Guest JAMIE T Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 Well, I FINALLY got around STARTING my R230 install. I have lost sleep many nights over this. I have thought about the design for months. Now, I feel like I'm ready to start it. This is in conjunction with my 300ZXTT/Q45 hubs and new control arms. If I was just installing the diff and using the Ross' adapters, I could have foregone all this headache. But since I have more skills than money, I decided to build it this way. From top to bottom... 1-The beginnings of my completely new rear suspension and diff. 2-The first piece of what will be new control arms and the bracket that will hold them. 3-Installed in the car. Here you can see that it is kicked out to provide clearance for the huge diff. It is spaced with washers, but I'll make a permanent spacer from aluminum. I'm also going to add attachment points to it to pick-up the original up-right mounts. The whole piece is surprisingly light. I was able to hold it up with one hand while getting the nuts started. 4-Using the original rear saddles to clamp the front in-place. I have jacked the diff into place and the axle flanges are very close to the 1-1/4" tubes running to the front. I'm going to notch the frame like Speeder did so I can raise the diff alot. Another reason I chose to come out the back with my carrier. My car will be what we consider "Severly lowered". So, that will help get the axles up also to keep the angle at a minimum. I fully intend on launching the car on full drag slicks from a very high rpm. With a stick shift and triple disc clutch(and 600+RWHP). I will take a few lessons learned by others and secure the front of the diff very well. My control arms are going to differ from other designs in that they will ride on heims on the inner and outer pick-ups. No bushings for me, thank you. They will obviously be fully adjustable. I'm not going to get hung-up on making them too trick, just fully functional and strong. The hub/strut housing will also be specific to the control arms. I'm building a complete system. I'm sticking with the Zcar "style" strut and arm for this project. I considered building a double A arm or C4 corvette style suspension for this, but funds and the thought that others might want to duplicate(or purchase from me) a set-up just like it forced me to go this route. I would have to basically "back-half" the car to make anything else fit. If anyone wants to make suggestions or tell me I'm full of crap for making it this way, please do so. Thanks guys! You've all been a huge help to this point! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 Oh, I forgot to add that I'm supporting the diff entirely from the top and rear. I need as much room for the 4" exhaust as possible. Especially since the car will be so low. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 Looks very good so far Jamie. I can’t wait to see the finished assembly. You and your little secret shop-o-tricks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeder Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 Sweet! I wish you had done yours first so I could have copped your design! I had originally planned to do similar (eliminate the M-bar and build a subframe for tubular heim-jointed LCAs that incorporates the front diff mount), but wimped out and took an easier route. I'll be watching this, Jamie - Excellent design and execution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 Nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 BASTARDO... Looks good as always. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBeaut Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 Lookin' good Jamie. One of these days I'll actually get some more work done on my subframe design again. I do like your idea of running the control arms with rose joints of a fixed beam. I'm just going with common old Arizona Z arms So I've got to run separate fore-aft beams which is a bit of a pain. Just waiting for the local machine shop to get my new front cross member sorted and then maybe I'll be in business again. Also heard from the other machine shop that's working on my 300ZX hub conversion last week. Popped down to see how they were doing with machining the old hub area. Looks like they didn't pay too much attention to my plans and have removed too much metal. Might still be able to build it back up with cunning welding though. Ho hum Cheers, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 Rob, If you haven't bought your arms yet, I suggest looking at Ross' design. I've installed the AZC arms and they are an absolute bitch. They are well made and very functional, but are a BEAR to adjust. Just my $.02! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBeaut Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 Rob' date=' If you haven't bought your arms yet, I suggest looking at Ross' design. I've installed the AZC arms and they are an absolute bitch. They are well made and very functional, but are a BEAR to adjust. Just my $.02! Mike[/quote'] Tooooooo late! Shiny bits of metal are living in my office as I type. How come you had problems with them? If it helps I'm not planning on running a rear anti-roll bar - at least for a while. Cheers, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 We had problems with them binding on install... couldn't get them to line up to the strut housings... It was very difficult. Every time you have to adjust them for anything BUT toe, you have to pull the spindle bolt and thread in or out the heim joints... It was quite difficult with THREE men on the arm and strut assembly to get them to work. HOURS were required to install and then adjust them. We also didn't use a rear swaybar. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 Well, mine will have some adjustment. I think I have figured out a way to adjust the toe without dropping the arm. And, dropping the arm will be very easy anyway. I hope to get this buttoned up this week so we'll see how it goes. it's hard to explain, so I'll just post pics when I'm closer. I've spent a long time thinking about this, so I don't have to wing it as I build it. Mostly just measuring twice and cutting once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 Jamie, Very interesting! The problem with mine was that I was limited with the size of the front to rear support braces because there is a small amount of space between the rear and the A-arms. Your way where the a-arm supports are part of the entire brace fixes the problem. I think you mention this but definitely weld brackets on your brace that will bolt into the stock vehicle vertical supports that usually hold the rear a-arm supports to give your brace more strength in the middle. The one thing that will be interesting is how the rear bolts of the rear will go through the frame supports, since the bolts are only anbout 1" long. Do you think the single layer of the brace will be strong enough to hold the rear... I think that may need some more support strength. As far as making a clearance for your front to rear braces for the axles and notching the upper frame support.... consider making your vertical supports a little longer so your rear a-arms brace on a little lower so you have the clearance. Since you have your own creation and you are making all of the supports you don't have to follow the same rules I notched my frame and moved up my rear also for clearances and having the rear a little higher probably helps the strength on hard squatty launches but there should be no problem with the rear a-arm support being slightly lower for all of your axle clearances. I am likeing your design!!! As far as the front of the rear brackets, make sure the supports are strong and tied into the stock strap bracket holes. I bent my front to rear support on hard launches and had to bend them back and weld braces to the strap brackets. One more thought I have with your custom design... mine requires me to pull the entire rear out to open the drain plug. Yours may allow plenty of access where the rear plug could be accessed when the rear is in place. If not consider making a little extra gap where the lower plug is. I may have to copy your design Jody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 Looks awesome jamie. please dont finish this before my Backhalve is done Anymore pics of the rear struts? Are they finished? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 Jody, I want to keep the inner A-Arm mounts high so that the roll center doesn't get too high. I am actually going to drop the outer arm mounts as it bolts to the strut housing to lower the RC further. This will help keep the tires squarer to the ground during squat as well as make a better handling car. As you said, raising the diff will have other benifits anyway. So that is what I'm going to do. I'm not sure I understand what you mean by single layer brace? The rear will bolt to a part I haven't welded onto the subframe yet. Stony, I hope to have the kinks out of this by the wwekend, so, you better hurry up! The strut housing are still in process like all other things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 Jamie, What I meant about single layer brace was that the rear mount bolts are only about 1 inch long and the brace you made is about 2" wide, so you'll have to drill out a hole in one side of the brace so you can feed the rear bolts in one side or a single layer of the frame brace you are making. Maybe it'll be strong enough... or maybe you can weld hardened steel rings on the one side of the brace to run the bolts thru. Jody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 Oh, the diff will mount below that. The attaching plate will be 1/4". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 wow!! you should consider making measurements and and sharing it with us! hell.. if ya had some spare time and wanted to extra cash.. you could always start selling them i'd buy one in a heartbeat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted September 27, 2005 Share Posted September 27, 2005 I will be offering this set-up for sale when it is proven. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest el240z Posted September 27, 2005 Share Posted September 27, 2005 Hey Jamie I can't wait for you to start selling this conversion. Its very exciting to see the progess of how things are coming along. Also on a side note when you do finally start sales make sure to let me know because I will be one of your first customers. Already got 2 300zx tt diffs, a drive shaft and 4 300zxtt cv shafts and the front diff mount. Best of luck. El Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted September 27, 2005 Share Posted September 27, 2005 I laid out the control arms today and will hopefully start cutting the parts for them tomorrow. Then, on to the hub and strut tubes. My dad had a heart attack this morning so I'm probably not going get as much time to work on them as I'd like, mut he's more important. Besides, anyone who knows me, knows I take forever to get anything done anyway. My new rear will hopefully get tested this winter and into the spring before I will attempt to make anything for anyone else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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