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camber Plates where to buy them?


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Are the Techno Toy Tuning 280ZX camber plates bolt-in or weld-in and would I also have to use the coil over kit? How does anybody like these that have them on their car?

 

Good question to pose to Gabriel himself. However, my understanding is that its meant to be used with a coilover kit. It is weld in though, their website states that. I want to be able to adjust caster as well as camber, so I will be ordering his pillowball adjusters without the plates (I will make my own plates). I haven't got a quote on them yet, waiting for a return email which will probably show up tomorrow (just sent my zip for shipping tonight).

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  • 6 months later...

Can anybody send me a picture of their installed EMI camber plates? Shoot the picture from inside the engine compartment. I just want to see what they look like when properly installed. I'd like to see a photo from a car with about 3 degrees negative camber, and johnc's recommended 5 degrees caster. Goal is autocross. My suspension has bumpsteer spacers, coil-overs, eliptical aluminum/delrin LCA mount bushings in the stock LCA, and aluminum/plastic T-C rod bushings in place of the rubber on the stock T-C rod. Shocks are Illuminas. I just ordered a set and I want to get the static install done properly so my alignment man doesn't have much to do as I have limited alignment shop options and a full-time job so I can look over his shoulder. Prefer limited advice and comment, but a photo of the upper tower and bolt arrangement for approximate alignment would be a real help and greatly appreciated.

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Prefer limited advice and comment, but a photo of the upper tower and bolt arrangement for approximate alignment would be a real help and greatly appreciated.

 

Here are a couple pics from my album.

 

Strut_Tower_1.JPG

 

Strut_Mount_2.JPG

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just finished installing EMI Camber Plates from JohnC at BetaMotorSports. Totally a VERY EASY bolt-in project if you already have coil-over struts with small diameter springs. Make sure to take your struts apart ahead of time, get a caliper to measure and send John the actual dimensions of your struts before ordering, (you never really know what you have until you take it apart, and you may need custom shims for your application - which EMI can make to your spec or strut part number). I am very happy with the improvement in my car's handling. No clunking or noise; no vertical or lateral play in system. Car has stopped pushing in corners and I can't wait till the next autocross. This was a fully bolt-in job with NO cutting required. I really can't see any reason to go to the trouble of modifying your strut towers when such an easy bolt-in system is available. It took 2 weeks to get the parts on my doorstep (EMI had to be modify the bearing to fit my "mystery" strut rods) and about 2 hours to install them. Pushing the top of the tire in also gave me more room for tires; currently have 7" rims, can easily go to 8" without rubbing, cutting or flares. PM me for details.

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  • 1 year later...

I'm contemplating using these plates (they will have to be trimmed and drilled to fit):

camberplate2.jpg

z0240a.JPG

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120827338291?item=120827338291&viewitem=&vxp=mtr#ht_1063wt_1038 or

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380402436863?item=380402436863&viewitem=&vxp=mtr#ht_3019wt_804

 

I want to use Bilsteins F4-P30-0032-M1 like many others seem to have been able to do. I think I can run these 2.5" ID coil spring bearings

hal-7888-109_w.jpghttp://www.summitracing.com/parts/HAL-7888-109

to eat up the load so the spherical bearing doesn't have to. I cant seem to think of a good reason not use this bearing setup in place of an upper hat-to-lower camber plate needle bearing. Any thoughts?

Edited by Bigdeezs
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Without seeing the upper spring perch that's used with your camber plates, there's no way of knowing where the spring loads go. The spherical bearing is fine for the shock loads and works fine for a while handling the spring loads. The 2.5" Torrington bearings pictured normally sit under the springs and reduce spring warp/bind and the resulting friction against the shock upper seal and piston.

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Thanks for the response John

I was thinking about butting one of these hats directly against the lower portion of the camber plate (possibly securing it there)

COK12470.jpg

COK12465.jpg

 

These hats will likely need some modification. I would prefer to minimize the loads on these spherical bearings as I'm sure they are of the lowest quality based on the price. The 2.5" needle bearings would do just as you said. But I'm using them more in place of the needle bearing that many camber plate manufacturers place above the hat, that also allow the spindle/hub assembly to articulate freely.

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John I didnt visualize what you said about spring load vs shock load until I was reading another post...

The monoball will always take the damping load, It also will take huge peak loads if you bottom the shock and jam things tight. Bottoming out the shock is what pounds out the monoballs. The needle bearings allow the spring/strut to rotate for steering and to relieve torsion build up in the spring on the rears.

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