Guest SBC_240z Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 hey guys, well, i must admist, welding 1/8" steel is MUCH EASIER then welding anything less then 24 gauge. Check out the welds guys and tell me how i might be able to improve. Running a Lincoln HD MIG and it seems to just blow through panels real quick. I don't understand, i have wire speed up to full blast, with a low power level. As you might have guessed, i am a noob when it comes to welding, atleast i am trying and learning every step of the way. So help a new welder out. Pictures below are of the steel cutouts for the shaving being taped so i can weld it and it be flush. So like i said, any advice would be GREAT !!! I NEED ALL THE HELP I CAN GET. EDIT: Yes, I am using flux Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBeaut Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 I'm pretty new at the welding game, only been working on thick steel really, body work yet to come. However this bit: "i have wire speed up to full blast" stands out, you should adjust the wire speed to suit the job - granted it may be in this case that full speed is the appropriate speed. Have you done any practice beads on bits of scrap metal of the same gauge so you can get the power and speed settings just right? What gauge metal are you using? 24 sounds very thin, like I said though I haven't got to body work yet so I may be in for some fun myself! Another thing is that you're doing butt welds which are pretty much the hardest as there isn't the metal around to soak up the heat and so blow through is difficult to avoid, however in the places you're working on I don't think it'd be possible to do a joggled overlap join. Finally, as I suspect you know, flux core wire doesn't produce the nicest welds to start with, and it burns hotter so more chance of burn through. Ideally you want to be running with gas, thin wire - 0.6mm/0.023" - and practice a bunch on scrap. Cheers, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SBC_240z Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 i practiced for a while on thicker stuff, and me being "impatient" decided to go for it. blow throughs can be easily fixed so i thought, what the hell and went for it. ideally, i wish i was using gas, but working outside the entire time, i found flux was a lot easier. butt welds aren't easy, and i have the speed all the way up, because, as fast as the blow through goes, i need that speed wire to get in there....understand what i am saying ??? or is it just a bunch of jumble ??? sorry, really tired.... anyways, everyday i am getting better and better and practicing more and more. thanks for the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paz8 Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 I would never call myself a welder but do have some experience. What size wire are you using? I find that flux core wire is very hard to use on thin sheet metal, as compared to small dia. wire with gas, the difference is like night and day. Mig welders are great but you need to weld CLEAN steel, use some fine sand paper or scotch pad to clean up. Even if you do everything right and the body panel is rusted bad on the back side where you can't see, it will blow through. Turn the wire speed down about half way, and make sure your ground clamp has a good contact. Just my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBeaut Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 butt welds aren't easy, and i have the speed all the way up, because, as fast as the blow through goes, i need that speed wire to get in there....understand what i am saying ??? or is it just a bunch of jumble ??? sorry, really tired.... When you're moving the torch along do you feel like the wire tip is constantly bouncing of the metal pushing the torch back in your hand? If so the wire speed is too high, if not and you've got an nice even burning arc then pretty much the best you can do is move along the join quicker. It helps no end that the areas you're working on are non-structural. Once the pieces are in place you'll be grinding the beads down and no doubt adding a little bondo stuff to smooth the works out, so it'll look great in the end. BTW are you putting little tack welds along the join an inch or so apart before going back to do the full length weld? Anyway, you'll definitely get there and pick up a useful skill on the way. Cheers, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Speedyblue Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 One tip is to put a piece of copper or perhaps aluminium behind the area being welded. It will support the back and help stop blow through, but the weld won't stick to it. Can someone confirm the metal type to use through, because I can't remember that well. Other than that, practice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHO-Z Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 This is for all of you without a welder. You can soft solder 50/50 or braze the trim holes and add a backing plate on the larger holes. It is the old school way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaime240z Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 Get rid of the flux wire. The smallest flux core wire you can get is .030 which is too big for the job. Invest in the gas set-up and run .023/.024 wire with C25 gas. It will make the job easier and look better too. The panels you are doing are roughly 18-20 guage. If your welder comes with a setting chart for this thickness use those settings as a starting point and fine tune your machine from there. Use alternating tack welds along the seams, you should be able to lay down short beads, but if you're getting alot of blow through you definitly want to stay away from trying to make long beads. A nice tool to have is one of these: Takes the guesswork out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SBC_240z Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 Hey Jaime, Thanks for both responses in both forums. where do u get that tool ? any welding shop? also, i am using .035 flux because that is what lincoln suggested on car sheet metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaime240z Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 Yeah welding shops might have that tool. I got the pic and tool from grizzly.com for 10 bucks. As for the wire, you will get much better results using .023 solid wire with C25 gas. Much less work when finishing (grinding/smoothing) the welds. Also, I believe flux core welds get a bit hotter, which will increase the chance of warpage on your panels. Also , as someone has already mentioned, a backing plate to dissipate heat will help too, but you could get by without one if you take your time and let the area cool between welding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SBC_240z Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 awesome.... anymore tips ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaime240z Posted April 26, 2006 Share Posted April 26, 2006 YEAH! Check out the forums at http://hobartwelders.com/mboard/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DemonZ Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 Use copper backing by cutting a piece of copper pipe and hammering it flat. Lap welds work better for thin stuff too, stronger, and easier. One of my favorite tools that I don't get to use enough is my pneumatic flanger. Flanger on one side, punch on other for plug welding the patch. I paid about $100 years ago before there was a HF around. I "think" I may have seen it for as little as $19. http://da.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=flanger&Submit=Go Plus it makes this kick arse PPSHT sound!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zwannabe Posted April 27, 2006 Share Posted April 27, 2006 only advice i can give is, get a grinder or a TIG for smaller welds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rb26zed Posted April 30, 2006 Share Posted April 30, 2006 I use 0.8 mm flux wire on a 120 amp SIP welder with good results. I use flux for cost and simplicity reasons. Although gas and thinner wire would be better suited I have no real issues with blow through and the beads can be kept small and neat when welding non-structural sheet as the weld doesnt have to be super strong. Just takes some practice and patience. Get some scrap and practice, practice, practice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Some-Guy Posted April 30, 2006 Share Posted April 30, 2006 looks pretty good.. my advice is the same as everyone elses haha practice practice.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SBC_240z Posted May 2, 2006 Share Posted May 2, 2006 some updated pics of the finished product Shoot some of your opinions out guys. I feel I am getting better. Still using flux because I bought a whole bunch of it when I got the Lincoln Machine. So yeah, any more tips would be great !!! p.s. -- i am using 22 gauge steel here because 18 was tooooo hard to cut into what i needed. What should my back bumper be ?? 18 Gauge ???? this is what i mean. I found good clean steel relatively well priced at an Ornamental store. Here is a pic of the back bumper cover i had to cut out (dent and rust) , now will be redoing it. Tell me what gauge steel would work best. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SBC_240z Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetleaf Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 dude , get yourself a nice set of air nibblers and shears ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SBC_240z Posted May 3, 2006 Share Posted May 3, 2006 dude , get yourself a nice set of air nibblers and shears ... what ? please clarify what they are and what they do..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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