Guest Anonymous Posted January 10, 2001 Share Posted January 10, 2001 I ordered some doo-dads from MSA yesterday..... the guy mentioned they have a sale on their sway bars - $195 a pair with poly bushings. Made by 'sway away'. Anyone know anything about sway away? ------------------ Morgan http://z31.com/~morgan/s30 http://carfiche.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted January 10, 2001 Share Posted January 10, 2001 They make trailer hitches. ------------------ John Coffey johnc@betamotorsports.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted January 11, 2001 Share Posted January 11, 2001 Is that good or bad? That depends on if you pulling something or not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted January 11, 2001 Share Posted January 11, 2001 I'd like to think that there isn't much difference in sway bars, but I'm sure they all amke them to different tensil strength and pliability. Morgan, what sizes did they have? I paid $170 for my front 1 1/8 unit with all poly mounts and endlinks from another source. Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 11, 2001 Share Posted January 11, 2001 1 inch front and 7/8 rear. ------------------ Morgan http://z31.com/~morgan/s30 http://carfiche.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 11, 2001 Share Posted January 11, 2001 Is that good or bad? ------------------ Morgan http://z31.com/~morgan/s30 http://carfiche.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted January 11, 2001 Share Posted January 11, 2001 Actually that is not a bad size or a bad price! If you plan to upgrade anyway, I'd jump on it! Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 11, 2001 Share Posted January 11, 2001 Well, nobody seems to know how stiff they are. If they're made of cheap steel they won't be much better than the gimpy sway bars on my car now. That is why I was asking about them.... ------------------ Morgan http://z31.com/~morgan/s30 http://carfiche.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oltmann Posted January 11, 2001 Share Posted January 11, 2001 They have a web site http://www.swayaway.com/ but it doesn't have much info. They don't even mention making bars for Zs, hmm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted January 12, 2001 Share Posted January 12, 2001 Has anyone ever "adjusted" a sway bar? I need to take the ends on my rear sway bar in by 20mm a side. . . .Ive been told that you can heat them red, bend them and then let them cool slowly. The person who told me this said that this is all that the spring people do? Anyone know about this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted January 12, 2001 Share Posted January 12, 2001 I'm thinking about doing just that Simon. I have a set of sway bars off a 280zx turbo, which are considerably thicker than the 240z ones. The problem is, they are a slightly different shape. I plan on either a) heating and bending, being very careful with my temperatures. Or Figuring out some way of sectioning the bar and reattaching it. makes me shiver a little, but I figure if you were to remove a couple inches out of the dead center, weld it together, then put a ~4-6" piece of pipe over that section it would not fail catastophically. Of course I'd be pretty paranoid about it and check it often. All things considered, I like a) better. I guess another option would be to chop off the ends and use an adjustable clamp connection to the sway bar itself allowing me to effectively shorten it the small amount I need to. ------------------ Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! Drax's 72 240Z Turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted January 12, 2001 Share Posted January 12, 2001 I think most "regular" anti-roll bars are made from the same kind of spring steel. The only real difference would be bar thickness and end link type (stamped or welded on). Again, this is only a guess on my part. The real differences in anti-roll bars comes when you start comparing regular with tubular and blade. There you see huge differences in quality and tuneability (and price). ------------------ John Coffey johnc@betamotorsports.com [This message has been edited by johnc (edited January 11, 2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted January 21, 2001 Share Posted January 21, 2001 Be careful about what you consider "catastrophic failure" in a sway bar. Sure, it might not come apart and hit something like say a gas tank but think about when it might fail... Say how about in the middle of a nice offramp with the car pulling some hard Gs - I'd imagine the sudden loss of the sway bar might be enough to stick the car into the guardrail at the very least. I think I'd stick to heating it up or buying one that's made to fit. Do be aware that the stock mounts up front can be a bit weak, my parts car had the mounts ripped out and repaired at least once. The sway bar I've got from that car is a MONSTER! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Purple240zt Posted January 21, 2001 Share Posted January 21, 2001 I have MSA swaybars. If they are the same ones, the ends are stamped and the quality is actually really good. they perform really well on my car and i would reccomend them. Esp for the price!! Evan PS be ready, puttin new bars on is a raging PITA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted January 22, 2001 Share Posted January 22, 2001 Simon, If you have a rear mount rear anti-roll bar you are better off putting spacer blocks on the mounts themselves instead of messing with the bar ends. Most rear mounted anti-roll bars on the Z have to be spaced back about 1" to keep the bar from binding under full rear bump. ------------------ John Coffey johnc@betamotorsports.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted January 23, 2001 Share Posted January 23, 2001 I've had a lot of experience in modifing sway bars. Currently I use an RX7 front bar on the rear of my Z and a Suburban front bar on the front of my Z. On all the bars I've modified (about 5), I only had to change the angle of the arms no more than about 15 degrees, and re-do the ends (shortend the arms). I did the bending with a good press and a custom set of arbors to hold the bar in position. The spring steel that the bars are made out of will bend, but only a small amount before the bar breaks (and I'm tell'in ya now, you don't want to be around when it does). Do not heat the bar to bend it because this will take the temper out of the bar, making it useless. If you do heat it, you will need to get it tempered again, which is as expensive as buying a new bar. In my case, no one made a bar like I needed. To re-do the ends, I lopped off the ends, and then ground the new ends flat. Then I drilled new holes in the flatten ends (it took several bits to accomplish this on this spring steel). On smaller bars a slight amount of material was added to the edges of the flats to make them wider. The heat did not travel up the arm (cooled with damp cloth and short welding times) thus keeping the arms tempered. I've had great success with this method of modifing existing bars, but extreme care MUST be taken in bending the bars. To build and temper one bar would have been over $300 to build, thus was my incentive to modify an existing bar. Terry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted January 23, 2001 Share Posted January 23, 2001 Hey Terry, thanks a lot for that info! Thats great stuff. I can't wait to work these ones out for my car. ------------------ Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! Drax's 72 240Z Turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted January 24, 2001 Share Posted January 24, 2001 I just got MSA sways for my 240 for Christmas from my wife. (Finally!!) Kit is complete with fasteners, links, and spacers etc. Front installation took 10 minutes to R&R! Rears will take considerably longer if you have a 240 w/o stock rear sway. Still should be no big deal. Quality overall seems excellent made of automotive grade spring steel, forged ends, urethane, nice hardware. Just the front made a huge difference! JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted January 25, 2001 Share Posted January 25, 2001 i got a 1 1/16 suspension techniques front bar laying around cause it was too stiff with front springs i am using .went to 7/8 bar and understeer problem at turn 6 at sears point went away.my point-if car feels like it is good on street you still dont know what will happen under track conditions.you know you are really into r&D when you have stuff you bought & ran one day at track and took it off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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