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Overheating problems/symptoms


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ROFL That was the best thread hijack ever.

 

True, she isn't a musician, but "performers" weather signers (good or bad) or musicians we don't get paid much.

 

My real money is made in computers. I repair, maintain, make, ect. I make good money... when I can find work.

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Learn to program computers and you'll make even more money and generally not have a hard time finding work. I'm not talking web development either, real porgramming.

 

I'm a software engineer and have had less then 3 months of jobless time during the last 20 years, most of it of my own choosing.

 

Wheelman

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Umm, i know C++, VB, VB2, Pearl, PHP, XML, and of course HTML. I've even done my fair share of 3d programming.

 

Work is hard to find here. Ever since the big cool down several years ago programmers are dime a dozen still in CA. I once even met an out-of-work programmer who was working at fry's. woohoo.

 

It is good money though, i'm just not willing to relocate at the moment. Maybe in 5 years once i'm done with my buisness ventures.

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Did you also remove the pan that covers the bottom of the rad. to the front of the engine? If so the air is going to travel up behind the rad. and try to stop the air going through the front at highway speed. They put that pan there for a reason!!!

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New 14 inch S blade fan arrived today and now it's in the car.

 

The bad news (wich seems to always exist with me)

 

My starter has started grinding and has me worried, so I'm not even attempting to start it. I plan on buying one tomarrow or friday and installing it same day. Once that's installed we'll find out if the fan is the issue.

 

It's all nail biting I know.

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Haha, irony. Two people in the east bay with the same problem :D

 

When I started having problems the weather wasn't bad at all, but with this insane heat wave I wouldn't want to chance it at all.

 

I'm putting the new starter on tomarrow (picked one up at pnp that looks like it's in great shape). So I'll know pretty soon if the fan was my issue. If there's still some overheating I might full drain the system, then refill, then try to get all the air out of the system and see if maybe if that fixes anything.

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yeah I dont even like driving until around 10 when its still 90. My problem was that I had a leak near my water pump which I was able to fix. Its still running a little hot but I think I just need to get the air out of the lines now. Well good luck I hope you fix your problem with the fan.

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Well everyone. The worst of the worst possible happened.

 

I was working on the starter today and pulled the dipstick out since it was in my way and I kept bumping it.... water in the oil... dammit. I'd checked it not even a week ago and I havn't driven it in the last 3 days. It hasn't gotten really hot lately, and the last time it overheated really high the oil was fine.

 

This all ticked me off more than I can express. I've had nothing but issues with this motor. More than I've posted on this board becuase alot of it I never needed help with. I can't seem to find anything that I could have done to cause this thing to overheat, other than the fan. But there seemed plenty of reasons why it wasn't the fan.

 

This is kinda the last straw for me. I can take it apart and have the head checked, block checked. Then to have that fixed I might as well just get a L28et w/tranny from picknpull for $400 or so. (wich would be more worth my time). BUT, do I really want to do that? No. I don't really want to do that motor swap, and I don't want to invest any money into another motor i'm going to replace in the future anyways. Plus if it's a junkyard motor it might have junkyard problems. I dont' want to end up spending $800 on a swap that will only put 170 to the wheels. (and that might be a little optimistic)

 

There's a good deal on a mark 3 supra turbo for sale. Looks like it's had a fair amount of work done to it. And juding by the area the seller is it's probly a kid who's put some money into it that wants something faster (richer area).

 

So I might buy that, sell the ZX (maybe guage interest in parting it out first) and then keep my eyes peeled for a clean early 240Z or 71-75 celica GT.

 

It's been a dark day for me. Maybe the car would have been ok if the fan had been on sooner. Only God knows now.

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Do you have anything hooked up to the overflow port on your radiator? The one just below the cap that sends excess coolant to the overflow bottle? If that is just venting off into space, you're losing a TON of coolant that would otherwise go into your overflow bottle once your cap heats up (bitter voice of experience here). If it is disconnected, either capping it or hooking it back up to the bottle will solve that problem really quickly.

 

*edit* Woops, didn't realize the engine crapped out while I was posting, sorry for the Suzy Come Lately...Gollum, why not just go pull a cylinder head from the boneyard for $50, get a new fel-pro head gasket and hit both sides with the copper spray-a-gasket, and slap it back on? I had EXACTLY the same problem with an under-powered electric fan, and after throwing on a p-79 head (with just new seals and gaskets, no machine work at all-that also came from an overheated car-and get this:no leaks either!)and a mechanical fan, now all my reliability problems are gone...It's been my experience that these engines are far more heat tolerant than you might think.

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*edit* Woops, didn't realize the engine crapped out while I was posting, sorry for the Suzy Come Lately...Gollum, why not just go pull a cylinder head from the boneyard for $50, get a new fel-pro head gasket and hit both sides with the copper spray-a-gasket, and slap it back on? I had EXACTLY the same problem with an under-powered electric fan, and after throwing on a p-79 head (with just new seals and gaskets, no machine work at all-that also came from an overheated car-and get this:no leaks either!)and a mechanical fan, now all my reliability problems are gone...It's been my experience that these engines are far more heat tolerant than you might think.

 

Ive already offered him an N47 Head but he doesnt want to go through with it

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I had an overflow tank hooked up. There's a possability maybe the cap in it was leaking. I can't be sre

 

a head at my yard will be closer to $100, and i'm worried the block deck would still be warped. Maybe I can find someone with a straight edge near me (i might even know someone with one, i just have to go through the process of talking to all the people I know)

 

If I do pull a head, it'll be a P79 for sure, and off a car is major body damage that lookls as though it was in an accident. That will be the only way to have a good chance at hoping the motor was in good shape.

 

So, head replacement process:

 

TDC the motor

Drain Oil & Coolant

Remove spark wires and plugs

Remove air box

Unbold exhaust manifold

Pull off the intake & exhaust manifold and unplug any wires holding it on

Pull the tensioner pull

Pull the power steering

Take of valve cover

Unbolt Head

Check cam timing on new head (should I get a new timing chain for safety?)

Clean surfaces with razor and the fine sand to pull any other crap off

Spray gasket

Install head

Recheck cam timing

Install timing chain

put back together

 

Did I miss anything? Maybe I should polish the ports while I'm at it :D

 

I never really reved my old motor past 6k. I wonder if I should do anything to increase high RPM performance.

 

Personally, if I can change the head under $150 I'll consider it.

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When I did it, I pulled the radiator and the harmonic balancer so I could get the timing cover off. You WILL drop your timing chain tensioner, so you might as well do this up front. I used a wire cup on a drill to clean the old gasket off (just be sure you aren't too aggressive), and the copper gasket spray goes a long way towards compensating for warpage, assuming it isn't too severe (keep in mind, my gasket was so bad that my engine actually hydrolocked, and it's running with no leaks now). All told, you are looking at about $70 in gaskets if you get a head set and a timing set. I didn't change my chain, if you want to, you can. If your goal is just to get it on the road, don't do anything else "while you're at it." And how hard is it to buy a metal ruler? Why would you need to borrow a straight edge from somebody?

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There's really no need for all that once the radiator is removed-you'll have plenty of space to work on it. Oh wait, is this a ZX? I've got an S30 so I don't have to worry about the bumper situation...it might just be easier to pull the whole thing.

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