remounting the Master Cyl inboard

[660Z]

I`m currently tubing my front end along with a full rollcage and i`m planning on fabbing up some wheel well headers. Since the M/C is off the car and I don`t plan on using the booster anymore. I`m thinking making the headers would be easier with relocating the M/C inside the car something along the lines of what the Chevy shoebox guys do (55-57) only in my case without relying on the dash for support.

 

Has anyone done this or know of a simple kit?

 

I think the major issue is finding a reliable pivot pin to use.

 

Mark

[Ed260Z]

I think I've seen this done on Hot Rods. I would start checking some of those forums. There is a company that I've seen before in some of the American Car mags that makes to M/C setup your looking for. But I can't remember their name, starts with Lo...... Sorry I just can't recall.

[EvilRufusKay]

I asked a similar question about a year and a half ago and from what I gathered, no one has done it in a car like ours before...it would be new ground covered here. Best of luck to you please keep us posted.

 

 

Question...why would you not use the booster anymore?

[JMortensen]

If you're talking about something like this: http://www.pitstopusa.com/detail.aspx?ID=2312 then I haven't seen it in a Z, but I have seen it in a 510. My ex-roommate from a while back made a bracket that tied into the stock dash mounting points and located this master setup in his 510. It was really cool, and if for some reason he ever wanted to go back to a more stock setup a stock pedal box and dash would bolt right back in. A little plumbing and it would be back to stock. He even mounted his custom steering column with the bracket. Very cool.

 

Anyway, the only bad part about his setup was the reservoirs for the master kept cracking on his and draining brake fluid on his feet. I think he eventually got the remote master cylinder kit to fix that problem IIRC. I've heard that the cracking sometimes happens because you tighten the clamp on the reservoir too tight. If that's the case, he's probably guilty of that. Any bolt the guy tightened was guaranteed to require a breaker bar to get loose. He's just too damn strong for his own good.

[EvilRufusKay]

That is a pretty cool setup...would go a long way toward cleaning uo the firewall

[660Z]

Thank for the replies, those pedals aren`t exactly what I had in mind. but would work. I might try to mount the stock unit that way.

 

The idea I had was somthing like this.

 

But I only want the linkage to make it work with the stock setup and I`ll fab the rest.

 

EvilRufusKay: "question...why would you not use the booster anymore? "

 

Because a big cam lowers engine vacuum to a piont that the booster will no longer work properly, and the vacuum canasters are a pain to deal with, so it`s just better to change over to a manual brake system.

 

Mark

[JMortensen]

That's a weird setup. Never seen that one before. I did give you the wrong part for my friend's setup though. His masters were INSIDE the car. I realize now that the part I showed has the masters in the engine compartment. It's really more like this one: http://www.pitstopusa.com/detail.aspx?ID=2309

[EvilRufusKay]

Thanks for the info 660Z makes perfect sense. Good luck with your project!

[660Z]

I found another one

 

But all these are way too much money for what I have in mind.

 

I think I`ll do something along the lines of what jmortensen suggested in his last picure post. And that is extend the brake pedel up through the housing and mount the Datsun M/C there facing in my direction. Of course this is just a thought for now, since I`ve been sick and haven`t been able to go out to the garage lately.

 

Mark

[Ed260Z]

The name of the co. that I was thinking about is Lokar, but they don't make what you need. I found this by surfing the web, and I think that this is what you are talking about.

http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/master_cylinder_systems.html

It's designed to fit between the frame rails of a body on frame set up. But if yor doing a full cage I'm sure that you can make it work.

[660Z]

I thought it was Lokar you were trying to remember so I checked them out. I looked at that setup but I`m still running the datsun unibody and ground clerance is still an issue. Im only replacing the engine frame rails and adding a cage with some improved stuceral modifications like recessing the side exhaust into the body and reshaping the frame connectors for example.

 

That pedal is made for the UP to 50`s streetrods and is really big, but thanks for the info! You did give me another idea on how to mount the M/C, acually I have quite a few ideas but won`t know until I dig into it on which one will work.

 

Mark

[Mayolives]

I am using a Wilwood pedal kit (#340-3950) with remote mounted master cylinders. We haven't decided where to mount them yet but they will probably be inside and away from my feet. This will make them easy to maintain, keep the foot area dry and free of spills and clean up the firewall. I will post some pictures soon.

[karay240]

yes, there's a company that makes a great setup. . . you will, however, have to pay out the @$$ for it. Here's the link:

 

http://tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=8&m=b

[Ed260Z]

Willwood also makes a reverse mount M/C with remote res.

 

I don't see anyway you can mount the M/C anywere but the firewall. Mounting it under the floor will give you ground clearence issues. And from what I can see there is no other way.

[JMortensen]

It's just like the stock pedals. You can't just attach the pedals to nothing, you have to have a frame to hang that assy from. On the stock Z that frame is the pedal box. On my friend's 510 he built a frame out of 1/2" square stock that had maybe 6 attachment points to the firewall (he used stock dash attachment points. Then he tested it for deflection when he stepped on the pedal. It was a little flexy so he reinforced some more and finally got it stiff enough. So its about as far from bolt on as you can get. I'd imagine it would be a little easier to do if you had a full cage with a dash bar going across.

[mark]

yes' date=' there's a company that makes a great setup. . . you will, however, have to pay out the @$$ for it. Here's the link:

 

http://tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=8&m=b[/quote']

 

 

That won't fit in a Z car. Ask me how I know. The restocking fee was not pleasant.

[karay240]

Hey mark, I'd really be really interested in knowing what problems you're encountered. I am/WAS interested in this setup, and I'm not really a big fan of restocking fees.

 

Besides, hopefully this will serve as good info to others that may be thinking about the setup.

 

thanks for any info.

[mark]

Hey mark' date=' I'd really be really interested in knowing what problems you're encountered. I am/WAS interested in this setup, and I'm not really a big fan of restocking fees.

 

Besides, hopefully this will serve as good info to others that may be thinking about the setup.

 

thanks for any info.[/quote']

 

The pedals mount to the floor. The masters mount between the pedals and the firewall. This will put the pedals about 3 or 4 inches closer to the seat even if you use the short masters. Not a good driving position when you take in account the steering wheel and seat position. Maybe if you had really really short legs and very long arms.....

[KAZU]

with subaru column.

[karay240]

hey mark, I guess whole seating position thing is very subjective, but was the positioning to the point where the seat couldn't go any further? B/c right now on my 240SX, I have a type of steering wheel spacer (about 2 inches), b/w the boss/hub and the steering wheel, and was wondering if this type of spacer would be able to solve the problem.

 

The shifter might need to be modified a little, but that's not that big of a deal. It's just really nice to have the adjustability these pedals offer. Of course, it'll also clean up the engine bay quite a bit, too.