thehelix112 Posted November 14, 2005 Share Posted November 14, 2005 SR gearbox onto L tutorial Parts Required: L6 gearbox SR gearbox New L6 gearbox countershaft bearing (optional) Part Numbers: 63/22C3, TMB3/22C3, or 22BC0655X. Call CBC (http://www.conbear.com). Specific Tools Required: 16mm drill bit Dremel with a small grinding disc. Optionals: 16mm H7 reamer bit, 41/64ths drill bit. Step 1: Remove L6 bell housing from gearbox. To do this unbolt the bolts halfway on the gearbox that go from the extension housing through the sandwich plate to the bell. Also unbolt the cover on the inside of the bell that the clutch arm sits on. You will then need to remove the circlip on the front of the input shaft bearing. Use circlip pliers and a screw driver. Put everything aside as you will be using some of it again. Remove SR bell housing from gearbox following the same procedure. Step 2: Remove the SR countershaft front bearing using two chisel point screw drivers to get it started, then lever it off against the bearing (as opposed to the gear) so you don't ruin the gear. Step 3: Reinstall the 240Z countershaft bearing. Either reusing the one from the L6 box, or a new one. Gently knock it down with a rubber mallet. Step 4: Drill out the 1st/2nd selector shaft hole in the L6 bell housing using a 15 or 16mm drill bit then a 16mm H7 reaming bit. Or you could try a 41/64ths bit if you happen to have one lying around (thats what I ended up using). Step 5: Get a dremel/rotary tool and grind away 1mm or so from the countershaft casting on the inside side of the gearbox bell housing. This is necessary as the casting has been modified between the 71B and the 71C to accommodate the wider gears assumedly. You also need to put a chamfer on the edge which is square standard. I made this chamfer between 1 and 2mm big. Step 6: Trial fit this bell onto the SR gearbox being careful of the oil supply cup on the upper passenger side just above the 1st mainshaft gear. Rotate the input shaft by hand. If it is very difficult to turn you need to die grind some more off the countershaft casting in the bell. Step 7: When you can bolt the gearbox up and rotate the input shaft easily you are just about ready to bolt the box together. You could possibly have trouble with the 1st/2nd input shaft not wanting to go into the bell housing because this metal doesn't have any oil sitting on it, I suggest you squirt a dab in there. If the selector doesn't go in it can slide backwards (engaging 1st gear). If this happens and the gearbox shifter is not in the 1st position you won't be able to select any gears (except 5th/Rev) from then on. If putting some oil in the 1st/2nd selector shaft hole doesn't solve the problem, you can put the gearbox in the 1st position before you bolt it up and it will be fine. Worked for me atleast. Step 8: Reassemble the gearbox as you took it apart and you're ready to go. Don't forget the circlip on the mainshaft bearing. Use the L6 front gearbox cover, clutch arm and throw out bearing carrier. Additional issues: The SR gearbox has the bolts for the gearbox x-member around 35mm further back than the 71B box. Depends on your car what you do to fix this. Here is what I did, tad dogey, but it works. This gearbox is also 50mm longer at the end of the tailshaft. I took a tailshaft that was used on a 71B box and had it shortened by 50mm and it fits just fine (after you remove the cover for the front spline as it doesn't fit into the gearbox). Big thanks to Mad1600 for helping me and motivation. Pics to follow. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mario_82_ZXT Posted November 14, 2005 Share Posted November 14, 2005 Sweet tutorial, now I want a tranny to do this on. 1 fast Z also does the mods at his shop for this as well. I think he's running one of these boxes on his new build, I want one because they are much newer, hopefully stronger, and short shifters are easily available. Mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNeedForZ Posted November 14, 2005 Share Posted November 14, 2005 Great tutorial, For ease of naviagtion : Gearbox specs: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105983 What's the HP/TQ rating of the new trans and what are the gear ratios? thank you. Put some glue on this thread and make it a sticky!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBeaut Posted November 14, 2005 Share Posted November 14, 2005 Perfect timing, nice write up! I pulled the bellhousing of an S14 box just the other day. I'm thinking about machining the countershaft bearing hole larger on the L-bellhousing rather than swap in the smaller L box bearing. Any other known issues? Does the reverse light sensor still work OK? Look forward to the pics. Cheers, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted November 14, 2005 Author Share Posted November 14, 2005 The reverse light sensor is in the right place as far as I can see. Only the 1st/2nd selector fork is bigger, and even then only by 2mm, the other selector shafts are in the same place so the sensors will work. You will need either an electronic speedo or a mechanical speedo drive though. I haven't bothered as yet but let us know if you find out what suits different setups. Can definitely machine the bell to fit the bigger bearing. Simpler for backyarders like myself to just replace the bearing though. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kalium99 Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 Just wondering what ratios were used in those boxes? Longer I'm assuming... It sounds kind of similar to the FJ box swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbobluestreak Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 what generation of 240sx are you guys getting the gear boxs out of or would any box be a good choice? tbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 sounds to be exactly the same as the KA Swap and I'm using a latemodel from a twin cam, it was given to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBeaut Posted November 15, 2005 Share Posted November 15, 2005 The tranny in question is the FS5W71C that was used on a few different Nissans worldwide over the years with some slight variation in ratios. Commonest 1st gear seems to be 3.321, in the UK however the S13 200SX (fitted with the CA18DET) has a 3.592 1st which is a bit mad. You can also get aftermarket gear sets such as OS Giken which have closer ratios i.e. 1st is available as 2.717 or even 2.596. There's quite a bit of useful info on this box here: http://www.phattransmissions.com/transmissionParts.html Cheers, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted November 15, 2005 Author Share Posted November 15, 2005 Would someone care to measure the gear widths of the KA tranny so we can see whats what? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbobluestreak Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 any pics yet of what you did to your tail shaft helix112? I'm interstead in how you made that work. tbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wigenOut-S30 Posted December 1, 2005 Share Posted December 1, 2005 Great write up.. Admins.. this would be a Great STICKY.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted December 6, 2005 Share Posted December 6, 2005 So Follow Me on This One, Guys: If the SX Gearbox is 2 to 2.5" longer than the original Z box. And the differential Relocation of the Pre-71 cars is about the same... Shouldn't you be able to use one of the early pre 71 driveshafts in the back of the SX tranny to mate with a differential in the "late location" without having it modified? Reason for asking? I did three or four differential relocations for people and have those old driveshafts laying around for the day they want to "return the car to original and I can charge a premium for the parts because everyone else threw them away" (Or that's what I tell the wife!) If this is the case, heck, I got the trannies, and I might have the driveshafts to boot! WOO HOO! Looks like SX / KA tranny shiftlever relocation is about where the early trannies were shiftlever wise, too! Anyone, Bueller? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted December 6, 2005 Author Share Posted December 6, 2005 turbobluestreak, I just had the tailshaft shortened by 50mm (2"). The tranny mount I'll take a picture of next time I'm at the car. Its basically two bits of flat, one which goes to the transmission, the other to the x-member, then join them with two small bits of metal. No rubber mounting but there is rubber in the x-member to chassis connection and it appears to be just fine. Tony D, Yes the shifter is in the same spot. No changes there. You may THINK you have to beat the flare at the bottom of the stick to clear the hole, but thats only because your engine is leaning backwards because you forgot to chock it up after you got the gearbox out Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbobluestreak Posted December 6, 2005 Share Posted December 6, 2005 yes please take a picture of it I'm getting ready to do this after the new year. tbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianZ Posted May 25, 2006 Share Posted May 25, 2006 pics > Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted May 26, 2006 Author Share Posted May 26, 2006 I'm sorry about the delay guys. I'm in Laguna Beach and have been for a couple of months. When I head back to Oz the engine is coming out of the car so I'll take some happy snaps then. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wardie Posted May 27, 2006 Share Posted May 27, 2006 Does anyone have pics or clear diagrams of the 3 types of 5 speed L series boxes (FS5W71A, B or C). I have just bought a 5 speed box that is supposed to be from a Aussie 240Z and want to fit it to my MR30 Skyline hatch. I think it is a 'B' box and have tried to match it to the diagrams in my manuals but there is just not enough detail 4 me to be entirely sure. I do know that mine is different to the one Lurch 2461 has picked up for his PNS R30 Skyline (his speedo output is on the left, mine is on the right as viewed from the rear). Thanks Wardie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JasonDMX2 Posted June 30, 2007 Share Posted June 30, 2007 I have a fs5w71c and the factory service manual does not correctly identify my synchronizer hubs so I have no idea how they go. Any help/pictures of your fs5w71c tranny internals would be appreciated. They both have the right angle cutout on one face, but then on the other face one is chamfered and the other is flat. Now it the manual they show the 3rd and 4th hub as having the cutout and chamfer on the front side and the back is also chamfered. Then the 1st and 2nd hub has a right angle cutout on the front with a chamfer on the rear face. Also, just to make sure they do refer to the "front" of the tranny as the motor side of the tranny, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted June 30, 2007 Share Posted June 30, 2007 Does this only work for the 5 speed tranny? Could an imported 6 speed tranny work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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