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Degreed Cam


dapiper

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Flash news. Just degreed my old Racer Brown turbo grind and wow, what a difference. Was installed retarded 7 deg. Used dial indicator and degree wheel. Need cam timing map. Hardest part is fab of base for mag mount; used thermostat housing mtg bolts as pedestal.

 

Installed at 0 deg adv/ret (straight up) according to cam card. AZ adj sprocket read 3 deg adv side, although actually retarded 3 deg. Cam grinder probably wanted customer to install with 3 deg adv built in for low end torque and higher vacuum.

 

OBTW, be advised, my AZ sprocket reversed the adv/ret directions. Adv is to left of center 0 deg mark index line on sprocket. To adv cam, rotate cam CW relative to crank, i.e. in direction of engine rotation, which moves index line on sprocket to left of center on inscribed scale on aluminum hub. Each inscribed line is 2 deg at crank with 5 lines each side of 0, hence can adv/ret up to 10 deg.

 

Performance improvement was amazing. Pulls much better; less lag during acceleration. Grabs revs very quickly now and no traction. More RPM and vacuum at idle.

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Just out of curiosity, did you make sure the duration (advertised) was correct, and the opening AND closing points of the cam were correct. And did you check the intake and the exhaust lobes?

What valve lash did you end up using?

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Will try to sked dyno next week sson as weather breaks. Now have to retune since running lean due to greater volume air.

 

Yeah, checked all that and amazingly enough it all matched cam card and was reproducible.

 

Lash is 0.006"I/0.008"E cold at valve.

 

Tell thumper to take a chill pill b4 show time or "yer fired"

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JeffP now feels vindicated that even a Racer Brown cam needs to be DEGREED when installed.

 

EVERY cam needs to be degreed! If nothing else, getting it "as designed" as a baseline. Then make the runs retarded and advanced to see where the most useable power is occurring---most power under the curve.

 

It DOES make a difference!

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