proxlamus© Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 2 questions.. do you re-use the stock slave cylinder for the clutch?! and is it possible to use the stock mechanical speedometer?! or am I stuck buying a new electronic speedo?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 Update.. I used the stock slave cylinder in my swap.. I didn't need an extension with the slave cylinder hose.. everything worked out great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted October 15, 2008 Share Posted October 15, 2008 I'm posting this in ALL 3 threads regarding the Z32 transmission swap We can still use the FACTORY speedometer with the Z32/RB25 5-speed transmission swap!! Mike Rowe was able to find a mechanical speedometer pinion assembly (Nissan part number 32702-02G17) that came from a Nissan Hardbody (D21) truck... with the manufacture years (1986.5-1994) This replaces the electric speedometer output.. and converts it to a mechanical speedometer output!! Incredibly.. the speedometer cable bolts right up to the new pinion assembly and it works!! I think it cost me around $46 from Nissan =) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted October 15, 2008 Share Posted October 15, 2008 Nice find!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kash Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 Unbelievable!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 HOLY MOLY! You just saved me $300 for the electric to mechanical converter. I am placing my order for that part now! How close does the speedo read with which pinion/rear/tires? http://www.courtesyparts.com/ sells it for $28.00 It looks like the pinions cost about $12.00 each and are available in 17,18,19,20,21, and 22 teeth Thanks Mike and ProX!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 Hey Guys, I finally have Z32 shifter relocators for those of you that are still working on swaps. I am having the protptype tested by a member who is working on his swap and once I get the okay from him then I will make the rest of them...should be about 2 weeks and they will be ready to go. They are simple and strong, made from steel, TIG'd and powerdercoated. Pruchasing Details / Pricing: Relocator: $80 via Paypal to hokeperformance@gmail.com Shipping: Continental US: FREE Canada: $5 Overseas: Contact for quote Shoot me a PM if your interested in purchasing one, as always I wont take payment until these things are boxed and ready to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kash Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Sure wish I had seen this post yesterday. I dropped off mine at a local machine shop to get some additional fab work done to it this morning. I hope they haven't started the work yet...do you have a ball park price??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrcheeze36 Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Sure wish I had seen this post yesterday. I dropped off mine at a local machine shop to get some additional fab work done to it this morning. I hope they haven't started the work yet...do you have a ball park price??? Look at his post again...the price is listed there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kash Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Look at his post again...the price is listed there Time for glasses...thanks man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 Ken didn't you buy my relocator?! what additional work was required?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kash Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 Ken didn't you buy my relocator?! what additional work was required?! Yea, everything bolt up fine but it was hitting the pasenger side of the trans tunnel and one of welds on the left side cracked when I bent the bracket during the install. Had the machine shop remove a small section to allow for clearance and added a few support welds in the critical areas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 Aww man! Remember i sent ya a PM saying you will need to do some slight tapping on the actual transmission tunnel to fit the adapter. Either that or cut off the corner of the bracket with an angle grinder or something. I didnt realize the bracket touched the tunnel untill I finally raised the unit in place. Like I mentioned the unit was a quick prototype... but works with a bit of massaging. The machine shop didn't charge you much did they?! I feel bad now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kash Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 No big deal man, I did not want to hammer the tunnel and he only charged me $20. I have been having a very bad vibration coming from the shifter under acceleration and primarly in first and second, any ideas? I'm running the Garrett style transmission mount with the 7 inch carriage bolts and I installed all new OEM bushings and shifter components as you recommended to fit the Fidanza shifter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jax Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 Gents, I have purchased the adaptor from 240hooke, I have machined and install the adapter. My issue is that I can not use the Z32 stock shifter, because I have my L28 in a shorther vechicle, this means that I have to use the shifter that you guys have been mentioning in the forum. The one that goes right on top of the black cover. I have order a shifter from courtesy parts, but the shifter cover plate and the SS shifter guide plate that goes into the tranny does not fit. I am really stuck here, can you help me and advice which shiter should I use, or where I can buy the right shifter to work on the Z32 tranny ????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearheadstik Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 What is your vechicle? Spell check your post..hahaha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jax Posted March 9, 2009 Share Posted March 9, 2009 Hahaha, That is right, well the vehicle is a Hyundai Stellar 4 door, so it is a pretty heavy vehicle, even so the L28 was capable to push it at 12.89 e.t on the quarter mile. But this is the limit of the L28 tranny, I really need to swap this Z32 tranny under the vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jax Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 OK I'll get right to it. Heres the basic kit. You will still need to get a driveshaft made. This kit is available for sale and can be purchased through Mazworx.com In order to do this swap you'll have already taken the bellhousing of the Z32 trans off to get it machined to accept the adaptor. But I'm gonna cover putting it back together just in case. Heres what you should have. I stood mine up like this for reassembly but it could lay flat too. The first thing you'll need to do is locate this thrust bearing with matching plate. The bearing goes here on the countershaft, rollers facing up. And the plate goes here, concave side up. Make sure your mating surfaces are clean and then silicone up both sides. Next go ahead and install bolts and zip em tight. Now turn your attention to the shifter and shifter plate that came in the kit. 4 bolts/nuts and mount it in the same location as the stock shifter. The plate is installed over the shifter linkage. This spacer setup also needs to be installed with the shifter as pictured. Now that the shifter is installed, make sure that the tranny is in NEUTRAL. Now turn your attention to this sleeve/ball/spring setup. Guide the sleeve in first, then the ball, then the spring, then the tightening bolt. Tighten all the way down. Installed The last thing to do is to clean up the mounting surfaces on the front plate, inside the bell. There is a large C-clip snap ring that goes on the main bearing, and a smaller C-clip that goes on the striking rod that comes through the bell. Sorry didnt get a pic of that. Once those are installed, silicone the surfaces and bolt it up. Now you'll want to setup the fork/throwout setup. You will reuse the L28 throwout bearing and use the Z32 fork. Once that stuff is on you're ready to bolt it up. Now grab the adaptor and bolt it up to the engine using the tapered bolts (for the countersunk holes). Now before you bolt up the trans, there are two areas that need a little attention with a cut off wheel. the first is the shifter opening. I took off a tad more than needed but the shifter will sit further back than the stock shifter does. Now the second area that needs attention (I took pics, but now cant find them ) is the Tranny crossmember ears (1972 and up I think). The case of the z32 trans is a good bit wider and needs a little more clearance. Take the cut off wheel and take a good 1/2" or so off the inside edge. Pay particular attention to the front drivers side ear as this is where the most interferance will happen. This ear must have more material removed, even cutting into the bolt hole and upwards. At this point I tilted the engine back a bit and bolted the tranny up to the adaptor. Then using a jack to support the underside of the tranny. With that said, this is how I chose to do the tranny Xmember. No its not the most glamorous approach but it uses the stock tranny crossmember and I can GUARANTEE that it AINT GOING NOWHERE. If you wanna cut off the ears and relocate them or weld up your own crossmember, be my guest. Hehe The Z32 mount location is further back. Bolt your stock crossmember pieces to the trans and jack up the tranny into the tunnel. I slotted the bolt holes on the mount so that the crossmember comes up exactly rearward of the ears. With the trans all the way up in the tunnel, I then ran two 1/2"x7" Stainless Steel Carriage Bolts through the ears and into the stock crossmember, using lock washers and nuts on either side of both ears. With all the nuts tightened its SOLID. This philosophy is identical to how an engine stand works. I went ahead and took some pics of shifter location now that the tranny is installed. Driveshaft specs: Length I gave them was 29 1/16" from flange to output shaft Flange yoke I used (same as zx turbo i believe) Powertrain Industries(spicer) part #3102-20 Slip yoke I used (30 spline z32) Powertrain Industries (spicer) part #3103-30 Spicer U-joints 1310 series #5-785X Spicer Tube Yokes #2-28-437 They had to order a few of these parts in which tagged a few bucks onto the bill but my total was $304.39 This Driveshaft is good for 800+ft lbs torque Hello, I was wondering if this plate can be used with the Z31 transmission the FS5R30A....... Are the bolt pattern the same ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big-phil Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 Hello, I was wondering if this plate can be used with the Z31 transmission the FS5R30A....... Are the bolt pattern the same ???? YES! I'm installing one as we speak from a 87-89 Z31 SS turbo car, and I'm making a video of the install. If I can lift it in there tomorrow by my self, then the video will be posted soon. Here is part one of the install Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted March 30, 2009 Share Posted March 30, 2009 Following up Prox's post: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=141444&highlight=speedo I've been driving with this pinion for a while. It reads about 10 mph off (too fast) at a "measured" 75 mph, at least per the calcs I've done with tire size and gearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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