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Double A arm Front Suspension


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Interesting read that article. But maybe the point is that there is no one ideal geometry setup, rather all setups are a comprmise, depending on the criteria that a particular designer takes in order of importance. That article would have been more informative if it had discussed this and given an indication as to which way the design went.

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the main thing with the msutang II is that the suspension is made for hot rods, most being cars that came originaly with horible suspension, or even beam front axels, so the the double controll arm designe works great as a replacement for thes types of cars beacue you dont need to fab in any upper strut locating points, the whole suspension is contained! it will cruise on the highway or around town way better than than the chevy II suspension or a model A beam axel, but it is by no means a performance design, and therefor, it would be cheaper and mor benificial to just use the stock datsun suspension. I personaly went with a corvette c-4 front end for a front double a arm design for a performance aplication

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You guys should go here and do some light reading before bashing the idea.

 

http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/54298/

 

Not that I want to get into a pissing match about this but the article doesn't have any real info other than they fixed bumpsteer. If you go to the site mentioned you won't find any tech info about the suspension. This does look to be nicer than the piece I looked at closely. I don't put much faith into anything written in magazines anymore as most articles aren't much more than an advetorial.

 

I know I sound negative on this but what I'm trying to stress is that there's more to picking a suspension than just bolting on a few parts -- no matter how they are made. Could you fab one of these up to a Z and make it work. I'm pretty sure the answer to that would be a definite yes. But would it make the car any faster than an optimized strut setup -- that I'm not so sure of.

 

Cary

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Not that I want to get into a pissing match about this but the article doesn't have any real info other than they fixed bumpsteer. If you go to the site mentioned you won't find any tech info about the suspension. This does look to be nicer than the piece I looked at closely. I don't put much faith into anything written in magazines anymore as most articles aren't much more than an advetorial.

 

I know I sound negative on this but what I'm trying to stress is that there's more to picking a suspension than just bolting on a few parts -- no matter how they are made. Could you fab one of these up to a Z and make it work. I'm pretty sure the answer to that would be a definite yes. But would it make the car any faster than an optimized strut setup -- that I'm not so sure of.

 

Cary

 

It would only be a pissing match if i knew what i was talking about.:)

 

But i look through the posts here and all i see is "A" is crap or "B" is crap but no one is saying that "C","D", or "E" is better and why. I don't see anyone offering tech info against this suspension or tech info for another suspension or tech info for the stock suspension. Just opinions. And my only contribution is that it "looks" sweet, which it does. And that's the extent of my expertize.

 

Personally, I think that my factory piss ant stamped steel lower arm, held in place with the piss ant T/C rod no bigger than my pinkie, looks like crap and scares the $h!t out of me every time i peek under there. Talk about bolt on and pray. And i'm no engineer, but that rod looks to be more of a C rod than a T rod, unless you plan on hitting a pothole going 60mph backwards. It's a lot easier to collapse a soda straw than pull it appart. Several people on here have had a rod break while driving. I'd hate to get a bend in mine for whatever reason (fatigue, curb, etc) and then she decides to fold when i'm nailing the brakes hard from 108mph at the end of the quarter mile.

 

Pretty sure the Mustang II front doesn't conform to the Ackerman or others school of design but i'm also pretty sure that front end's not gonna get it's a$$ kicked by a 3" deep pothole or hard braking and put me in a ditch or against a wall at the track or worse.

 

Later,

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Yeah, but a soda straw is very strong (for its weight) in compression up to the point that any bending occurs, and that is the idea of the T/C rod. Failure of the rods are extremely rare, and if I correctly interpret the few posting of failures, they may be more related to the polyurethane bushing use, and not of their design. As long as the rod can pivot freely to stay aligned with the compressive forces, it will work.

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True,

 

but i was thinking if it ever got a slight bend in it, say from a curb or foreign object kicked up on the highway, and it went unnoticed or repaired, then it would be much weaker.

 

I just wonder when i look under there why didn't they run the rod forward. Then it would always be in tension under a load or shock. A little less worries for me.

 

Oh, and i have the front poly bushings, and i read the threads about the added binding and it made me worry even more. More than i do about global warming, but not enough to lose sleep over it.:):)

 

I love the ideas on HybridZ about the custom tubular lower arms and the heim ends on those and the T/C rods. I'm knowledgeable enough and handy enough to do that, and may some day, but some can't or won't do it. With all the companies doin' the custom front ends and competing with each other, i'm sure the better ones have tackled the problems with the original design. With enough research joe shmoe could find one that fit most of his needs and answered his questions about it.

 

And it may all be hype and advertorials doin it, but a lot of people are puttin' these crappy designed pieces of junk underneath some 40,80, and $100k rides, so i pretty sure it would be good enough for me to get to and from the track and around the Sonic drive in with it.

 

Take Care,

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