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LS1 Performance mods


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Ok, I picked up a complete LS1/T56 combo with all the accessories (a 99 Camaro SS drivetrain) on EBAY for well under $4000. I couldn't help it once the bidding started and stayed reasonable. Looks like it will become the replacement drivetrain for my 93 RX7. I was shying away from a non-rotary for the Mazda, but it just fell into place. My current setup has over 90K miles and may blow up any day (of course, I'm not encouraging it in any way, wink wink).

 

My question for you LS1 guys is, what mods have you done and why? I want this to be more reliable than my Datsun (which will continue to be my no holds barred fast car) but I still want it to be insanely fast. I know they respond well to high flow heads, a cam, and long tube headers, but what level of horsepower will that get me? Also, I can't get the word "supercharger" out of my head. What can I say, I love forced induction and V8's, but I'm afraid that I'd have to tear into the engine to get stronger components. Basically, what I'm after is your opinions on horsepower/torque vs. cost vs. practicality/reliability as a daily driver (although it would be a weekend car).

 

Seems like everytime I search for info, I'm let to a site that wants to sell me something and I don't necessarily trust them.

 

Thanks.

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The rod bolts are a week spot and keep you from spinning it past 6500 and once you start mods it can get expensive. You can get a good reliable 400 RWHP with the stock heads but you have to upgrade the springs, retainers, pushrods, and intake (youve got the old LS1 intake).

 

Alot of guys on LS1Tech have gone the TR224 cam route with 918 springs and titanium retainers, long tubes, LS6 intake, ported throttle body, pulley, dyno tune, and hit the 400 mark.

 

I think supercharger too and have an LS6 block out for maching right now. Soon to be all forged internals and a stroker crank for 383. If funds allow I'll go the roots path as it fits neatly in place of the intake and will really pump up the volume.

 

For heads it looks to me like the 215cc trick flow heads are the ticket. I think they run like around 2300 from TEA.

 

Lift-------------------- Intake-----------------Exhaust

0.1000------------------ 67----------------------52

0.2000----------------- 140 --------------------120

0.3000----------------- 220---------------------188

0.4000------------------273---------------------233

0.5000------------------310---------------------253

0.5500------------------323---------------------259

0.6000----------------- 327---------------------264

 

 

 

I have not dynoed my combo but here's where I went and I have been very pleased with the result.

 

Stock bottom

Power steering delete

TR230 cam 230/224 @ .050 .590/.575 lift

Stage 2 5.3 heads with 977 dual springs

Fast 90 intake and Nick Wiliams Throttle body

JTR block hugger headers

Thunder racing ported oil pump

EFI live tunning software

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Yup, I agree with Dale. A cam would be the best and cheapest way to pick up significant horsepower. Add a set of higher flowing heads and a less restrictive exhaust and you can pick up 100hp easy. I have a 99SS and I added an LS6 cam and top end, and a chambered exhaust, and that was good for 60+ rwhp. A more agressive cam and some real performance heads would net even more. I've always heard the the bottom end on an LS1 wasn't made to take high boost (8lbs or more), but if you run less than that you may as well save the money and do heads & cam. Just my $.02....

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dont spin that motor to 7000, you will spin bearings. 97-99 LS1s have poor oil return and spin bearings. put a nice like 224 cam in it with headers and you will put down over 350 rwhp through an M6.

 

something you should do is change your clutch at the same time while the motor/trans is out.

 

as far as supercharger goes. put a procharger 1DSC on there and run like 8 lbs. your internals will be fine and itll be really fast.

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Here's a N/A LS I've been following from a CO board. This traction limited TA is running the same time as my nearly 1000 lb lighter 383 Z! I'd love to have it in my engine bay.

 

Texas Speed LQ9 402 stroker

Mahle Coated Forged Pistons 4.005" Bore

Mahle 1.5mm,1.5mm,3mm Rings

Eagle 4340 Forged Stroker Crankshaft

New GM Engine Block

Clevite H Series Rod & Main Bearings

GM Camshaft Bearings

Complete Engine Balance & Assembly With Detailed Clearance Specs

Lunati Pro Mod rods

 

Texas Speed 'Giant' cam----248/254 629/622 113 LSA

Patriot LS6 Stage III heads (314cfm/228cfm at .600)

Kooks 1 7/8" stainless headers

Custom 3" true duals

LS6 ported oil pump

COMP adjustable timing chain

AutoMeter gauge pod with water temp, fuel pressure, and A/F gauges

SPEC stage 5 clutch

Aeromotive A1000 Fuel Pump (installing over winter)

Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator (also over winter)

Delphi 42# injectors

LS1Speed silver fuel rails

Lunati lifters

FAST LSx 90mm intake/90mm throttle body

SLP lid

Lou's Short Stick

SLP 85mm MAF

SLP smooth bellow

SLP switch controlled linelock

SLP strut tower brace

UMI Adjustable torque arm

March underdrive pulley

11:1 compression

 

1999 Pontiac Trans Am WS.6 #1747

526.1 RWHP

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Boobboy, Check my posts and history with dyno'ing the Vette with various mods... It's pretty much a good baseline for what worked and what didn't with that particular configuration... In the end, it left my shop making 386WHP and 382#ft torque to the wheels and running 11.7s in the 1/4, while nocking down 27MPG on the hiway...

 

My grief wasn't with the motor... But moreso with the configuration of the Vette drivetrain and doing repairs on the car in general... That motor rocks! :2thumbs:

Mike

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