Nigel Posted October 11, 2008 Share Posted October 11, 2008 Guys Can you please tell me where I can buy ZG Flares for my 260 Cheers Garry Uh, look up two posts from yours... Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Man Posted October 30, 2008 Share Posted October 30, 2008 Hello All, New to the forum, but I am looking for the ZG Flare mounting kits that seem to be available here. Any help would be appreciated, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmanout84 Posted January 13, 2009 Share Posted January 13, 2009 I nearly crapped my pants mounting my spoiler today. I'm still trying to visualize the heart attack I'm going to have when I get around to mounting these flares... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gumbyz13 Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 can u install zg flares on a 280zx or are they only for 240's 260's and 280z's????? I realize the original question was some time ago but I just saw this picture in one of my magazines of a S130Z with flares...Looks damn nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 OK, I have a detailed fab question for installing the rears. I understand the concept of the inner and outer quarter panels, the necessity of welding them back together, etc. My only question is, assuming you cut the rears up high enough to make the inside flat (horizontally) as beta mentioned, how do you get the fender well sealed up again? I know you'd have to cut the inner longer to leave material to reach the outer. You'd also have to cut slits in the inner to remove the downward arc and make it stretch out horizontally to the outer sheet metal. However, you'll end up with vee shaped holes from the slits, would you not? Do you cut strips to weld in on this? Does it end up being narrow enough of slits that you can bridge it with the welder? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Do you cut strips to weld in on this? Yes. Does it end up being narrow enough of slits that you can bridge it with the welder? No. Never, ever bridge a gap greater then the filler wire. You can also stretch the metal in the inner fender with a hammer and a dolly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Yes. No. Never, ever bridge a gap greater then the filler wire. You can also stretch the metal in the inner fender with a hammer and a dolly. Ah, thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 By the way, what kind of tools do you use to hold such patch panels in place when you start to weld them? I'm assuming these are butt welded and not lap welded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 By the way, what kind of tools do you use to hold such patch panels in place when you start to weld them? I'm assuming these are butt welded and not lap welded. ^^^ Still curious about this. I have all the bits in my shop now to install them. I have MIG/TIG/Stick experience, etc. Just not sure how to patch the little triangles in; nor whatever you do to patch the leading and trailing sections of the cutouts back together. Help would be awesome. If someone tells me in detail how to do it, I'll get good pics when I perform the mod so they can be added to the sticky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HLS30-08077 Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 If you're still curious after 16 pages, you skipped the good parts. Do what ever you're comfy with, butt-weld, overlap, mig, tig, or stick. I butt welded mine, you cut the outer skin first, then cut the inner (wheel well) metal after. Cut the second metal enough to pound it up and outwards to reattach the 2 metals. Z-CARS ARE UNIBODY..... YOU MUST REWELD IT SOLIDLY TO RETAIN THE INTEGRITY OF STRUCTURE!!!! Adding sheet metal may weaken the structure. I slipped a "Slap paddle" in between the 2 metals and pounded the inner metal flatter to allow it to attach better. When I squeezed the 2 together, I also pounded right into them, rounding the edges for a smoother feel and look. . And on the plus side, if the tire hits it, it's rounded and won't cut into the tire. So by my measurements, I removed about 2.75" off the top half and regressively less as I went down the sides. Painting the exposed metal BLACK will reduce what people see after the job is done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoov100 Posted June 21, 2009 Share Posted June 21, 2009 would it be safe to use pop rivets with back up washers to mount these? as i have fiberglass rear quarters and dont want to risk having them crack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HLS30-08077 Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 Pop rivets are fine. As a matter of fact, pop rivets are what was originally suggested back in the 70's, when the flares were required for racing in certain types or races. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 If you're still curious after 16 pages, you skipped the good parts. Do what ever you're comfy with, butt-weld, overlap, mig, tig, or stick. I butt welded mine, you cut the outer skin first, then cut the inner (wheel well) metal after. Cut the second metal enough to pound it up and outwards to reattach the 2 metals. Z-CARS ARE UNIBODY..... YOU MUST REWELD IT SOLIDLY TO RETAIN THE INTEGRITY OF STRUCTURE!!!! Adding sheet metal may weaken the structure. I slipped a "Slap paddle" in between the 2 metals and pounded the inner metal flatter to allow it to attach better. When I squeezed the 2 together, I also pounded right into them, rounding the edges for a smoother feel and look. . And on the plus side, if the tire hits it, it's rounded and won't cut into the tire. So by my measurements, I removed about 2.75" off the top half and regressively less as I went down the sides. Painting the exposed metal BLACK will reduce what people see after the job is done. OK, thanks for the recommendation. I was thinking you couldn't get them pounded together, but rather you had to slit the inner panel in a few spots to spread it up far enough, and then you'd have to install some extra metal to close it all off. How about the two ends of each cut where it tapers back to the original L-bend at the factory join? You know, the area right close to under each end of the flares? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HLS30-08077 Posted June 22, 2009 Share Posted June 22, 2009 from the bottoms of each side of the flare, I started my cuts about 4 or 5 inches up. And you can almost see exactly what I'm talking about in the 4th picture (second row, on the right) As for how I mounted them.... I started with placing the flare where it looked best, on the dogleg lip, clamped it, and then brought the other side to the fender lip and then it's all visual from there. I started from the inside and cut up and out at an angle for a smoother look and feel. (Pictured below) 1) How big of tires are you / will you run? 2) How low will the car sit after all is said and done? 3) how much clearance do you want under normal driving conditions? I cut about 2.75" off the highest point, but the flare only sits about 1/2" higher than the original fender lip. I don't suspect that I will ever bottom out or rub, but I'll also have big tires and wheels to fill that area just fine. The inner panel was a little less specific when it came to cutting it. I basically imagined how much the inner metal would come out as I pounded upwards. I think I only cut about 1.5 inches or less from the highest point of the lip, and less as I moved down each side. Repeated pounding will slowly stretch and spread the metal. I used a solid steel slap spoon inside the 2 panels to help flatten the inner steel. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 from the bottoms of each side of the flare, I started my cuts about 4 or 5 inches up. And you can almost see exactly what I'm talking about in the 4th picture (second row, on the right) As for how I mounted them.... I started with placing the flare where it looked best, on the dogleg lip, clamped it, and then brought the other side to the fender lip and then it's all visual from there. I started from the inside and cut up and out at an angle for a smoother look and feel. (Pictured below) 1) How big of tires are you / will you run? 2) How low will the car sit after all is said and done? 3) how much clearance do you want under normal driving conditions? I cut about 2.75" off the highest point, but the flare only sits about 1/2" higher than the original fender lip. I don't suspect that I will ever bottom out or rub, but I'll also have big tires and wheels to fill that area just fine. The inner panel was a little less specific when it came to cutting it. I basically imagined how much the inner metal would come out as I pounded upwards. I think I only cut about 1.5 inches or less from the highest point of the lip, and less as I moved down each side. Repeated pounding will slowly stretch and spread the metal. I used a solid steel slap spoon inside the 2 panels to help flatten the inner steel. Dave Ah, thank you, that helps! I have the 17x9/17x19.5 group buy wheels. I went with the standard tire most were using (I can dig it up). I intend to use sectioned struts with coilovers for a reasonable stance. The basic Tokico kit I have now leaves it too high and underdamped. With two people in the car, it rubs the tires on every slight bump. I don't want to have to go back and take off more when I get a sectioned street/weekend type of suspension on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 OK, thanks for the recommendation. I was thinking you couldn't get them pounded together, but rather you had to slit the inner panel in a few spots to spread it up far enough, and then you'd have to install some extra metal to close it all off. How about the two ends of each cut where it tapers back to the original L-bend at the factory join? You know, the area right close to under each end of the flares? Not to be an a$$, but this was all explained on page 1 in the very first post... (Ok, except the bit about the ends, but it's pretty much the same principle) Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akumazeto Posted June 27, 2009 Share Posted June 27, 2009 Just wondering.. Do you really need to cut? I talked to classicdatsun and they said it depends on the tire size. If this is true can anyone give me any input? I also notice in pictures that in Japan the fenders are not cut at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HLS30-08077 Posted June 27, 2009 Share Posted June 27, 2009 Nope, cutting is NOT needed or neccesary, but that's kinda the whole idea behind attaching an extension onto your vehicle, to allow wider tires and increase the travel height of said tires..... We here at HybridZ, typically alter and modify our Z's and other cars for Function, not just looks. Not cutting means you're also likely to add a hood scoop that doesn't allow air in or out of the engine bay and is only there for looks. It's my belief that they fenders were not cut in the 70's because the flares were required as a safety factor, eliminating road debris from hitting following cars, because the Z's were typically in the lead most of time anyways.... By the way, these statements are neither fact nor fiction and ONLY my opinion. Therefore, take it as you see fit. FWIW Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akumazeto Posted June 27, 2009 Share Posted June 27, 2009 Nope, cutting is NOT needed or neccesary, but that's kinda the whole idea behind attaching an extension onto your vehicle, to allow wider tires and increase the travel height of said tires..... We here at HybridZ, typically alter and modify our Z's and other cars for Function, not just looks. Not cutting means you're also likely to add a hood scoop that doesn't allow air in or out of the engine bay and is only there for looks. It's my belief that they fenders were not cut in the 70's because the flares were required as a safety factor, eliminating road debris from hitting following cars, because the Z's were typically in the lead most of time anyways.... By the way, these statements are neither fact nor fiction and ONLY my opinion. Therefore, take it as you see fit. FWIW Dave Ahh!!! ok thanks for the insite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HLS30-08077 Posted June 27, 2009 Share Posted June 27, 2009 No problem, but like I said, It just seems more logical to cut the lips for a functioning unit. Have a great week-end, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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