this? Link: http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt43033/pd858282 i found a couple of posts that talk about it being bad/good, one that was started in 05. Just actualy wondering if it is worth it all and how many people are actual using them ~Andrew

Make it an air horn! ~Andrew