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RB26 versus VQ35 swap ?


turbonat240

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well, if we're talking about building the engine anyways, power potential may as well go right out the window. Talking about built vs. built the difference between the potential VG and VQ is nonexistent.

 

I"m sure the VQ is a superior motor for various reasons (weight being chief among them), but power potential definitely isn't one of them.

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I'd like to see what you mean by fastest nissan in the world. I"m 99% sure that the highest top speed recorded on a Z chassis nissan is still held by the JUN Z32, which is powered by a VG. That record is 419 kmh (something like 255 mph?) set at the bonneville speed trials.

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I'd like to see what you mean by fastest nissan in the world. I"m 99% sure that the highest top speed recorded on a Z chassis nissan is still held by the JUN Z32, which is powered by a VG. That record is 419 kmh (something like 255 mph?) set at the bonneville speed trials.

 

Yup made by JUN in 1991.

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Even though the VQ powers the fastest Nissan in the world?

 

This thread is hilarious.

 

Thats because Nissan and several other companies sponsored that car. There has never been that much support for a drag car using the VG, Escort is as close as it got and they were running 6.8 or 6.9 as there fastest. need I mention they were using the stock crank.

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Just to get the thread back on track,

the VG30DETT is a stout engine but it's very heavy for a V6. The RB26DETT might weight about the same but it's so much easier to work on and there is a lot of choice of upgrade parts. the VG30DETT is not even an option for me since I can't find one with low mileage and it's not very easy to swap in a 240z (I think there would be a turbo in the way of the steering linkage). I personally think that at the speed that the aftermarket is reacting to the VQ there will be much more upgrades options in the next years for that engine. I also think that the aftermarket following will last much longer for the RB series than for the VG.

 

For what I want to do with my car (street car and weekend track car mainly for lapping events) horsepower number is not the most important thing. I'm not looking to make a dyno queen. I think that I would get into traction problems with over 400 whp anyway without slicks or flared fenders. the more I think about it, a wide, flexible powerband is what I'm looking for.

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  • 2 years later...
Guest superbike81

Ok, I know I'm breaking the rules as far as being a noob to a forum goes (don't bump old posts), but I thought it was more appropriate than creating a new thread.

 

I'll be picking up a early 70's Nissan Skyline coupe (Hakosuka), and am looking into the possibility of engine swaps. My first choice was the RB25DE N/A motor, because I want to stay N/A, and I already have a good motor for it that I got from an R34 Skyline GT for $100.

 

But after reading some stuff about the VQ35, I am very interested in it. Can someone give me some info about how it compares in physical size and dimensions to the RB25/26 motors? Also, what about the transmissions? Are they similar size? Or is the VQ35 6-speed smaller than the RB25DET 5-spd?

 

I'd really appreciate any input on this.

 

Thanks!

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I was recently running an RB25DE in my '71 S30 and just switched over to the VQ powerplant along with the 6-speed trans.

 

Compared to the RB, the VQ is much smaller, lighter, and can be placed entirely behind the crossmember. So we're talking about an engine that's 3 cylinders shorter, about 100 LBS lighter, and gives a better weight distribution.

 

I wasn't able to take a picture of both engines side by side, but this might help.

 

IMG_0249.JPG

 

IMG_2295.JPG

 

As far as transmissions go the bell housing on both trannys are similar, however the gearbox secion of the VQ is much wider then the RB trans. Both are alos similar in length. The gearing is much different though. The RB trans has VERY long gears which really hurts acceleration.

 

Yes the VQ swap is probably going to cost much more than the RB but, IMO your better off with the VQ in any situation. Wheather your road racing, drifting, drag racing, daily driving, etc. the VQ is a much better choice.

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  • 5 weeks later...
Just to get the thread back on track,

the VG30DETT is a stout engine but it's very heavy for a V6. The RB26DETT might weight about the same but it's so much easier to work on and there is a lot of choice of upgrade parts. the VG30DETT is not even an option for me since I can't find one with low mileage and it's not very easy to swap in a 240z (I think there would be a turbo in the way of the steering linkage). I personally think that at the speed that the aftermarket is reacting to the VQ there will be much more upgrades options in the next years for that engine. I also think that the aftermarket following will last much longer for the RB series than for the VG.

 

For what I want to do with my car (street car and weekend track car mainly for lapping events) horsepower number is not the most important thing. I'm not looking to make a dyno queen. I think that I would get into traction problems with over 400 whp anyway without slicks or flared fenders. the more I think about it, a wide, flexible powerband is what I'm looking for.

 

 

Well, That's why I chose VQ for my car, and if you look around you CAN find cheap deals on the 350z version of the VQ, I just paid $500+shipping for my 07 350Z VQ35HR (22k). yeah I need more parts and accessories, but those I can piecemeal. I'm looking at 300+HP just stock, on a light 280z. I'll be going with the 6spd which other than some tailshaft noise in early versions, is a pretty stout tranny (which you can get cheap behind a lot of nissan dealerships). I'll be buying one for the 07 engine, to match the bell housing. then it's just stock electrics. The Nissan ECU's are supposively pretty good at managing the engine, though as has been said there's some pricy addon's you can do, but that's not cost effective HP.

 

The VQ35 engine has been in the Ward's 10 best engines since 2002, and since 95' with the VQ30...

 

Phar

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sorry about the double post, but I've been reading a little about the 06 Revup engines... you might want to make sure the one you get has a little higher miles to ensure it doesn't have the oil consumption problem, that is ~ 1qt/1k miles. apparently it only affected a few months of cars between nov 05 and march 06. so watch what engine you get.

 

The nissan TSB has them replacing whole engines, and haven't noted exactly what the problem is. all the other engines should be fine, and especially any with over 5K miles should have either been replaced, or blown up before that point. So most engines you'll find for a swap should be fine. the VQ35 is a great engine.

 

Phar,

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If you want all your listed benefits of the RB, but want heaps more torque than the RB26 or RB25, consider putting together a RB30/26 or RB30/25. Using the 3 liter RB30 block and fitting the DOHC RB26 or RB25 head.

 

This hybrid combo produces stump pulling amounts of torque. Search for all the posts from R.I.P.S and his many videos on youtube, where he has a vid of a very mild rb30/25 powered skyline doing a massive burnout starting from 4th gear - Very impressive torque indeed!!

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  • 3 weeks later...

So how about those of us who would like to keep our air conditioning? I remember reading on Austin Hoke's http://website http://www.vq240z.com that there is an issue with the compressor getting in the way of the steering shaft. Anybody have in good info on this? I know since the RB26 carries the same inline layout that the A/C compressor is not an issue.

 

Just for the record, I'm debating SR20 vs. RB26 vs VQ35 and I still haven't come to a conclusion in over a year of research. My girlfriend hates it too.

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Stock or near stock HP levels, the VQ is king.

 

If you want big HP, GT motorsports or Forgedperformance are a good place to start.

 

At GTmotorsports, you can get a block with darton sleeves in it for $1795 (700 core charge........if you supply them a workable block).

 

This does not include boring or honing so figure in those prices in.

 

Forgedperformance offers a short block for $3490 fitted with arias pistons and eagle rods but the core charge on this is $1500.

 

http://forgedperformance.com/store/product.php?productid=16354&cat=264&page=1

 

If you want insane power, you will also need a girdle which is $1000 but I'm not sure what power level would require a girdle on this engine.

 

I'll assume line the crank bores would need to be line bored after install but I don't know.

 

But hey.......some of the VQ crowd spend 10k to butcher their suspension and another 5k on appearance alone so it's really a drop in the bucket for an engine that can handle pretty high power levels.

 

Of course, you need to figure in cylinder head work (if required) for your desired power level manifolding, turbos, and plenum parts.

 

For my cheap ass?

 

I would fit darton sleeves, leave everything else stock except engine management and injectors, and boost it up a bit.

 

This would give you a bit of safety should you run into detonation at anything over about 500hp as it seems even one big detonation event has been known to break stuff on a non-sleeved engine.

 

Then there's the longeivity..........there isn't much long term study on whether you can sleeve the block and drive it 50,000 miles as a daily driver without having sealing issues and such.

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Thats ridiculous. The weak link of the vq is the RODS. There is no reason to sleeve the block unless you are looking for 1000+ hp levels, forged performance actually recommends that you DON'T sleeve the block for road racing use and only recommends it for drag/street.

 

If you want to make massive power all you really need to do it put in rods and pistons and you should be able to make 800 hp with a nice turbo kit/uel system/engine management. If I remember correctly shariff put down 841 on the s1 block in his car. My buddy has a DD with 600 hp and he runs the forged s1 short block, never had an issue with the motor.

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Well that's certainly good to hear and should ally any fears as to longeivity.

 

I'm not a big fan of iron or steel liners in an aluminum engine and mentioned the potential problems in my "ridiculous" post above.

 

I like to work on them only once and drive them every day for years without anything other than fluids and such.

 

Every suggestion I made was purposely written with an out to avoid the term ridiculous being applied to it.......it's the politician's way.

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Sorry most of your post was informative, this is the specific part Iwas referring to as ridiculous, it is anything but the cheap way to do it...in fact its the most involved and expensive, and way overkill for almost all street applications.

 

For my cheap ass?

 

I would fit darton sleeves, leave everything else stock except engine management and injectors, and boost it up a bit.

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