Custom LCA pictures

[JMortensen]

The proper way is on an alignment rack IMO. The bubble camber gauge backyard method is to measure camber then turn the wheel x number of degrees and measure it again, there is then a formula that you can use to deduce the caster. Caster (deg) = (180 / 3.1415) * [(camber1 - camber2) / (turnangle1 - turnangle2)]

 

I tried to do it with the bubble level method and was off by 2º when I checked it on a rack. Not sure if that was bad calculation, not perfectly level floor surface where I checked it, or what.

 

I guess I should say that if you have a perfectly level surface and have the string alignment system down you can do it very accurately. I didn't have that when I did it.

[peej410]

The proper way is on an alignment rack IMO. The bubble camber gauge backyard method is to measure camber then turn the wheel x number of degrees and measure it again' date=' there is then a formula that you can use to deduce the caster. Caster (deg) = (180 / 3.1415) * [(camber1 - camber2) / (turnangle1 - turnangle2)']

 

I tried to do it with the bubble level method and was off by 2º when I checked it on a rack. Not sure if that was bad calculation, not perfectly level floor surface where I checked it, or what.

 

I guess I should say that if you have a perfectly level surface and have the string alignment system down you can do it very accurately. I didn't have that when I did it.

 

 

ok... a friend of mine has a race car trailer that has feet that you can use to level the trailer out perfectly on most surfaces. if im understanding you correctly. i could use that and a digital level to get caster. correct?

[JMortensen]

If your level is accurate yes. Then you need to know precisely how many degrees you move the wheels before you check the camber again. I just drew a line on the garage floor with a protractor. If you (or he) had some slip plates you could tell exactly how many degrees you've moved and your results would probably be a lot better than mine.

[heavy85]

Way back, when ... I prided myself on being able to bounce the passenger's head off the side window any time I wanted.

 

My first car - a 260Z - I used to drive a little on the aggressive side. Actually my speedo stopped working when I landed once. Stupid kids to stupid things I guess. Anyway, there was this one hill - 'Thrill Hill' - that was very steep and halfway down it leveled off for a sideroad then got steep again. Well I think you can imagine how that goes when you hit leave the flat at about 60-70. I can distinctly remember bouncing at least three passengers heads off the roof including my wife (girlfried back then). Teach them not to wear their seatbelt. Sorry had to reminise (spel?)

 

Cameron

[peej410]

My first car - a 260Z - I used to drive a little on the aggressive side. Actually my speedo stopped working when I landed once. Stupid kids to stupid things I guess. Anyway' date=' there was this one hill - 'Thrill Hill' - that was very steep and halfway down it leveled off for a sideroad then got steep again. Well I think you can imagine how that goes when you hit leave the flat at about 60-70. I can distinctly remember bouncing at least three passengers heads off the roof including my wife (girlfried back then). Teach them not to wear their seatbelt. Sorry had to reminise (spel?)

 

Cameron[/quote']

 

i used to jump my old maxima, one day i decided to go big (i was 16 mind you) and i hit the jump doing about 80, as my car left the asphalt i saw a police car in the intersecting lane (barely enough room to stop at 80mph) needless to say i locked them up mid air and slid through the intersection, i **** a brick looked over at the cop car no less than 30 feet from me to see that it was empty and it had a radar thing on it. i never jumped my car again, but the 4 skid marks lasted 9 months and were over 75 feet long. remembering it i dont know if i should laugh or smack myself. i wonder of my LCAs will take that kind of abuse... hrm

[thehelix112]

Well since we're sharing.

 

Here is a different/easier?/weaker? way of doing it.

 

Step 1: Cut the front off the LCA

Step 2: Cut the top off the LCA back 100mm or so.

Step 3: Get some 25mm bar and drill and hole and tap it to 5/8" UNF.

Step 4: Sit the bar into the channel and weld it down the sides. Looks something like this:

 

 

Step 5: Flip the LCA over and angle grind a channel into the underside until you get to the bar. Then weld it up so the bar is now joined to the LCA 3x100mm points:

 

 

 

Step 5: Weld the top back on and grind it nicely.

Step 6: Weld some flat onto the front.

Step 7: Grind away the **** and spray it black. Now looks something like this:

 

 

Step 8: Spin up some spacers for the rod end to cross-member bolt:

 

Step 9: Put them on the car:

 

 

 

 

Other things you might want to do at the same time:

 

Cut the rear castor-rod bush in half to get more thread on that side, then space out the inner side by 20mm or so to get some more castor:

 

 

Mine ended up looking like this, needed the front bar to be `relieved':

 

 

Dave

[peej410]

dave i think your method does work, i designed mine the way i did because i wanted to spread out the load more. i also wanted to use the larger heim rod joints. one thing you should look into is the tc rod mount, i dont believe your setup will allow for enough movement. from full droop to fully compressed i measured 18 degrees of movement in the TC rod. thats quite a bit for a bushing thats cut in half to absorb.

[blueovalz]

Here is a different/easier?/weaker? way of doing it.

I did it both ways. The first set was for using male rod ends, very much like yours. The second set I made used a 3/4" bolt (about 6" long) that was welded in place of the threaded tube. I ended up liking the "stud" version better as it was much easier to fabricate, and the end of the control arm that was cut off was spaced out further from the crossmember, which allowed more variability in positioning the rod-end on the crossmember mounting bolt. I simply cut the head off the bolt, and welded the resultant "stud" or shank into the arm the same way that you welded the threaded tube into the arm. I found that with the threaded tube (mine was thinner walled than yours is) a good penetrating weld would require cleaning up of the threads inside the tube, and I had to be careful not to go to deep with the weld. This problem was eliminated with the stud approach.

 

[Guest 73LT1Z]

I did it both ways. The first set was for using male rod ends' date=' very much like yours. The second set I made used a 3/4" bolt (about 6" long) that was welded in place of the threaded tube. I ended up liking the "stud" version better as it was much easier to fabricate, and the end of the control arm that was cut off was spaced out further from the crossmember, which allowed more variability in positioning the rod-end on the crossmember mounting bolt. I simply cut the head off the bolt, and welded the resultant "stud" or shank into the arm the same way that you welded the threaded tube into the arm. I found that with the threaded tube (mine was thinner walled than yours is) a good penetrating weld would require cleaning up of the threads inside the tube, and I had to be careful not to go to deep with the weld. This problem was eliminated with the stud approach.

 

[/quote']

 

I mangled a set of stock arms trying to press out the shells, so I'm looking at going the bolt/female rod end route as you did. I've measured all the critical areas and will produce info in the near future. Looks like about $100 in parts.

 

How do these work? If you had it to do over again, would you have done anything differently?

 

I've attached a jpg file of how this mod could be done (borrowed Blue Oval's pic for reference).

[ezzzzzzz]

I like the idea of adjustable control arms. However, I don't like rod ends or heim joints on the street. They are cause for more interior noise and a harsher ride. Has anyone created a control arm using a threaded sleeve and cross tube allowing for a stock or poly bushing? Threaded sleeves at both ends with a turnbuckle bolt in the middle for on-the-car adjustment seems logical. Forgive me for not searching........

[HB280ZT]

ezzzzzzz,

 

I have fully adjustable LCA's and TC rods, with hiem joints and I did not notice an increase in interior nose or a harsher ride after installing them. So not sure what to tell you. If you want I can send you pictures of my setup and let you see what they look like. They are Mike Kelley designed units that he helped me make at the last Virginia Shindig.

 

HB280ZT

Chesapeake, Va

[ezzzzzzz]

Sounds good. I'm going from experience of using these in other vehicles and others experience. Maybe I can get a look at your car one day soon as i only live one city over from you.

[Mike Mileski]

If you could cut the arm a little shorter, you could use a double adjuster (see link below) in conjunction with a rod end and have on-the-car adjustability.

 

http://www.cheperformance.com/cartgenie/prod-62.htm

 

Mike Mileski

Tucson, AZ

[blueovalz]

Mike, I thought about this prior to starting on these arms but my concern was adding yet another threaded connection (two threaded connections verses the single one) to a point that takes the brunt of the lateral loading on the car.

 

Interior noise should has not been a problem with these joints, but I'm using the lined joints (Teflon?). Now when I had solid mounts at the camber plates on top of the struts, then I had some extra noise.

 

71LT1Z, I don't think you're going to find any 3/4" NF grade 8 bolts in a left-hand thread. I used right-hand threads on mine.

[Guest 73LT1Z]

Good point- I had dyslexia on that one, should have been RH threads. I edited the jpeg & corrected the QA1 part #. I also shortened the bolt length to 5", since after I cut the arm to 9" this appeared to be a better fit.

 

I was able to use one of my LCAs, so at this point I'm just going to buy another used one so I can use my poly bushings. The above info should work though, and I will probably play around with these when I get some extra time & $ (no time soon).

[Guest JAMIE T]

I'm not worried about that QA1 double adjuster. I have them on the rear suspension on my set-up for on car toe adjustment and they are NICE. They are 3/4-16 so not much worry about the strength. I built double adjustable front arms also. I'll try to find a pic. Mine are basically Mikelly's style. They use his adjusters.

[peej410]

sorry about my absence, im down at the PRI show in orlando and i havent had a chance to check mail till just now. i could absolutely make a control arm with a softer bushing in it. i would need a commited customer though, ill pm you when i get back to CT and we can talk about it further.