mom'sZ Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 Everyone: I want to get a new clutch / pressure plate for my 78 280Z with stock L28. The car will be ITS race car and power level will be no higher then 190 - 200 HP. My biggest concern is a lightwieght clutch / pressure plate assembly in order to reduce reciprocating wieght. I've search for some threads and read a few suggestions. Here's one http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106651&highlight=clutch Also, please make suggestions on where to order from.. summit, jegs whatever. and a throwout bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed260Z Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 The clutch assembly won't save you that much weight. No matter which you get they will all be within a few pounds of each other. Lightened Fly Wheel if the rules allow it. With a 200Hp engine you could use a Stock Style Clutch Disk. ACT makes a real good clutch, without killing the bank account. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 Stock pressure plate with a Nissan Comp 99996-E3040 225mm race clutch disc (solid 4 puck). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 20, 2005 Share Posted December 20, 2005 I have the ACT 225mm clutch with a stock disk and like it. My stock setup was lacking with the SU's and cam and headwork, I'd guess putting down about 200 hp. When I switched to triples it was all over. The stock unit was way too weak. I like the agressive pp and the non agressive clutch because it is easier to drive on the street, and that was my focus when I got it. I suppose you'd reduce rotating mass a little bit with John's suggestion. Probably chew up flywheels and pressure plates too, if you care. Stock pieces aren't exactly hard to come by. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 I've been using the centerforce II dual friction setup. I got it cheap and really didn't expect it to last based on how soft the pedal was. I have the engine out of the car and it looks pretty good given the abuse it took this last season. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mom'sZ Posted December 21, 2005 Author Share Posted December 21, 2005 The clutch assembly won't save you that much weight. yes but, this class is very competetive with very restrictive rules. No matter which you get they will all be within a few pounds of each other. When it comes to reciprocating weight, ounces are a big deal Lightened Fly Wheel if the rules allow it.. They do not... stock flywheel, but clutch is free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed260Z Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 How about a full out race pressure plate and clutch from Spec, http://www.specclutch.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterZ Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 No offense, if your flywheel is reciprocating you have trouble but I know what you mean. You are gathering components for a cometitive car. PS make sure the assembly is balanced or at least from a company you trust and I recommend you have a rev limiter (MSD6AL). About 5 years ago at ThunderHill a guy with an ITS Z broke the crank at the flywheel. The break was such that the starter could get the car to start but what a vibration as the flywheel tried to get out of the block! Nasty. PS. I also recommend a rev limiter to assure you don't lose the valves through the retainer at excessive RPM. Stock retainers can't handle high rpm and the valve stems try to pull through the retainer if you miss a shift or two and the tack goes to 8100. I have personal experience of this. I won the race in a friend's car and got the $21.00 trophy but it cost me $1100 at Rebellos to fix the head. You can actually observe the valves over time trying to pull the keepers through the retainer. Valve lash doesn't change but the retainer creeps higher and higher up the valve stem. The racer's valve stems were almost through the retainer. We caught the problem because the guy's car had a tach with a tell-tale needle. I and had seen the valves pull through or break off on other cars without knowing why. When I got my car I bought a limiter and installed new retainers. I could see the originals had started migrating. Below 7,000 doesn't seem to have this problem but if you miss shifts and don't have a limiter you too can watch the occurrence. Good luck with your car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunar240z Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 maybe he meant rotating mass...not reciprocating? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mom'sZ Posted December 21, 2005 Author Share Posted December 21, 2005 indeed lunar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted December 21, 2005 Share Posted December 21, 2005 Because you plan on running a 280, I'm not entirely sure, but I beleive you can get away with running an earlier 240 flywheel, which is a few pounds lighter. I happen to have one and looking to sell, email or PM me. Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
510six Posted December 23, 2005 Share Posted December 23, 2005 The lightest clutch for the money http://www.10000rpm.com/. I am going to use one of there twin disc units in my strip/street car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mom'sZ Posted February 14, 2006 Author Share Posted February 14, 2006 Stock pressure plate with a Nissan Comp 99996-E3040 225mm race clutch disc (solid 4 puck). John: I tried to order this set up from courtesy nissan. They didn't have the 99996-E3040 race disc. Any other suggestions on where to get one? or a different disc? Also, what is a throw out bearing sleeve? Do I need one of these also and will a stock throw out bearing suffice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted February 14, 2006 Share Posted February 14, 2006 The Nissan Comp clutch disk is a 4 puck, non-sprung clutch disk. You should be able to get a similar disk from somewhere else. I believe Spec has one, as well as 10,000 rpm. If not a non-sprung 6 puck will probably work just as well. Reuse your old throwout bearing sleeve (it's the part that the bearing fits onto). Stock throwout bearing is fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mom'sZ Posted February 14, 2006 Author Share Posted February 14, 2006 Reuse your old throwout bearing sleeve (it's the part that the bearing fits onto) Thanks Jon, I figured that out after I posted (sorry) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mom'sZ Posted February 15, 2006 Author Share Posted February 15, 2006 Stock pressure plate with a Nissan Comp 99996-E3040 225mm race clutch disc (solid 4 puck). So... JohnC It's your opinion that the factory pressure plate with a 4 puck, non-sprung type clutch disk like the NISMO unit you called out would be the best choice to reduce rotating mass (thank you PeterZ) and still provide the clamping force nessasary for a wheel2wheel car w/ the stated HP levels? The Nissan Comp clutch disk is a 4 puck, non-sprung clutch disk. You should be able to get a similar disk from somewhere else. I believe Spec has one, as well as 10,000 rpm. If not a non-sprung 6 puck will probably work just as well. Considering your background in drivetrains Jon, I appreciate your input. thanks to Ed260Z for the link to spec http://www.specclutch.com/ and 510six for the link to 10krpm http://www.10000rpm.com/ neither have much specific information on the web, I'll give a call. Jon, for spec stage 1.. 2.. 3 whatever.... or just call em and tell em the nismo race clutch equivalent? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted February 15, 2006 Share Posted February 15, 2006 I haven't run the puck disk. I always went the other way and ran a heavier pp and a stock disk. But if the Nissan Comp disk is a 4 puck with no springs, you should be able to call those places and ask for that and they'll just throw one in a box and send it to you. I don't think they're hard to come by. The one thing I would say is that I would avoid the sprung puck style clutch. I've seen enough of the regular disks throw a spring, or you pull it out and the springs are totally loose floating in the disk. You're just asking to lose a spring on a grabby puck clutch IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted February 15, 2006 Share Posted February 15, 2006 So... JohnC It's your opinion that the factory pressure plate with a 4 puck, non-sprung type clutch disk like the NISMO unit you called out would be the best choice to reduce rotating mass (thank you PeterZ) and still provide the clamping force nessasary for a wheel2wheel car w/ the stated HP levels? That's what Bryan Lampe ran in his ITS 240Z for a number of years. In my 240Z when I ran it in Solo2 BSP I ran the Nissan Comp pressure plate, Tilton aluminum flywheel, and the same clutch disk behind a 2.8L. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mom'sZ Posted February 15, 2006 Author Share Posted February 15, 2006 Man... there is a ton of information about clutches on this forum. Here's a thread from a couple weeks ago started by PrOxLaMuS© http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103804&highlight=ACT+CLUTCH He starts out wanting to buy the Act 6 puck, some people advise against it for street driving, others seem to think it works fine, he ends up going with the ACT heavy duty pressure plate and ACT full faced, sprung, organic disc and loves it And here are a couple from October and November 2004. The first thread is called 'name your clutch' started by evildky and it's a two pager. Jon expresses his concerns with sprung puck clutches in this thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96418&highlight=ACT+CLUTCH The second one was started by john kosmatka and concerns turbo power levels. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=95805&highlight=ACT+CLUTCH Bastaad525 sings the praises of his Daikin in both threads. Lots of good links and advise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted February 17, 2006 Share Posted February 17, 2006 so what year is that Diaken pressure plate from and what engine? I am going to order a new clutch for my 260Z with a header, head work, cam, and early su's. It has a really high compression ratio ( previous owner dosen't know much about what was modified). I am guessing I am just shy of 190 hp at the back wheels if I had a good clutch. I drove my Z the other day and shifting into second it got squirrely at about 5k rpm with 225/60r15 tires, stock r180 and 4 speed. It lightly drags the rear tires on downshifts and when I had a flat and had to use the 175/60r14 spare I could hardly drive with the spare on there and downshifting was a joke. it would lock up the spare completely and leave a black stripe. I think that Diaken pp will do fine but I would like to know what year model of truck it comes from. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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