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Above where the oil filter screws on the are 2 threaded holes in the block.

 

One has a boss associated with it as if something mounted there.

 

The other is in a recess the is about half as big as your fist. The bottom of the recess is the top of where the oil filter installs. I am chasing an oil leak and wonderred if anyone knew what these hole s were for. Maybe I missed plugging something.

 

 

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.weinlemotorsports.com/DartProducts/SBC/SBC_LittleM_Block_Top.jpg&imgrefurl=http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rebuild-Small-Block-350-400-V8-Chevrolet-Chevy-Truck_W0QQitemZ8004930907QQcategoryZ34222QQcmdZViewItem&h=566&w=900&sz=87&tbnid=K2ygOfLR-iiArM:&tbnh=91&tbnw=145&hl=en&start=2&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dsbc%2B350%2Bblock%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26rls%3DDVXB,DVXB:2005-50,DVXB:en%26sa%3DN

 

The 2 holes above the oil filter boss in the picture

 

 

 

 

Thanks

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I used pipe plug fittings for the holes that were direct access to oil ports. The one highest up looks like a boss for mounting a bracket for a slave cylinder. Just confirm that the hole bottoms out at the end and doesn't go into an oil passage. After running that motor, you will see places you need to plug.

 

Mike

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I always like reading your posts and seeing your progress. I have all the videos and show my friends regular. See what a Z can do!!

 

It is also very reassuring to watch you guys put the stress on the rear end and half shafts. Helps me to understand the engineering limits so that I am comfortable with my setup.

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And all.

 

what is the trick to tgetting the valve covers to seal. I am having a devil of a time. Maybe the cheapos 2 pieces I bought. Anyway I am tracking an oil leak from top to bottom. I do see oil leaking from the valve covers near the rear where it pools before dropping down the recess. I bought another gasket set. also I am using the "spreaders" under the lower valve cover bolts nut not on top. Just wanted to know if there are any tricks as this is my first sbc.

 

After I get that fixed we will see where else we are hemorhagging from. I havent ruled out the rear seal. I had to plow through this conversion but I figure that once I get it to certain point, running and streetable, it would be easier to go back and pull the motor and tranny to fix the seal if necessary.

 

Anyway once I stop marking my territory I will feel better.

 

thanks

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And all.

 

what is the trick to tgetting the valve covers to seal? I am having a devil of a time. Maybe the cheapos 2 pieces I bought... also I am using the "spreaders" under the lower valve cover bolts nut not on top...

 

1)You might be torquing them down too hard, causing the flange(s) to bend.

2)You might have some kind of obstruction with the intake manfold against the valve cover ---- you should check that.

3)You might have uneven flanges on the valve covers that contribute to the leak.

4)You might have an unusually uneven surface on the head(s) that makes for a bad seal (I'm reaching here...)

5)You might need some gaskets that have the metal compression rings that keep you from overtightening.

6)I'm still thinking about what else...

 

HTH

 

Davy

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I only use aluminum transmission pans and valve covers because they are cast or fabricated of thick material making them hard to bend and they seal very well. I have found that with steel pans and covers they will almost always deflect no matter what gaskets or torque you use even if you use load spreaders. I use sillicone gaskets with metal shims to keep from "pinching out" the gasket and always use manufacturers torque specs.

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I only use aluminum transmission pans and valve covers because they are cast or fabricated of thick material making them hard to bend and they seal very well. I have found that with steel pans and covers they will almost always deflect no matter what gaskets or torque you use even if you use load spreaders. I use sillicone gaskets with metal shims to keep from "pinching out" the gasket and always use manufacturers torque specs.

 

 

Yes,the cast aluminum ones are less flexible. That is one reason I like them. You have to have the intake centered or you'll run into possible clearance problems with the intake and valve covers.

 

The silicone gaskets with the shims is what I was trying to convey in my last post. "Shims" not "compression rings". They are a great idea !

 

Davy

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok

 

The majority 99.99% of the oil is coming from the valve covers. I have done everything I can think of. I am going to sell these and get some others.

 

What kind should I buy?

 

I like the 2 piece for easy valve adjustment.

 

Cast ALuminum?

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What kind should I buy?

 

I like the 2 piece for easy valve adjustment.

 

Cast ALuminum?

 

Cast aluminum all the way as far as I'm concerned. You could go steel, but that's a preference choice you have to make. I prefer cast, but that's me. I'm sure there are guys in this forum that use steel and make them work properly as well.

 

Davy

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks for all input.

 

I got those cheap valve covers to seal usiing what is locally referred to as "Monkey Snot". 3M Weather stripping adhesive for autos. It comes in a red and white tube/box and is yellow in color. It cures to a rubbery finish. Probably and old trick but a very good one indeed. Sealed gasket to valve cover and gasket to head as they are 2 piece valve covers.

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