GrayZee Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 I had a request to take some pics of my setup, I figured I might as well share them with everybody. http://www.members.shaw.ca/icecube/Alckyinjection/ The extra reservoir is from a 280zx and I used the facory bracket to hold it in place. I simply made up battery bracket from angle iron, welded it on and powder-coated it. The zx's have a low level sensor to warn you you are running out of washer fluid. The sensor happens to fit in a older Z's reservoir just fine. I ran a T in the line and mated it up to the 2nd reservoir so that the pump can draw from both bottles and thus more capacity. They are both sitting at the same height so they both sit at the same fluid level. I hooked up the sensor to light up the low fuel light (which does not work from the gas tank anymore) I also do not have the fasten seatbelt light hooked up, instead it lights when the pump energizes. That way I know the pump is working. To mount the nozzles I simply bought two 3/8ths pipe couplers. I cut them in half and welded them to the J pipe. To be sure of the nozzles getting proper spray I ran a T in the pressure line and added a gauge. It is simply a 1.5" autometer fuel pressure gauge. Running a gauge like this is normally illegal, but that is because running fuel into your cockpit is very dangerous. I figure washer fluid won't kill anyone. The pressure switch I used works very well. I got it from a guy that does air control systems for HVAC in buildings. I imagine you could buy one from any industrial plumbing/electrical supplier. I originally used a Honeywell/Hobbs pressure switch, but I wasn't impressed with it at all. Turn it a 8th of a turn and the trigger point will change by like 3psi. The one I use now if VERY accurate. Here is the info on the switch: Barksdale "the little general" part# MSPS-DD15-Q47 runs from 1.5-15psi 15A 125-250VAC (12vdc works fine, but I did use a relay to turn on the pump) For a pump, I simply used the headlight washer pump from a 280zx (300zx's have them too) Next season I intend to get another pressure switch and run two pumps in stages. Right now, both nozzles kick in at 5psi. I want to make the 2nd (or maybe 3rd) nozzle to kick in at about 12psi. This should allow me to run more fluid with less fear of bogging down the engine from too much fluid. Plus it should consume less fluid that way. The only other component that I did not take a pic off is the check valve. You need a check valve to keep the fluid from leaking past the nozzles into the intake. I got mine from a store that sells sprayer parts. I mounted it close to the nozzles to keep the lines full of fluid, therefore decreasing spray delays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spork Posted October 28, 2005 Share Posted October 28, 2005 well, interesting setup, but I see a problem in the future if you aren't already seeing it right now. On a turbocharged car, most setups with small pumps like you're using use a sealed fluid tank with a pressure line from the manifold into the tank. That way you're not experiencing lower pressures at the nozzles when you get into boost. The pressure line equals out the pressure in the tank and lines and you get the same spray and atomization that you would when the car isn't under boost. The higher boost you run, the more of a problem this will become unless you equalize the pressure. The guys with big pumps like the sureflow units don't have to worry about this as some of the pumps can put out around 200psi. A small washer pump has no chance of doing something like that. Anyways, jut wanted to point this out so you don't run into problems later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted October 29, 2005 Author Share Posted October 29, 2005 I haven't seen any problems yet. The system works flawlessly. It keeps my pinging at bay and there are no bog issues from the spray hitting too hard or too soon. I maintain a steady 55psi under full boost (15psi) If I get a pressure drop from running more (or bigger) nozzles I will be running two pumps by that time anyway. I'm a bit of a ways before I will be running more boost as I still have the stock T3. If ever it should become a problem I will get myself a Surflo pump. At least with the gauge I will know that I am experiencing pressure drop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v8dats Posted October 29, 2005 Share Posted October 29, 2005 pretty cool i like it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted October 29, 2005 Share Posted October 29, 2005 Very impressive!! Now get an intercooler and haul some ***!! hehe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted October 29, 2005 Author Share Posted October 29, 2005 Very impressive!! Now get an intercooler and haul some ***!! hehe Intercooler? we don't need no stinkin intercooler! LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernardd Posted November 12, 2005 Share Posted November 12, 2005 You should add what you had for fuel injectors and where the timing is set to................ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted November 13, 2005 Author Share Posted November 13, 2005 You should add what you had for fuel injectors and where the timing is set to................ At the time I first started playing with the water injection I was using the stock 260cc injectors, and as for timing.. I can't remember at the moment, I know it was advanced off the scale of the crank pulley. That was with a stock 84 turbo ecu. With the help of the ackly nozzles I was still able to keep it from running lean even with the small injectors. 10 or 12 to 1 at full boost if I recall correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280Z28 Posted November 14, 2005 Share Posted November 14, 2005 I haven't seen any problems yet. The system works flawlessly. It keeps my pinging at bay and there are no bog issues from the spray hitting too hard or too soon. I maintain a steady 55psi under full boost (15psi) If I get a pressure drop from running more (or bigger) nozzles I will be running two pumps by that time anyway. I'm a bit of a ways before I will be running more boost as I still have the stock T3. If ever it should become a problem I will get myself a Surflo pump. At least with the gauge I will know that I am experiencing pressure drop. Easy solution to that is have the system turn on 5psi earlier than he needs it to, so it's all the way up and running when he wants it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted November 14, 2005 Author Share Posted November 14, 2005 Easy solution to that is have the system turn on 5psi earlier than he needs it to, so it's all the way up and running when he wants it. I already set the system to turn on early. Right now it comes on @5psi. No need for that as I already know I can run 9 or 10psi without any water. However since I put on a checkball style manual boost controller the boost can really hammer up to full boost in a hurry and I like to give the water a head start just in case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernardd Posted November 14, 2005 Share Posted November 14, 2005 With the stock inj's the afr's where 12 to 1 dropping to 11 to 8ish at 15psi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280Z28 Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 With the stock inj's the afr's where 12 to 1 dropping to 11 to 8ish at 15psi. Anything below 12 and you're just wasting gas and hurting your power output. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted November 15, 2005 Author Share Posted November 15, 2005 Anything below 12 and you're just wasting gas and hurting your power output. Maybe, we never did get a chance to do any serious tuning as the wideband o2 controller went south shortly afterwards. (bad connector) However I think what Bernard was trying to point out was how filthy rich we were able to get my A/F's on STOCK INJECTORS! even at 15psi it wasn't going lean. You see the washer fluid acts as a fuel as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mc Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 I just finished installing my alky set up and it works great....i was curious what size nozzles did you use?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted December 4, 2005 Author Share Posted December 4, 2005 I just finished installing my alky set up and it works great....i was curious what size nozzles did you use?? I'm not sure (they were given to me) I think they were a #3 and a #5, but I could be wrong. They came from coolingmist.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernardd Posted December 4, 2005 Share Posted December 4, 2005 I'm not sure (they were given to me) I think they were a #3 and a #5, but I could be wrong. They came from coolingmist.com That's correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 I just noticed in the post that many of you are looking at the AFR's when tuning with water injections. This can be very very very deceiving unless you have your wideband calibrated to read the correct stoic. Lots of information on this over on the innovate forums. It is better to tune with lambda, that way it doesn matter how the water/methanol/alcohol has effected your the stoic of the fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 "..tune with lambada, that way it doesn matter how the water/methanol/alcohol has effected your..." I will only use the Lambada in the presence of lots of alcohol!! LOL Hoke, I think you meant Lambda. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernardd Posted March 14, 2006 Share Posted March 14, 2006 http://techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/wblambda.htm see chart for afr's, as you can see, it doesn't matter what the fuel used as the lambda will still be the same. 0.800 L = 11.76gas = 12.40 LPG = 5.12 meth the innovate guy is very confusing but says the same thing in a couple of threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 I just noticed in the post that many of you are looking at the AFR's when tuning with water injections. This can be very very very deceiving unless you have your wideband calibrated to read the correct stoic. Lots of information on this over on the innovate forums. It is better to tune with lambada' date=' that way it doesn matter how the water/methanol/alcohol has effected your the stoic of the fuel.[/quote'] LM1's are calibrated with free air. Fuel type doesn't matter. I find it easier to look at the AFR rather than Lambda as I know at a quick glance that say 13.8 is too lean under WOT. I would have no idea what that would be in Lambda without learning what the equivilant AFR is or looking at the AFR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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