Remember My Dual Master Cylinder Brakes? Rears Actuate First?

[Guest iskone]

I was under there taking a look at the setup yesterday and realized that my rears are actuated first. My rear MC is a 5/8 and front is a 3/4 the pedal pushes on the two at the same time but I can turn adjustable links to change it.

 

Seem odd to you guys? What would be the reason for this? I'm sure there is something to do with racing I don't know about.

 

Isk

[olie05]

some racing style pedal setups use two master cylinders and a "balance bar" in between. You can adjust where the pedal pushes on the balance bar to increase the force bias towards one master cylinder or the other. In your case I would assume that you can turn something to adjust the rod going from the pedal to the bias bar and move the rod closer to the front brake MC to give more bias to the fronts.

 

btw any pics? that might help a little.

 

something like this? :

http://a1racing.com/images/products/inventory/WIL340-4630.jpg

[Guest iskone]

I'll see if I can snap any pics in a bit. There is NO balance bar.

 

 

Isk

[Guest iskone]

http://f3.yahoofs.com/users/41c3eb4az6227a3dc/4984/__sr_/107escd.jpg?phYCoeEBTBn5Q4qy

 

http://f3.yahoofs.com/users/41c3eb4az6227a3dc/4984/__sr_/d005scd.jpg?phYCoeEB14gsqx_y

 

http://f3.yahoofs.com/users/41c3eb4az6227a3dc/4984/__sr_/b36escd.jpg?phYCoeEBIzc9e.EX

 

http://f3.yahoofs.com/users/41c3eb4az6227a3dc/4984/__sr_/b5c6.jpg?phYCoeEBGfzcFnYK

 

As you can see no balance bar. I can see how to adjust it so the fronts hit first but I was wondering why would someone set it up for the backs?

 

Isk

 

[Guest iskone]

Damn Yahoo.

 

isk

[Guest JasonDTM]

Purchase a tilton balance bar, and remote bias adjuster.

 

http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=42&m=b < - Balance Bar

 

http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=list2&id=33&m=b < - Remote bias adjuster.

[74_5.0L_Z]

Reverse the master cylinders. The smaller master cylinder applies more force than the larger one.

[Guest iskone]

I think for now I'll actuate the fronts first.

 

But my question is why would they be setup this way?

 

Isk

[tube80z]

I think for now I'll actuate the fronts first.

 

But my question is why would they be setup this way?

 

Your guess would be as good as mine. I think the issue is that with no balance bar you'd need to have the same travel of both brak rods for this setup to have a chance of working. I seriously doubt that will ever happen.

 

Best bet, as mentioned above, put a balance bar between the masters.

 

Cary

[Guest iskone]

Well, I know about balance bars to some extent but I don't see why have the front engage before the rears manually is bad. My brakes work well on the street and this car was setup as a track car, although I have yet to go to the track.

 

I don't kow if those links are working correctly so I can move them when I have the chance.

 

Isk

[rubin]

i thought they were supposed to engage at the same time, just the rears with less force

[Guest iskone]

Well I was thinking my setup is like a manual proportioning valve without the valve. Maybe I'll adjust it so they come on at the same time.

 

Isk

[Guest iskone]

Here are the pics.

 

 

 

 

 

[JMortensen]

Looks like a custom balance bar to me. What exactly do you mean by the rears actuate first? It might be that the appearance of the balance bar is throwing you off. When adjusted one way or the other it might look like it isn't straight. This page has a pretty detailed explanation: http://www.essexparts.com/CatalogPDF/Essex_53~BrPedalBalBar.pdf

[Guest iskone]

That sleeve is suppose to be the balance bar? Man I'm a moron if that is the case. To me it just looks like a sleeve that was used to add more girth to the rod so that it fits in the lever.

 

The rod for the rear brakes moves first this is why I said the acuate first. The bar does get cocked when the pedal is pressed.

 

I'll read that link later tonight, thanks.

 

Isk

[JMortensen]

My understanding of these things isn't perfect, but I think the idea is that the center sleeve has a rod end in it, and you can move the rod end inside the sleeve towards one side or the other. The side you move the rod end towards gets more pressure.

[Guest iskone]

I'll have to look closer but I did not see a rod end.

 

Isk

[JMortensen]

Sorry, monoball not rod end.

[1 tuff z]

iskone, jon is correct. by moving the 'monoball' [visible in your first pic] from one side to the other u get more master cylinder piston movement by changing the balance bar pivot point or i guess fulcrum. be careful that the balance bar doesn't 'bottom out' against the sleeve and cause it to bend or worse, break. you'll also be able to get some fine tuning [front / rear balance] by adjusting the pushrods that go into the brake masters, like you would for adjusting the clutch pedal engagement. tilton sells a cable that will attach to the end of your balance bar giving you the ability to adjust f/r bias while driving. the open wheel formula continentals i used to work on had this same type of setup. i'd suggest you [if not done already] line the tube where the monoball lives with grease so it moves nicely.

[Guest iskone]

I was looking at it last night and it does have the monball in it. I thought it was just a sleeve.

 

I hate it when you guys know more about the stuff on my car then I do

 

Isk