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Huger header burn up spark plug wire prob


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Hi all,

Anyone using the huger headers have a problem with them burning up the spark plug boot/wire? A friend of mine has an SBC with block huger headers and they keep burning up the boots and wires for the spark plugs. It even caught on fire 2 weeks ago as a result of the clutch fluid leaks out onto the oil cooler lines. I talked to some local guys and they said to put a few dents to the header pipe whereever they touch the spark plug boot. Thanks for any info

Vinh

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Hi all' date='

Anyone using the [b']hugger[/b] headers have a problem with them burning up the spark plug boot/wire? A friend of mine has an SBC with block hugger headers and they keep burning up the boots and wires for the spark plugs. It even caught on fire 2 weeks ago as a result of the clutch fluid leaks out onto the oil cooler lines. I talked to some local guys and they said to put a few dents to the header pipe whereever they touch the spark plug boot. Thanks for any info

Vinh

Two options. Either get the headers coated or run spark plug boot insulators or both.

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The same happened to me on the initial motor break in. I had about an eighth clearance between the boot and the header. After replacing the bad wires I wrapped the boot end with heat reflective tape and that fixed the problem. Now that the engine is more or less broken and the timing is set, the headers don't get that hot. They were glowing bright red during break in.

 

My shorty headers were kind of a pain to dimple. It's hard to get a nice angle on the area that needs to be clearanced.

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I have ceramic coated Hooker block hugger headers with 90 degree Taylor silicone wires and, after several thousand miles, the wires look like new. I believe the main reason for this is the excellent insulating properties of the ceramic. You can't do too much if your headers aren't coated because things are going to get hot.

 

Mike Mileski

Tucson, AZ

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I have ceramic coated Hooker block hugger headers with 90 degree Taylor silicone wires and' date=' after several thousand miles, the wires look like new. I believe the main reason for this is the excellent insulating properties of the ceramic. You can't do too much if your headers aren't coated because things are going to get hot.

 

Mike Mileski

Tucson, AZ[/quote']

 

i was worried about this, good thing i went with the ceramic sanderson huggers, but they still get very hot

 

I bought those expensive fancy spark plug wire heat reflective condoms, that thick soft heat wrap things, and put them around each wire end and i hope it does the trick, they were like $70 for the set of 8 condoms. There are a few wires with these on that are actually touching hte header because the wires were shorter then i thought and i had to stretch them out, but with these things on i hope it keeps them from melting

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Is it the boots where they touch the tubes, or is it the wires themselves on the header? You have to get the wires off the header. I really like Taylor wires, and I but pre-made ones usually. Get the 71-72 Chevy truck with 350 ci motor if you run a socket cap or 75-81 Corvette wires with HEI cap. Use the stock routing which is down the back of the block, along the oil pan rail, and UP to each plug. These wires are designed for rams horns manifolds which are over the plug and not under like the log manifolds.

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I'm running Accel shorty plugs and 90* boot ends on the wires with ceramic headers (trick flow angle plug heads BTW). I burned one boot not bad but I replaced it anyway.

 

The Scarab has uncoated headers, angle plug X2 camel hump heads and wire condoms, no issues there either.

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My dart heads rest the plug boots right on the patriot shorty header but it's nothing that couldn't be fixed.

 

Shorty headers are kind of a pain to dimple. I had to get kind of creative with a press and a section of pipe used like a lever to be able to reach inside the area that needed to be dinged. You can use a ball been hammer but it makes it ugly.

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