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What F-Body parts are reusable?


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93TA and I discussed this Sun. afternoon but I wans't sure who all had used the fuel tank and other parts like that. I figured whatever fit he could basically strip off the TA and stick in the attic till he was ready to convert.

 

I'm thinking

 

Engine

Trans

Wireing (at least the enging maybe more)

Radiator and fan (fitment?)

Fuel tank / pump / sending unit (I'm pretty sure someone had done this here)

Guages? (I'm not familiar w/ any of the TA guages)

 

Others I'm missing?

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In my LS1/T56 we used the following from the Z-28 Camaro:

1) Engine

2) Transmission,

3) Engine Wiring Harness

4) ECM

5) Radiator fans & shroud,

6) Driveshaft - use front end for fitting T56, modify back for differential.

7) AC components

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Gauges are going to be a BIG decision area for you. Obviously there is no way that the TA gauges are going to fit in the S30 dash in any form that resembles OEM. You can pay about $50-$100 to have your tachometer converted to take the V-8 signal insted of the I-6 signal and give you a correct read-out. If you already have a fuel injected S30 you can use the stock tank, supply and return lines and be OK - you'll just ahve to upsize the fuel pump. THat will allow you to run the stock fuel tank sender. Separate locations can be identified on the LT1 to mount Nissan Oil pressure and engine temperature sensors for those gauges which now only leaves the speedometer. Does your T56 have a mechanical or electronic output? If mechanical, you can change the gears to have the right output for your mechanical drive speedo. If it is an electronic output you have three options.

1) Buy and aftermarket electronic speedometer - and then figure out what to do with your brake warning light and turn signal indicatiors, 2) have the T56 converted to the proper mechanical output for your car/speedometer (about $400), or 3) buy a CableX converter that converts the electronic signal from the T56 to an output signal to a small ecectric motor that drives a cable for your stock speedometer for about $250. I have option 3 but, if I could do it over, I'd go for option 2.

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Gotcha. Well IF I bought an electrical Autometer Speedo, Tach, Fuel Level, Oil Pressure, and Water Temp guages, they would all hook up fine right? No big issues?

 

I think all T56s are electrical speed sensor btw... or at least that is the impression i've always had, and therefore assumed mine is too.

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The S30 uses dual gauges so it has four gages in two holes. Even if you get rid of the clock which usually doesn't work anyway you still have four guages (fuel, water temp, oil press & voltmeter) for 3 holes. Which do you eliminate or mount remotely - and then - where?

What do you do about your turn signal indicatiors and brake warning light? Come up with another place to put them or eliminate them? This adds a lot more complexity to the conversion - or you decide to do without those items.

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The S30 uses dual gauges so it has four gages in two holes. Even if you get rid of the clock which usually doesn't work anyway you still have four guages (fuel' date=' water temp, oil press & voltmeter) for 3 holes. Which do you eliminate or mount remotely - and then - where?

What do you do about your turn signal indicatiors and brake warning light? Come up with another place to put them or eliminate them? This adds a lot more complexity to the conversion - or you decide to do without those items.[/quote']

 

Some of what you just said came across a little confusing. Are you asking where i'd put those 5 gauges i mentioned? speedo and tach behind wheel... other three mid-dash. Ask bill what his looks like. lol.

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For my conversion I used:

Engine

Trans

Driveshaft

Fuel tank

A/C stuff

Steering column

Engine & interior harnesses (inc. PCM, fuse blocks etc.)

Fans & shroud

Cruise control module

Brake & clutch pedal switches

Headlight switch

Horns

Foglights

Maybe the power antenna

 

There's mega hours of wiring to use the F-bod wiring harnesses, but everything else (except the inst. cluster) is a plug and play. If you're creative you could probably find a way to use the stock inst. cluster too, but for me it was easier to buy Autometer and do the wiring. Plus, the stock Datsun dash looks so much better.

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For my conversion I used:

Engine WILL DO

TransWILL DO

Driveshaft WILL DO

Fuel tank ANY INFO/LINKS?

A/C stuff "

Steering column "

Engine & interior harnesses (inc. PCM' date=' fuse blocks etc.)

Fans & shroud WILL DO

Cruise control module ANY INFO/LINKS?

Brake & clutch pedal switches ANY INFO/LINKS?

Headlight switch ANY INFO/LINKS?

Horns ANY INFO/LINKS?

Foglights ANY INFO/LINKS?

Maybe the power antenna MINE IS FIXED

 

There's mega hours of wiring to use the F-bod wiring harnesses, but everything else (except the inst. cluster) is a plug and play. If you're creative you could probably find a way to use the stock inst. cluster too, but for me it was easier to buy Autometer and do the wiring. Plus, the stock Datsun dash looks so much better.

 

Any extra links related to any of that stuff that I should bookmark for later?

 

Also, what all is involved with the wiring mentioned above. I'm fairly oblivious to the nature of car wiring.

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The location of the Speedometer and TAchometer are obvious. My discussion concerned the three spots on the dash where you currently have five devices:

Clock

fuel level

voltmeter

Water temp

Oil pressure

 

From what you said you plan to eliminate the clock and voltmeter? Since you haven't said anything about it I also assume you intend to do without turn signal indicators and the brake warning light?

 

Does the LT1 have an OBDI warning light? If so - do you intend to try to have that function or leave it off also??

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Get rid of the driver side vent and throw a gauge in there. You prob don't need a clock anyway. I had that done to mine and I will post better pics in my photo album. I know for sure 1tuffz has a pic of what it will look like. Hope this helps.

 

Clive

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93TA....

The best info to use is what's available here. Search out posts from Jeromio, Phantom, and other folks that have already finished what you're about to start. For things like the cruise, foglights, etc., I stayed with the F-body harness & plugs so it would all work together. My donor car was an 01 Camaro, which is probably different than the generation before. The bulk of the wiring I did was to put those two big underhood fuse boxes into the cubbies behind the seats, and the hiding all the engine bay wiring inside the air vent passages to the front of the car. By relocating the fuse boxes I had to extend all the wiring to reach headlights, horns, fans, etc. It's all easy, just time consuming. As for the gauges, get a factory service manual for your donor car and find the connector pinouts for the F-body gauges and work them one at a time to your new gauges. For my SES light, hi-beam indicator, turn signals, low oil, & low fuel warning lights, I used 12v LEDs mounted into the Autometer gauge panels. There's some posts here about how to do that. For me the biggest challange in the wiring was just the volumne of it all. All the wiring to the underdash fuse panel had to be shortened or deleted and pretty much everything else lengthened. I thought it would be worth the time to have a Chev steering column and have all the Camaro controls work, along with a tilt wheel. Lots of work!

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Tulsa, eh? That's where I got my car. The guy who owned it before worked at some theatre downtown, and the day I got there he was all excited that Bob Dylan had been out in the parking lot looking at the rusty hulk I was buying. Small world...

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Tulsa, eh? That's where I got my car. The guy who owned it before worked at some theatre downtown, and the day I got there he was all excited that Bob Dylan had been out in the parking lot looking at the rusty hulk I was buying. Small world...

 

Yeah.. hopefully there are still some Zs floating around Tulsa these days... I gotta find one!

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