Guest Trudge Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 I have a Lincoln 125 Mig welder that I want to use to weld sheet metal like on the Z's body panels but I don't know what size wire or how much heat to use. I keep blowing holes when joining the edge of two panels. I must use flux wire because I don't have the Argon gas attachment. What size wire? How Much Heat? Thanks.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lighft01 Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 I use the .035 width in my mig welder, its flux core, and it works fine. Ill have to check my heat setting when i get home though, havent welded anything in a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 Generally with body panels you need to put tack welds since the metal is so thin. Put one every 1 1/2 to 2 inches then go back up one in between those and so forth untill it looks like you have one continuous bead, then dress the weld. Most body shops just 2 passes of tacks then dress and then seam seal it and bondo and paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Trudge Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 Most body shops just 2 passes of tacks then dress and then seam seal it and bondo and paint. What do you mean by "Seam Seal"? Is that a specific type of filler? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaleMX Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 Generally with body panels you need to put tack welds since the metal is so thin. Put one every 1 1/2 to 2 inches then go back up one in between those and so forth untill it looks like you have one continuous bead, then dress the weld. Most body shops just 2 passes of tacks then dress and then seam seal it and bondo and paint. That sound's good to me, you can control the heat like that and keep the panel from warping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 What do you mean by "Seam Seal"? Is that a specific type of filler? Well what I mean buy seam seal (I went sealer) is, I'm sure you 've seen it already. You know the stuff that covers the welded areas in the interior, like the lower panel right behind the seats. You can see some type of goop that covers wehre it would have been welded, that stuff. Its to prevent water and stuff from seeping through. All you really need to do is what I mentioned that the body shops do, but I get paranoid when I skimp on stuff like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5foot2 Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 evenly spaced tacks all along the seam, space the tacks out and move around along the seam. the goal is to minimize localized heat. by tack I mean just enough heat to melt the spot in front of your gun with full penetration. do not leave an open seam. weld it all, it will take some time. when you dress down the weld seam use a light touch. Flap disks in a 4.5" grinder work well. you can get them in grits from 36 to 120. if your not careful, the grinder will warp the panel just as badly as the welding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 evenly spaced tacks all along the seam' date=' space the tacks out and move around along the seam. the goal is to minimize localized heat. by tack I mean just enough heat to melt the spot in front of your gun with full penetration. do not leave an open seam. weld it all, it will take some time. when you dress down the weld seam use a light touch. Flap disks in a 4.5" grinder work well. you can get them in grits from 36 to 120. if your not careful, the grinder will warp the panel just as badly as the welding.[/quote'] Good point, forgot to mention that. And if you see the metal start to expand and not line up right, use a propaine torch and heat that area just so it STARTS to change color then use a COLD wet rag and cover it for about 10 seconds and repeat if needed. It will help "shrink" the metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BWRex Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 I've got the same welder,and I'd invest the $ and get the Argon tank/hookup especially for the thin stuff.So much easier and a cleaner weld.Make sure the kit comes with the .025 spool,(No flux core)tips,and shielding nozzle.Read the instructions,(label on inside door of welder)you have to switch the leads inside,as well.All's I have to say is practice,practice,practice.Get some scrap the same thickness and practice on that to adjust your heat before going for it.Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zhadman Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 You know the stuff that covers the welded areas in the interior Body Dope... that's what we call it. http://www.autobodysupply.net/store/defaultin.asp?CategoryID=12&usg=52013C45-7C52-4ABB-AC0E-052F30F11C46 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Some-Guy Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 hey guys I asked our welder what he thought and you dont need to use pure argon its way more expensive goto liquid aire and get some 25% argon 75% CO2 works just fine for mig pure argon is generaly for stainless and aluminum TIG welding! i forget what the actual mix's are called but they will know liquid air pretty good. And use .020 or .025 for body panels you'll get the best result and keap the heat pretty low I dont know the settings depends on the welder Just get some scrap and practice!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Trudge Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 You guys are great! I was going to have the body shop do the work because I was a bit aprehensive over the thought of any more sheet metal welding. A few years ago I filled the holes where the side molding was rivited and that was an eye opening experience for a novice welder like myself. But this forum has inspired me to try it again. My 77Z is in real good shape and the only rust it has is the passenger side lower rear quarter and that is the part I am going to attempt to repair. I've pounded out the replacement parts and they look pretty good. I'll post some pics of the before and after. I purchased the gas kit today. Thanks for all this advise. Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 Just remeber to use NON-galvinized metal. the galvinized part turns to a vapor when heated and if inhaled, can give you heavy metal poisoning, which could kill you. If you happen to inhale some and get sick (feel flue like symptoms) Drink LOTS and LOTS of milk for about a week. The milk helps pass the toxins out of your body. And of course consult a doctor if it ever does happen. Had a bad experience once when my resperator for my welding mask failed and had a leak when I was welding some fence outside. Too much heat and a failed resperator = bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 hey guys I asked our welder what he thought and you dont need to use pure argon its way more expensive goto liquid aire and get some 25% argon 75% CO2 works just fine for mig pure argon is generaly for stainless and aluminum TIG welding! i forget what the actual mix's are called but they will know liquid air pretty good. And use .020 or .025 for body panels you'll get the best result and keap the heat pretty low I dont know the settings depends on the welder Just get some scrap and practice!! You transposed the ratios there, some-guy. "Argoshield" = "C25" = 25% CO2, 75% Argon = the basic mild-steel gas mix. Some people run pure CO2, which is cheap, but your weld will be hotter- which is bad in this instance, for sheet metal work. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SouthGaZX Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 since we are on the subject of welding.. i know anybody who goes to HF has seen this welder.. would it be worth buying? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=6271 says its reg 399 on sale for 199 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 I think it would be ok for body work, but I would want to get something witha better duty cycle for heavier stuff. Why spen money on something whe you know you're going to need a better one later (don't apply for everyone though). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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