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LOOKING FOR A lift??


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this should help

ID STRONGLY SUGGEST NOT BUYING A CHINESE BUILT LIFT AND BUYING FROM AN AMERICAN MANUFACTURER

/KEEP IN MIND THAT PARTS AVAILABILITY IN THE FUTURE AN SERVICE IS FAR MORE IMPORTANT THAN SAVING A FEW BUCKS ON THE UP FRONT COST

Auto lifts

 

http://www.autolift.org/

 

http://www.autolift.org/purchase_considerations.pdf

 

 

http://www.geminilift.com/

 

http://www.ben-pearson.com/automotive-lifts.shtml

 

http://www.hunter.com/pub/product/racks/index.htm

 

http://www.challengerlifts.com/products.shtml

 

www.directlift.com

 

www.backyardbuddy.com

 

www.autolifts.com

 

http://www.westernhoist.com/

 

www.stingerlifts.com

 

www.doublepark.net

 

www.mohawklifts.com

 

www.autolifters.com

 

http://www.bendpak.com/

 

http://www.bendpak.com/product_info.isg?products_id=881

 

http://www.rotarylift.com/

 

http://eagleequip.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=LI

 

ok having just gone thru this , Id point out that theres a HUGE differance in the REPLACEMENT PARTS availability and TECH SUPPORT availability and getting the lift installed correctly between the americam made and chinese built lifts, you probably DON,T WANT a 12,000 lb lift unless you excluesively work on larger trucks as the lift arms may not have the necessary clearance to use on low slung cars

a 9000 lb lift will handle almost all personal cars/trucks

 

heres what I finally bought and had installed, keep in mind that the higher the lifts weight rateing the larger the arms need to be and the more difficult it will be to use on low groound clearance cars like corvettes/camaros ETC. and youll rarely find personal cars/trucks over 6000lbs in weight with most being well under 4000-4500lbs

 

heres the lift I purchased, I felt it was the best value, HAD THE BEST SERVICE SUPPORT AND BEST ACCESS UNDER THE CAR, ACCESS TO THE WHEELS, TRANSMISSION,EXHAUST, etc.

 

http://www.ben-pearson.com/9000si.shtml

 

garage11.jpg

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Guest ON3GO

thats the same style lift i used at work and same style i want to buy, but i had a problem at work with lowered cars with it.

is there any companys that you know of that sells ones with thinner but still way strong arms?

 

im looking for a lift for my garage im building and want to do it right the 1st time.

 

mike

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a PROPERLY set up and built 4 post lift is great, but keep in mind that to work on the brakes,suspension etc. youll need a sliding bridge jack, to access the brakes/wheels while the cars up on that lift, now that adds to the cost.

I was originally looking at this lift

 

http://eagleequip.com/page/EE/PROD/LI-EFP/HD-12SS

 

but adding a sliding bridge jack...

 

http://eagleequip.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RJ-45&Category_Code=LI-FP-OP&Product_Count=7

 

pushed the price up significantly, plus I went out and looked at about a dozen shops, most had two post lifts........the reasons given were

more useable floor space when it was not in use,

easier access to the wheels,and exhaust

no long platform in the way under the wheels when working on suspension

lower cost

all four wheels are easily accessable

both doors can be accessed(some 4 post lifts don,t allow the pass door to open)

 

I will eventually get both types of lift in the shop, because the 4 post is better for alignments and welding roll cages,etc. but after WORKING ON BOTH TYPES, and talking extensively with the mechanics at almost a dozen corvette shops, I think your best value is the QUALITY two post

 

"Have you come across any drawbacks to the 2 post lift you bought?"

 

well that depends on your view on lifts, its certainly easier to drive onto a 4 post than swinging the arms and positioning the car on a two post lift, but once its up, a two post is GREAT! IM GLAD I WENT THIS ROUTE

BTW IT HELPS A GREAT DEAL to install a lazer garage parking guide , it allows you to exactly locate the car without getting out and checking

JB3800Image.jpg

http://shop.vendio.com/Brandsonsale/item/793788710/?s=1147255202

 

you simply pull in untill the lazer dot locates on the dash center and your located exactly correct for the lift arms

 

"Did you install it yourself? Were the floor bolts put in with the concrete or after?"

 

NO! the bolts were DRILLED inserted in MY 8" thick 3500psi concrete slab AFTER the garage was built, and altho I could have easilt installed it my self I HAD the distributor install it, theres no sence in having a total garauntee if they might say any problems were caused due to installation errors

 

my garage was built and the floor poured SPECIFICALLY for and KNOWING that I was installing a lift, while most floors are poured 2"-3" thick out of 2000psi concrete I had my garage built with a 8" thick MINIMUM floor useing 3500psi concrete, the techs installing the lift even commented that they had never seen a floor concrete that thick or hard, the base is fairly large (about 12" x 20") and theres (8 ) 7/8" expansion bolts EACH rated at over 10 tons holding EACH base to the floor, I asked the techs installing it and EVERY SHOP I visited if they had ever seen a lift tip, not one person I talked with, mentioned EVER even hearing of a lift that was dealer installed having a problem

 

notice even in crappy 2000psi concrete the rated loads

 

http://www.concretefasteners.com/anchors-fasteners/thunderstud-wedge/technical-specifications.htm

 

 

"How tall is your ceiling? If I have a stock 2003 f-150 supercrew 4x4 on the lift, do you think it would all fit under your ceiling?"

 

 

my ceiling 16" tall floor to rafters,(the pictures somewhat deceptive, theres a good 4-to 5 feet of room over the lift ,even thou it looks like theres less) and IVE had two large vans on my lift now with NO PROBLEM, and keep in mind that theres TWO EXTENDED VERIONS WITH MORE OVERHEAD CLEARANCE AVAILABLE

 

http://www.ben-pearson.com/9000si.shtml

 

Specifications PART # MODEL DESCRIPTION PRICE

90058 9000SI 9,000 lb. straight (w/ stack-pads) $3295.00

90068 9000SI EH-1 9,000 lb. straight 1' EXT (w/ stack-pads) $3495.00

90069 9000SI EH-2 9,000 lb. straight 2' EXT (w/ stack-pads) $3595.00

 

 

they DO HAVE MUCH LESS EXPENSIVE LIFTS

http://www.ben-pearson.com/10000bsa.shtml

 

I JUST BOUGHT THE BEST I COULD AFFORD

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we are going with the drive up 4 post with the sliding bridge jack.

 

I agree that they don't alow much access, but we do to much work on import sports cars, like old mercedes and porche and triumphs and healys. so there is a big wory of rotted out unit body convertables on a 2 post. I have literaly seen a 914 break in half on a lift before

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Guest JAMIE T
we are going with the drive up 4 post with the sliding bridge jack.

 

I agree that they don't alow much access' date=' but we do to much work on import sports cars, like old mercedes and porche and triumphs and healys. so there is a big wory of rotted out unit body convertables on a 2 post. I have literaly seen a 914 break in half on a lift before[/quote']

 

That's a great point. Also exhaust systems SHOULD be built with the car setting on it's suspension, not hanging. Same goes for installing subframe connectors and roll cages.

 

For exhaust, if the suspension is hanging, you may not give it the clearance it needs for when the suspension moves up and down. The subframe connectors and roll cages should be doen this way so that the frame is not twisted while it's beeing welded. If the frame is already twisted, well then that's too bad :)

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