OlderThanMe Posted July 10, 2006 Share Posted July 10, 2006 I am pulling my L6 motor this weekend since something is wrong in my motor and some oiler was sitting in my oil pan. I guess the first thing I will do is take lots of pictures of how everything is hooked up. I will then drain the radiator fluid. Disconnect all electrical connections. What I don't know is if I should leave the transmission attached to the engine and drain it's fluid as well or seperate the engine from the tranny and pull the engine straight foreward and then up. This will be my first engine pull but it seems pretty simple. I don't need to remove the transmision but I will if I have to. Thanks for your help. OTM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 When I pulled my L6 I did it with the transmission attached, and I think it went pretty smoothly that way. I just followed the instructions in my repair manual, and it didn't take more than a few hours. You don't have to drain your transmission, but if you don't you will need some type of a plug for the rear end (something similar to the end of the driveshaft) otherwise it will go everywhere. Have fun and good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted July 11, 2006 Author Share Posted July 11, 2006 Thanks! that is what I was thinking...I have pulled the transmission twice and that is what I was thinking, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillZ260 Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 Tag everything w/ masking tape before you unhook Leave the Trans attached (try to leave the yolk in too!) pull the radiator Don't drop it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted July 11, 2006 Author Share Posted July 11, 2006 Thanks! I think I may pull the radiator first so that I don't crush it with the motor/trans combo. I may just pop out a U-joint and tape the yoke in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihavearustedz Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 yah definatly pull with tranny so you can later change fluid, clutch if you need too. when unbolting the motormounts unbolt them from the stands, that way you dont have to unbolt 4 bolts on the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted July 11, 2006 Author Share Posted July 11, 2006 that's whats cool...I have an 11 pound flywheel and clutch with ~750 miles on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
strotter Posted July 11, 2006 Share Posted July 11, 2006 I assume you're doing this alone? The most useful thing to keep around, of course, is an assistant who is familiar with the procedure, or is at least actively involved. I have drafted my sweetheart to help me with such things on several occasions, and it's good to have someone around "just in case", but have learned not to ask her to touch anything, especially anything greasy (OK, you can chuckle now). Keep padding of some kind around. I have a "rag blanket", an old cheap quilt that I use for such occasions. Fold it in half and lay it on the fender for protection from wires swinging around, roll it into a cylinder for when the rear of the tranny starts to move around, that sort of thing. Also, have a 2x4, or something of similar dimension around to put between engine and bodywork, or tranny and fender, or what-have-you. It's useful as a guide and a little bit of leverage, especially when the tail of the tranny is exiting the tunnel. I also rope the motor, usually from its' rear someplace, one length starboard and one length port, so that I can control it from the pump on the cherry picker, as well as tie it off to prevent it from swinging aroiund if I need to step away for some reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 I put the rear of the car on jackstands and chock the front wheels. This makes it so you don't have to drop the back of the tranny quite as far down to clear the tunnel. Remove the shifter handle if you can. Definitely pull the radiator otherwise you WILL hit it with the engine, better to be safe than sorry. If you're renting a cherry picker be sure to get an engine leveler with it, this will give you the ability to tilt the engine/tranny to whatever angle you need and have it stay. A really big swivel also helps with rotating the engine but if you use one make sure it can handle the load. Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veritech-z Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 Don't know if I already missed the bus on this one, but you should pull the cooling fan off too, it's not that hard to do, and gives you a few more inches of leeway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted July 12, 2006 Author Share Posted July 12, 2006 I have an electric fan...one of those cool things that was already on the car when I got it. the shifter handle takes a full 20 seconds to remove and I am a pro at it since I have had the tranny out twice. I like the idea of lifting the rear. Very good idea and I will use it. I have some nice SUV jackstands that will do fine for that. I was putting 2x4s under my wimpy little car stands but it did not seem safe for pulling the tranny out of the back of the car. Thanks for the help and maybe this thread could be stickied for all the newbies like me that have never pulled a motor. Lots of good info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 If you still have the engine lift hooks on the car, DO NOT USE THEM! mine sheared off as I was pulling one of the previous engines out of my car, and luckily it didn't do much, but if they had sheared while the tranny/engine was in the air, it could have killed some one. Use grade 8.8 bolts wherever you can, to attach the chain. be very careful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted July 12, 2006 Author Share Posted July 12, 2006 ok. Maybe I'll put new bolts on it before I use them...I am guessing the bolts sheared and not something else? thanks for the tip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.INSANE Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 First Off ive done this i am only 16 its not quite that complicated I would recommend taking a picture of the wiring aswell as tagging them just in case. Also i used the engine hooks on my motor they never sheared off or anything but i guess from a 30 yr old motor its to be expected. And for the love of god take of the transmission and engine with it aswell it is a biatch to get it aligned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted July 12, 2006 Author Share Posted July 12, 2006 Well there are only like 5 wires going to my engine. All of them are brand new as I am rewiring the car without a kit from scratch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.INSANE Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 Well there are only like 5 wires going to my engine. All of them are brand new as I am rewiring the car without a kit from scratch. Oh yeah you have carbs dont you a few more wires on the FI setup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted July 12, 2006 Author Share Posted July 12, 2006 yeah...efi has a few more wires...lol the only wires that control my engine are coil wire, distributor sensor wires, and the main power/ground wires. I have the oil sender wire, water temp wires, and I think that is it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.INSANE Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 yeah...efi has a few more wires...lol the only wires that control my engine are coil wire, distributor sensor wires, and the main power/ground wires. I have the oil sender wire, water temp wires, and I think that is it. Yeah its pretty simple for you then i think the only other real annoying part is getting the exhaust bolts off Since your taking the transmission off aswell you need to remove the clutch line from the right side of the transmission along with starter wires and stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlderThanMe Posted July 13, 2006 Author Share Posted July 13, 2006 well I got the rear bolton the header loose so I think the rest will be smooth sailing. The rear bolt is known to snap off as I have heard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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