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launching with air under the front tires


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I`ve recently noticed 3 hybridz cars maybe more launching with the front tires hanging ( I forget the technical term) two of these cars have the irs system still in use. Needless to say I am blown away by this and would like to also achieve this in my own car.

 

This winter I`m already planning on a cam change but am unsure if I should go with a 10" converter or putting the Richmond super T10 out of my nova into the z since It will be laying around during resteration anyway.

 

Also I`m planning on welding one of the two rears I have a 3:54 or 3:90

 

And thinking of experimenting with NOS also 125-150 shot.

 

I`m a little conflicted right now because I just found a local AutoX club that I would also like to try but I know the welded rear and 10" stall wouldn`t allow me to perticapate in this but the 4sp would. Although I still have my stock 240z to do the AutoX but the v8 one would be more fun.

 

Any ideas on a well rounded car that can do wheel stands off the line in the 1/4?

 

Mark

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Hmmm, not sure which Zs you are referring to but the ones I can think of have a solid rear. It takes a lot of torque to do that and unless you have Ross' billet stub, that might the weak point that prevents it from happening, more than once :D. I did it, barely, but that was with the complete C4 IRS, 3" steel axles, and flashing the converter to 46-4800 RPMs on the transbrake. I cringe thinking about doing that on anything but an R230 and custom/billet Z parts.

 

Unless you are looking to please the crowd or yourself, I would build the car to avoid doing that.

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How the heck are you cutting 1.50's 60 ft. in your Z with 235/60-15 drag radials? I cannot get better than 1.70's with mine. Its not like I am under powered.

 

Mike

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No wheelie story, but how soon we forget. See below. 1fastZ ran 9.71@147, NOSz350 9.28 @153. Two of our fastest members used STOCK R200s. Thats with U joints, boys. If my math is correct more than 750 hp! I recall 1fastz started blowing his with abusive shots of nitrous. This isn't saying they lasted forever, but the fact that they could pull those times at all on a stock rear is amazing. I know the solid axle is stronger and safer, and yeah I hear the stories of all the blown rears with stock L6s, but minimize your rear squat, the binding angles and u joints are pretty damn strong. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=68008

John

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z-fan The 235/60/15 drag radials always worked out ok for me. I later used 275/40/17 with alot of 1.5 60' times and this was with the stiff coil over setup.

 

1fastZ car, That was my old car that I sold to Dean. Just a basic build 383 with 225 conquest heads. I sold the car when I moved to California, It was a 280z and smog was a problem. I broke a few u-joints in that car, and a few r200 rear ends. This was not a safe rear end setup at all. dean went through many rear ends after he bought it also.

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No wheelie story' date=' but how soon we forget. See below. 1fastZ ran 9.71@147, NOSz350 9.28 @153. Two of our fastest members used STOCK R200s. Thats with U joints, boys. If my math is correct more than 750 hp!

 

John[/quote']

Absolutely, those guys were flying. BUT,......lets not give the impression that is the way to go for a 9-sec Z. 1 fast Z openly admitted he did not launch the car hard and broke A LOT of rear end parts and 1.50s - 1.60s is a little "lazy" for a 9-sec car.

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Absolutely, those guys were flying. BUT,......lets not give the impression that is the way to go for a 9-sec Z. 1 fast Z openly admitted he did not launch the car hard and broke A LOT of rear end parts and 1.50s - 1.60s is a little "lazy" for a 9-sec car.

 

Or a 10 second car. I hoped I worded that further into my post well enough not to appear to be recommending the stock 200 for a 9 second car, just that it was amazing how the stock rear was holding at these extreme levels. Anyone remember Nosz 350's 60'? His old video looked like the front tires were still touching, barely. John

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I'm sure they may hold up, but holding up to the extreme power for how long and at what cost? I'd venture to say that they've been through more $$$ in R200's, drivelines, Stub's, half shafts, CV's and the like than they could have spent on a solid axle conversion done right the first time. Don't want to sound off kelter here but I think it's a safety issue for yourself and those who are racing with you as much as anything else. Heaven forbid if one were to let go while you were playing on the street, leaving "junk" on the road for someone else to "find" that was coming behind you. I left a drive shaft spinning on the road before, lost it at over 100mph while "playing", only to have a buddy in his car that I just smoked come along and hit it, blowing out 2 tires and puncturing the gas tank on his '77 TA. Wonder he didn't wreck, instead it was costly.

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Well, when your lifting the front tires then energy that could be moving the car forward is translated into non forward motion, so in essence, your 60 foots are not what they could be if the front end stays on the ground.

 

But it is a rush to not be able to see the track, even if it is only for an instant, not to mention the crowd appeal and the WOW factor!

 

I do think there is a limit though.

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Thanks for the replys to the thread, I decided i`m just going to shoot for the 10`s ...and 9`s on NOS every now and then.

 

Since my track strickly follows the NHRA rules, I would have to change to a solid rear the faster I went, so I`m just going to bite the bullet and change over. I love the IRS system, I think it`s what gives the car one of it`s many charms, but for safety sake there`s just too many things that could go wrong for a system that wasn`t designed for 1/4 mile abuse, even though it`s stout enough to handle the power.

 

One positive note is, I`ll feel more confident launching wheel stands with a solid rear backing me up, and if I do put in my 4sp setup I think a 9" has a better chance of holding up to the shock factor.

 

Mark

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The research I did on the 8.8 before i decided to go with it is that it will hold what ever i can throw at it. Of course it's fully welded and braced with 33 spline axles, a spool and a heavy duty diff cover with cap screws. This same type rearend I have seen in full body mustangs running in the 8s. The 8.8 robs less power then the 9 inch.....and when it comes to the Z application... well at least mine it was allot easier and left me with more tune ability then the 9 inch. The housing on the nine inch would have put the 4 link bars out wider limiting.... in the end..... My leg room in the car.

 

As for getting the front wheel off the ground with the IRS....From experience....the r200, cv axles, and stub shafts are your weak link when it comes to big power. if your running a clutch that will make it worse. At least an auto will somewhat load the rear-end and not be such a sudden shock. At any rate if your going to invest the money to go that fast put a solid rearend in the car it will save you money in the long run. Unless someone comes up with a strut housing that will accommodate 33 spline axles/stubs and an r230 or bigger diff.

 

Just my 2 cents

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I may be wrong but the stiffer the spring the less squat you will have and this will also transfer more of a load on to all of the weak parts.

 

I had 500LB springs on the rear of mine with a stock gtr clutch and hi air press in the tires. got lots of tire spin ( still managed a couple 1.6 60 ft times) and that really was the only thing that saved mine rearend for a year plus. Once i replaced the clutch with a more heavy duty unit and messed with tire pressures to get more traction my rearend started to break. first u joints, so i upgraged to custom cromoly cv axles then it moved to stub shafts. i modded the strut to accept Z31 (larger) stubs and still broke these. I gave up and went solid rear end :> only way to fix IMHO

 

Stony

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