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For all that think Centerforce clutches are good


EZ-E

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Well, I have to update this.

 

I hit the strip at SEZ with my new 325/50-15 Mickey Thompson ET Street radials and my Spec Stage 3+ clutch didn't make it through 2nd gear. Something in the clutch must have broken (I will pull it in the next few days and report) because the car will hardly move under its own power now.

 

FWIW, No one at SEZ with experience with SPEC Clutches had anything good to say about them.

 

The consensus among drag racers there was that ACT is the best. I will be getting the Clutch Specialties setup with ACT pressure plate and sintered iron sprung disc a la TimZ.

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  • 1 month later...

Well i swear by my centerforce clutches.. but i don't run them with turbos either. I run a stage 2 not the dual friction.. and i swear by it... even when 3/4 of the material was gone from the disc.. it drove me around for 2 weeks... never slipped and didn't burn the flywheel.

 

Honestly you never woulda guessed it was bad except for the slight chimmy out of first.

 

The only reason it broke was cause it sat for 5 years.

-Ed

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Maybe the weird " sometimes it hold and sometimes it fails" issue is due to the kind of tires you'r using, for people with less sticky tires, when you let go at 3000, your tires skid for a little while, softening the stress in the drive train. For those with supergumballs, well if the tire has an higher breaking point than the clutch guess what? That "not so good for hard lauches" clutch will give way. OR, could it be from the fact that centerforce was braought to life (I think) with the rise of the rice and mainly had their efforts concentrated on drag? That would make their centrifugal weights effective only at stupid high for a "DRIVEN" car no?

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  • 4 weeks later...

Funny thing is people on here were saying Keisler Engineering was selling Sachs clutchs for their TKO600 s behind big blocks.

 

When I told them my application, he said he thought it was on the edge of the Sachs 600 ft-lb clutch (10.5") and suggested a SPEC 2+. He said they've been selling the SPEC clutches for 9 months without ONE problem or comeback. I ordered the Speck Stage 2+, as it's good for 650+ lbft.

 

My theory is that the Datsun disc is so small in diameter it's being much mre stressed than many of these musclecar clutches and that's why they are failing.

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I think PPraska is on to something with that one. I called up Bay City Clutch (a local drivetrain shop that builds custom clutch components for decent prices) when I first got my z to see if they could build me a clutch that could hold 300 or so hp on the non-turbo sized flywheel (because that's the one I had), and the guy laughed when he heard what the disc diameter was. He told me he'd look into it and call me back, and then he never called me back. I suspect he didn't take me seriously, but I can't be sure...

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We have had our CF DF clutch in for 8K hard driven and raced mile with no problems at all. These include countless dragstrip 4K launches with drag radials and pretty much every shift around town done at 6500 and slammed into the next gear. Its grabbing today just as well as it did when it was installed.

 

As noted in post above mine also, I also have a CF DF in my 600 hp Pontiac and the clutch is fine after 3 years of hard driving/racing.

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Technique problem maybe, some people ar e harder on the machine than others, I remember when i was a bit yonger, me and severals of my friends had RABBITS and we were practicly all build the same way since back then, there was about only neuspeed that made real parts and some cars always broke and some were astonishingly reliable for beaters like that so, we concluded that it was probably due to driving styles.

 

What'd y'all think??

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