BlackBeaut Posted February 24, 2006 Share Posted February 24, 2006 Stout I agree, not that light as it's steel, not vastly heavier than the stock piece though. I know what you're saying about the inside corners but plan is/was to weld square section steel there so it needed to be square. I might weld up a radius in there and clean it up with a grinder if I go another way with my diff cradle. Oh, and obviously I can't take credit for the machining, a local shop did it for me. I still can't quite justify buying a milling machine for the amount of work I'd use it for. Cheers, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted December 17, 2006 Author Share Posted December 17, 2006 I added the pics to my initial post.... check em out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted December 25, 2006 Share Posted December 25, 2006 I still can't quite justify buying a milling machine for the amount of work I'd use it for. Oh, come on now! Justification for machine tools never hinges on the amount of work you will do with it, it rests solely on the fact that you need it for just this one project honey, and I'm sure I will use it on lots of other stuff once we have it here at the house! Really! When does logic come into the purchase of machine tools? Hell, I bought one, and still have to wire it up two years later... But is sure looks nice! I have seen cracks on the front crossmember in the past, yep, on solid mounted diffies. Cracked moustache bars as well, usually cracks coming from the holes for the rear differential mounting studs. Almost every R180 car I have picked up recently has had loose moustache mounting bolts as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buZy Posted December 25, 2006 Share Posted December 25, 2006 My thoughts. I agree the old z metal fatique theroy add rust and it just gets worse. The typical aftermarket solid mount is not good. A complete joke really. All that energy on one single fastener, seating nut and or washer. Surface area none. It's amazing the xmember lasts that long. An unbalanced driveline can't help either. Iso mounted to spread the load out is the key. The ron tyler mount rocks. But lets take it a step further if we dare.....Design an incorporated trapping bottom xmember to go along with it. A sound design that could be print documented. Steel fab, oem mod or alum cnc. Great idea for azc or?. I bet it would sell. We modified an oem to do just this and it worked perfect...but to document it for reproduction is another story. If someone pulled it off....Maybe the pinion adjustablity issue with no two cars alike not to mention custom motor swaps might make it impossible to market without mindless people complaining. Often wonder about soild diff mounted rear ends. It's different every time. Some cars I have rode in you can't tell much at all being very quiet and smooth while others sing like a raped bird. Would it be safe to say incorrect DS angles have alot to with vibrations felt once soild mounts are installed? With road miles this to me would cause cracking issues just as much as doing drag style hard launches. Just a thought. I'll shut up now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted December 25, 2006 Share Posted December 25, 2006 The ron tyler mount rocks. But lets take it a step further if we dare.....Design an incorporated trapping bottom xmember to go along with it Like this perhaps: Not obvious in this photo are the shims above the differential. These can be increased or decreased to lower or raise the nose of the differential. Whatever amount is removed from the top, must be inserted at the bottom between the aluminum bracket and the differential itself. These pieces are attached to the differential with 9/16" bolts. The front two (of the 4 holes on the front of the long nose differential) were tapped for 9/16" threads. Then separate bolts held the differential to the RT mount, and another set of bolts held the lower part to the OEM crossmember through a separate aluminum bracket. The main reason I went through this was to have the differential solidly held in place while still being able to completely remove the rear suspension. And yes, the rear mount IS solid as well (aluminum plate). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buZy Posted December 25, 2006 Share Posted December 25, 2006 Very Nice work Terry! Here is ours. The shimming pinion concept is the same. Also we shimmed the azc rear mount a bit to keep the pinion parallel while holding a desired driveshaft angle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gretchen/jason Posted December 29, 2006 Share Posted December 29, 2006 Where can one get solid mustache bar mounts as i have a solid front diff mount my self with new eurthane mustache bushings . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjhines Posted December 31, 2006 Author Share Posted December 31, 2006 The stock mustache bar IS A SPRING... It cannot be stiff enough... even if you weld the ears to the body... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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