Jump to content
HybridZ

Brakes died...


Recommended Posts

So I've had my '76 280z a few months. When I got it, brakes were pulling to the right a little bit and I hadn't had time to deal with it yet. Then today I was on the other end of town and at a stop light. The brakes were hissing a little bit, I noticed, and I was just playing with them while waiting for the light. Pumped them a couple times, listening to the sound...not much else.

 

Light turns green and off I go...then the next time I go for the brakes they exhibit the following undesirable features suddenly:

 

-very squishy

-vibrating (felt like a gravely feeling, if that makes sense)

-had to floor the pedal to get it to even try and stop

 

I'm thinking the booster is dead, but I'd really like to not have to fork out cash for that right now. So before I go and spend money I'd like some second opinions. I did some searching and someone mentioned doing a test of pressing the pedal a few times with the car off -- it should harden up a little. I think maybe it did slightly. But then with a little pressure on the pedal, start the car and the pedal should drop away from your foor towards the floor -- didn't happen. I looked at the FSM troubleshooting section briefly, but...eh...

 

anyways, any ideas?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought I read somewhere that somebody was using a zx booster in their early model z....? I don't know. I just figure that if I'm going to replace it, I don't want to get el cheapo parts.

 

I need to keep reminding myself that I'm a college student, haha!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The booster would not exhibit the symptoms you indicated

 

-very squishy

[booster will make it squishy as opposed to not having one]

-vibrating (felt like a gravely feeling, if that makes sense)

[booster is all about pedal feel, if the pedal was vibrating maybe]

-had to floor the pedal to get it to even try and stop

[if the booster was bad, you wouldn't be able to floor the pedal if you ever had a car on a hill and you lose the booster the problem is not putting it to the floor, it's "how can I push hard enough to get it to the floor Iiiiiiiyyyeeeeeeeee...".

 

So I think you have a caliper rpoblem, possibly warped rotors, possibly dragging pads making the rotors hot and fading them.

 

Stop the car when it's hot and lift the front end if the wheels are hard to budge, then you've got a caliper problem, if the wheels move freely, take one off and check the pads, if the pads look good and the rotors are not scored, then it's ok. You might have a cracked pad, that would do it, or one that's gone completely.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brandonsz,

although your explenation sounds correct in theory, in my isolated experience, I had a very squishy pedal, that would stop the car rather normally to an extent, but after that "extent" was over, the car would not want to stop any faster. I found the problem to be a rust hole near the vacuum inlet on the brake booster. When I replaced it, the pedal felt harder, but you still had to push the pedal about half way without anything happening, even with a proper and thorough bleed. I know this second problem is with the brake master cylinder which I am replacing soon.

 

Just remember, it could be a combination of both your booster or your master cylinder.

 

Also, in my experience, any car that you pump the brakes on (with a booster), while the engine is running, will increase the RPM's.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brandonsz' date='

although your explenation sounds correct in theory, in my isolated experience, I had a very squishy pedal, that would stop the car rather normally to an extent, but after that "extent" was over, the car would not want to stop any faster. I found the problem to be a rust hole near the vacuum inlet on the brake booster. When I replaced it, the pedal felt harder, but you still had to push the pedal about half way without anything happening, even with a proper and thorough bleed. I know this second problem is with the brake master cylinder which I am replacing soon.

 

Just remember, it could be a combination of both your booster or your master cylinder.

 

Also, in my experience, any car that you pump the brakes on (with a booster), while the engine is running, will increase the RPM's.[/quote']

 

Booster causing idle to change is definately a leak having to do with the booster, but could be just the hose possibly. I think there is a booster problem now and maybe another problem somewhere else. Sounds fishy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gravely feeling is definitely something metal to metal in the brakes (either the pad lining or the shoe linings are gone). Can't pin it down any more than that, but you need to get the wheels off and find out what is grinding on what. Start with that, then adjust the rear brakes. Drums way out of adjustment will give a long pedal.

 

Sounds like you need a booster too since you have a vacuum leak when you step on the brakes.

 

Basically you're going to have to go through the whole system.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, nothing is grinding on anything. I knew this already because the vibration feeling is even when I'm stopped. I guess it's something to do with the booster. I checked the vacuum line...looks okay. Took off the front wheels and pads/calipers/etc all look in order. I'm kinda leaning towards the booster anyways, since the housing is all rusty (yet the rest of the car has no rust)....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...