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240 mount for rotisserie? Pics...


JMortensen

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I have a question for those who have gone before me.

 

Is this an OK way to mount the 240 front end to the rotisserie? I don't see any other real easy way to do it, and I looked at a BUNCH of rotisserie threads and couldn't see this issue dealt with specifically. It's a pretty thin section of sheet metal there, which is why I'm concerned a bit. There is a brace behind it, but is it enough???

 

What do you say?

 

rot1.jpg

rot2.jpg

rot3.jpg

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I built mine so it would attach to the front sway bar nuts in the frame rails. The pumper attachments look like they'll take a lot of vertical load, but not as much sideways. If your body is totally stripped I'm sure it will be fine.

 

 

It you wanted more safety, it would not take much to build the "fork" and weld it to your existing turret.

 

 

 

BTW, isn't that a 280 with bumper shocks in the pic?

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I built mine so it would attach to the front sway bar nuts in the frame rails. The pumper attachments look like they'll take a lot of vertical load, but not as much sideways. If your body is totally stripped I'm sure it will be fine.

Mine's not going to be a pumper at all. Just some modded engine stands here, nothing fancy. The body will be stripped. Kinda funny about the 280 bumper shock comment. Those tubes in the picture are actually brake ducts I added a few years back.

 

Tell me that's NOT the same car we raced in Santa Maria and Marina. Please.

 

BTW' date=' great job on the rotisserie![/quote']

The very same. It's as taken apart as I've ever had a Z, that's for sure. Don't worry, it'll be faster (by a LONG shot) when I get done. The question is really when am I going to get done... :( I was hoping to finish this summer. Maybe next summer... or the next summer...

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I built mine so it would attach to the front sway bar nuts in the frame rails.
Whoa! I disagree. Those are tiny little nuts welded to ~20ga sheet. It's also a spot that's prone to rust. My car's pass. side sway bar mount was quite corroded. True, you're closer to the center of mass and also you're into the actually boxed frame, but I would only use that spot if you first completely re-enforced that area.
The pumper attachments look like they'll take a lot of vertical load' date=' but not as much sideways. If your body is totally stripped I'm sure it will be fine. [/quote']I assume that was a typo and you meant "bumper" mounts. Granted, the whole S30 chassis is generally right on the edge of cardboard, but I'd say the bumper mounts are definitely the best bet.

 

The only alternative I can imagine is to build long, fork lift style mounts that attach to the frame across 12-18inches of the frame rail. But then you're into lots of frame fab on the car.

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Whoa! I disagree. Those are tiny little nuts welded to ~20ga sheet. It's also a spot that's prone to rust. My car's pass. side sway bar mount was quite corroded. True, you're closer to the center of mass and also you're into the actually boxed frame, but I would only use that spot if you first completely re-enforced that area. I assume that was a typo and you meant "bumper" mounts. Granted, the whole S30 chassis is generally right on the edge of cardboard, but I'd say the bumper mounts are definitely the best bet.

I'm sure you're right Jeromio. I thought he was saying the area where I was going to jack the thing up was strong enough (mine isn't going to have bottle jacks on it), but now I see that it was supposed to be bumper mounts.

 

I think from everyones' comments it will be OK the way it is, but it was the side load on those thin bumper attachment areas that I was concerned with...

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The front end of a stripped Z is pretty damn light though, I can pick it up at the front cross member myself and wheel it around on the back wheels without any problem. You're probably not talking more than 200lbs at that point. If you are really concerned about it run some steel down to the horn mounts and triangulate things there, then you will have 4 attachment points to the chassis. Incidently, it's amusing but at first glance it would seem to me the horn mounts are at least as strong as the sway bar mounts...

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The front end of a stripped Z is pretty damn light though, I can pick it up at the front cross member myself and wheel it around on the back wheels without any problem. You're probably not talking more than 200lbs at that point. If you are really concerned about it run some steel down to the horn mounts and triangulate things there, then you will have 4 attachment points to the chassis. Incidently, it's amusing but at first glance it would seem to me the horn mounts are at least as strong as the sway bar mounts...

That is a damn fine idea Drax, so I just went out to the garage and made that change. I was thinking it might be easier to work on my sway bar end links with the thing on the rotisserie, so I figured what the hell and went for it. I also welded on the engine stand pivot. I'm pretty comfortable with the way it is now. Thanks for the input everyone.

Pics...

 

rot4.jpg

rot5.jpg

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Not quite what I had in mind, but it's an easy fix. The loading that is going to potentially bend the sheet metal on the car is when it is on it's side. (90 degrees to the way cars normally sit) All your mounts are in bending in the current position, and worse when the car is on it's side. I was thinking a very lightweight member from... oh forget it, here's a pic.

 

rot.jpg

 

I'm sure you are fine the way you are, but if you plan on assembling the car on there at all you might add this member to the front end. Even 1/4" round bar would be fine for this member... Doesn't need to be huge.

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  • 8 months later...

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