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where would i get something like this!


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Front_strut.JPG

 

found that in "Magic's" members picture gallery here on this site.

from the welds it looks like its custom made, but even still how would one go about making something like that? it says its for his 240Z.

 

im all ears to find away to make a set for my Z's, as i think that would be pretty cool and fun.

 

mike

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There are only two remote can setups for 240Zs that I'm aware of. The first was by now defunct ShockTek and it was installed on exactly two cars: Jim Thompson's ITS 240Z and Chet Whittle's ITS 240Z. I worked with EMI Racing and developed a Penske 8760 triple adjustable remote can setup for my 240Z which would cost about $9,500 to replicate. My setup is now part of yet another 240Z "science experiment" (not mine) where the goal is 400 naturally aspirated horsepower and 315/30-18 tires all around.

 

I don't know what's in the picture above but there's obviously a third setup. Pretty much anything that exists is completely custom.

 

EDIT: I forgot to answer the question of why...

 

Remote reservoir dampers allow a larger pressurized oil volume which maintains consistent damping over a longer period.

 

Pressurization allows another level of adjustability.

 

An additional piston (compression piston) is installed in the reservior to allow more compresison valving options.

 

By moving the compression pistong into the can more travel can be packaged into a shorter damper.

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so the best idea would be to contact Penske and the other company ShockTek (thats what its called ?)..

 

Nope. ShockTek is out of business and you need to contact me if you want to have a set of Penskes built. You have options with the Penskes regarding double or triple adjustable.

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When you decide to go with very sophsticated dampers it affects a lot of other suspension decisions. For example: If your valving has separate low and high speed circuits for compression and rebound you can almost eliminate anti-roll bars. Also, tire sidewall height can be reduced if the damper and its valving are more responsive and subtle. With the damper bodies also acting as the strut tube you can go with smaller diameter springs (2.25" OD is typical and 2" is possible) saving weight and adding room for wheel backspace.

 

Other decisions affected by damper choice:

 

Limited slip type and/or preload.

Gearing.

Wheel and tire combination.

Aero.

Spring rate.

Overall balance.

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well John, question.

 

will i need to get every other part on the suspension custom built and as advanced as these struts? or will off the shelf sways, end links, bushings, and big brake kits and etc balance out the car fine with a very advanced strut package like these.

 

sorry if i dont make any sense.

 

mike

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will i need to get every other part on the suspension custom built and as advanced as these struts? or will off the shelf sways, end links, bushings, and big brake kits and etc balance out the car fine with a very advanced strut package like these.

 

It all comes down to your goals for the car you're building.

 

Regarding springs and anti-roll bars, they need to be tuned to work with the dampers, tires, etc. If off the shelf stuff allows enough tuning granularity then they can work just fine.

 

For example: I ran a non adjustable ST 19mm rear anti-roll bar but the mounts and end links were modified to reduce bind. In the front I would switch between a 23mm OEM and a ST 25mm anti-roll bar in custom mounts depending what I wanted the car to do at the track.

 

So, I used off the shelf and OEM parts but through a lot of testing and tuning I modified how they were installed on the car.

 

BTW... you can get most of the benefits of the Penskes by installing Koni 8611 double adjsutables at about $1,200 for all 4. Getting to the compression adjustment is a bit difficult on the front but it can be done.

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BTW... you can get most of the benefits of the Penskes by installing Koni 8611 double adjsutables at about $1,200 for all 4. Getting to the compression adjustment is a bit difficult on the front but it can be done.

 

Another option is the ground control AD (advanced design) dampers that I use. Probably not as good as Penske or Ohlins but my chassis isn't sophisticated enough to make use of them. I belive they are $399 per corner and have the two adjusters on top. I wasn't that big a fan at first but I had them revalved and really love them now. I run springs rates in the 400 to 600 range on car running on slicks.

 

Unless you have done a lot of work to arrive at a balanced setup these dampers won't do you a lot of good. They don't magically make you faster. They are a fine tuning, icing on the cake, kind of deal.

 

I found that when I got everything spot on that I could notice a small change in tire pressure (half pound). And once to this level the dampers can make noticeable changes in how the car works.

 

I'm an autocrosser and part of the battle that I have is limited time to change the setup of the car between runs. Having adjustable shocks can be an advantage. Up to this point I've been using a fairly standard sway bar like John mentions. Ideally I'd love to make it driver adjustable for when I need to make a large change between runs. Half the battle in having adjustments is knowing what to adjust and the other half is being able to adjust it with minimal work in a timeframe that actually helps you.

 

Cary

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