tsumner Posted August 3, 2000 Share Posted August 3, 2000 I am looking for coilovers.Can any one recomend a good sorce? Also what length,strength springs would you recomend? I plan on buying a wheel,tire combo like those on Scotty GNZ'S car. The car is a 78 280 with 350-700r4 combo,it will be run on the street. [This message has been edited by tsumner (edited August 02, 2000).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted August 3, 2000 Share Posted August 3, 2000 Scroll back through this section and check topics... We have covered this one a ton of times and your answers are in this category! Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsumner Posted August 4, 2000 Author Share Posted August 4, 2000 quote: Originally posted by Mikelly: Scroll back through this section and check topics... We have covered this one a ton of times and your answers are in this category! Mike I am looking for input regarding the coilover conversion itself. I found a kit offered on zcar.com with 4,5,7or8,inch threaded sleeves with 2.5" (any length)spring and any pound rating. What length sleeve and spring combo have others used? I have ordered tokico adjustable shocks, I'm looking for a firm ride but, not race car firm. [This message has been edited by tsumner (edited August 03, 2000).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted August 4, 2000 Share Posted August 4, 2000 I'd use the 8 inch threaded sleeve, as it adds a bit of support to the housing unit. I'd go with 175-200# springs in the front, and 200-225# springs in the rear. If you have the option, make the springs a progressive rate Vs. straight rate... For those who don't know what I'm talking about.. Progressive rate springs have lighter weight compression of the spring (More comfortable) at the top end of the spring load (Less load on the spring and easier to compress thru the 1st 1/3 of the travel) for daily "regular" use. However, as you hammer it into an off ramp, the more the spring compresses, the stiffer the spring gets, which means you get more performance from the spring as load is applied to the springs (2nd 1/3rd is transitional from the lighter to the stiffer weight), which helps with individual tire performance as well. Progressive rate springs will have two weights associated with them vs. one on a straight rate spring. This is of particular help on the street where road surfaces are much more unpredictable, with manhole covers, potholes, and bridge seems. This allows for better suspension performance at each corner, allowing each tires to respond to the patch of asphault in its direct path. I have used progressive rate springs to autoX on and they work well. True, straight rate springs are nice for racing, but I think for day in, day out use.... Go with progressive rates... Mike "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited August 04, 2000).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsumner Posted August 5, 2000 Author Share Posted August 5, 2000 Thanks Mike, thats the info I was looking for.I'll order my parts on monday. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted August 6, 2000 Share Posted August 6, 2000 I would like to ask the complementary question: if the stock spring and strut assembly is retained, what does that do to the possible choices of wheels and tires? Or, phrased another way, is it true that in the rear, coilovers do not afford any greater tire clearance advantages? I would eventually like to run large diameter (28" or greater), large width slicks. The olny Z's that I've seen with such tires were back-halved. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 6, 2000 Share Posted August 6, 2000 Michael, I think you've got that backwards on the rear coilover issue. That is a way of getting a wider tire and wheel (not much tough) on the Z, as you can move the inboard part of the tire and wheel more inboard than with the stock spring perch in the way. Check out my site and the Wheels and Tires link to see the particulars of this setup. P.S. So you have the SUPER SETBACK Rat motor Z on the road!? Tell us more! ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@home.com">pparaska@home.com - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted August 6, 2000 Share Posted August 6, 2000 I seem to recall that in the back the longer spring moves the lower perch DOWN and that this is what gives you more room - yes? I've been pondering coilovers myself actually. I'll be moving to a 5lug setup and had hoped to run something like a Mustang sized wheel. Some of these are 17X8 and I'm not sure that I can fit an 8inch wheel with the stock coils - can I? I'm also considering sticking with a 16inch diameter wheel and not going over say 225 - can you go much wider than that with stock wheel wells? I figure I'll swap over to the 5lug and move my 17X7 wheels off the Mustang onto the Z to see what sorts of "issues" I run into This is all aways down the road as I want it running before I do the 5lug swap so I'm simply trying to look ahead some. So far I've got no idea what wheels I'll run and hope to find something like the neat wheels the Honda guys run I did have someone send me his sizes and pics of his car with late model RX7 wheels. Not too shabby actually except they were 16s and have the Mazda logo on them. At least maybe that'll help come purchase time... P.S. Where are folks sourcing their coil overs? Ground Control, a guy in Washington State, and where else? $400 seems to be about the going rate with some being much higher with camber adjustments etc. Have yet to see variable rate springs in a coilover for the Z. [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited August 05, 2000).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted August 6, 2000 Share Posted August 6, 2000 I am currently running an 8 inch wide wheel all the way around with zero offset. I could put a 9 inch wheel back there and clear the strut and spring assembly, but I'd have problems with the tires clearing the fender. In the front I have 225-50s and the tire is just about 1/4 inch wider than the fender. Not desirable in my opinion. My plan is to either get fender flares up frontr or get a new fiberglass front clip... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Posted August 6, 2000 Share Posted August 6, 2000 Pete, Actually, I think we're talking about the same thing. In particular, I'm referring to page 16-14 of the JTR book (6th printing). I wanted to get the largest backspacing possible, being fully aware that the tires will still stick out from the rear fenders, and that the fenders will have to be cut. That was for structural reasons, to keep the wheel's mounting face not too far inboard of the wheel centerplane. JTR says that coilovers increase room for additional backspacing in the front, but are of no help in the rear. I wanted to confirm their comments. The plan is to get Centerline 15x10 wheels for the rear, with 4", 4 1/2", or 5" backspacing (I need to decide which!), and 28.5x12.5-15 Mickey Thompson "Sportsman Pro" Tires. That's the drag racing setup. The "street" setup I haven't yet thought about. Would you happen to know the thickness of a stock 280Z brake drum? If I understand your web page correctly, the maximum backspacing for a 17" wheel is 149mm minus the difference in thickness between the stock drum and your setup's "hat"? I'll post something about my "set-back Rat" Z in the non-tech forum next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted August 7, 2000 Share Posted August 7, 2000 All, I went through a learning experience with the coilover setup which I would like to pass along. I originally purchased Design Racing Products ( out of CA ) camber plates. Very good quality and well made - great right - well not so fast. I ordered Tokico Illumina struts from another source and when they arrived I started on the rear suspension and stopped dead in my tracks. Here is the problem in using this brand of Camber/strut combo. The spherical bearing used in the DP plates has a 7/16" ID the Tokico Illumina strut shaft OD is approx. ¾". After making numerous calls and weighing the alternatives - not many, I returned the DP plates and am currently waiting for the Ground Control camber plates. The person I spoke to at GC (very nice and informative - need more businesses like them) said the Illumina's will fit their camber plates. I haven't received them yet so this still needs to be confirmed. My alternative, which DP said they would do (more $$) was to turn the shafts down on my new Tokico's (void any warrantee - I called Tokico). So if folks want to use DP camber plates go with a different strut and make sure you know the shafts dimension - not all the same - please someone tell me why not! Hopefully, this information will help others contemplating coilovers and some of the gotcha's. Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted August 7, 2000 Share Posted August 7, 2000 That is very good info to know.... Good question about the diameter, as I would have assumed they were the same as well.... Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 8, 2000 Share Posted August 8, 2000 Michael, about the Datsun drum: I don't have any available, but I recall them looking like they were between 1/8" and 3/16" in thickness at the bolting flange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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