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HybridZ

Started my suspension overhaul


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Man this is a lot of work, but my new 33gal compressor and air tools make life much easier

 

So everything on the car was done but the suspension was still haunting me, so i broke down and got to it

 

I just finished stripping most of it off.

 

Front removed strut, control arm, sway bar, t/c rods, steering tie rods, all bushings.

 

Rear I am almost done but i cant get my passenger side spindle pin out, the drivers came right out, weird.

 

Also i went to use a 27mm socket to get the axle nut off and it didnt fit, the nut is like a 32mm, making me think someone has done this before already, plus the axle spins very smoothly, makes me think someone already did bearings, damn and I just spend $140 on bearings

 

I am swaping in a 280z stub axle, but getting the last few things off is a pita

 

Also I ruined the threads on the driver side front strut housing axle, so now I need 1 new strut housing

 

Parts going in:

 

front already has 280zx hubs and AZC willwood brake kit

 

Front---

1" front sway bar

ES end links

ES bar mount

TechnoToyTuning T/C rod

Control arm bushings

AZC bumpsteer spacer

New ball joints

New tie rods

Ground control coilover 225lb

Tokiko illuminas

SPC camber bolt kit

New upper strut bearings

New wheel bearings

 

Rear---

280z stub axles

New bearings

Control arm bushings

ground control coilovers 250lb

Tokiko illuminas

Disk brake conversion

 

So I almost got all the parts off. Ruined 2 spindle pins and 1 strut housing in the process though. Damn I cant wait to get this thing up and runing, especially since before all the bushings were shot, shocks were blown, bearings were old, etc....the car should feel much better I hope

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thats what im really hoping for, especialy when i finally get my passenger side spindle pin out, hahaa

 

 

on a side note, i put all my stock suspension pieces that i will be reusing in my friends new parts washer, holy ♥♥♥♥ that thing is great, it stripped ALLL the paint, rust, grease, dirt off and the parts came out clean, bare metal, its awesome

 

Control arms, strut housings, everything, so its gonna be cake to paint them

 

I am painting them all anodized red and a bit of black here and there

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The first time I drove my Z with the new coilover suspension was awesome! It rode like a go kart instead of like a bus. Once I got my illuminas on the right numbers it handled very neutral through the corners with right foot oversteer...nice.

I still have a lot to do to the front suspension though.

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my illuminas will be here tomorow

 

I finally am in the assembly stage, got all parts cleaned and painted, looks very nice, bushings all installed, sway bar mounted and now i gotta tackle the strut housings, coilovers, wheel bearings, etc

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I just started on my suspension rebuild today, too. I'm doing new bushings all around, tie rod ends and ball joints, 1"-f and 7/8"-r anti-roll bars, illuminas, and coilovers. I'm really looking forward to driving this thing when it's done.

 

I've got the car jacked up now and am starting to disassemble the front end.

 

Do you guys know, if I ask the muffler shop to weld the stops onto my strut tubes, do I have to worry about them warping the tubes or something if they suck? They can't be worse than me if they weld every day and I'd do it myslef if I had a welder handy.

 

Also, I've been reading through alot of the old posts here; one of the regulars mentioned staying away from poly bushings at the tc-rod mounts (hayns calls them the radius rods). Anyone know why that is? Do they flex too much and break w/ the poly bushings?

 

Cheers,

--Dan

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Also, I've been reading through alot of the old posts here; one of the regulars mentioned staying away from poly bushings at the tc-rod mounts (hayns calls them the radius rods). Anyone know why that is? Do they flex too much and break w/ the poly bushings?

I'm guessing that was me, and here's the reason why: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=87758

 

Use a poly in front and stock rubber in back and that should lessen the stress on the rod a lot.

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Thats why for $200 i got some Technotoytuning T/C rods, they are badass looking, adjustable, beefy and are on a heim joint so they travel up and down effortlessly and smooth

 

The front suspension is DONE and looks awesome

 

On to the rear.

 

I had a steel shop grind off the stock welds and weld on the ground control stop 2" below it, they know what they are doing and he did an awesome job welding it on, real clean, no warping

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Hi Nazar:

 

I noticed your parts list includes adjustable camber bolts vs. camber plates, allowing you to retain the stock upper isolator. Have you taken your car in for an alignment? Say for example you lowered the car 2-3", were you able to dial out enough camber to get back to 1-2* (neg) up front?

 

 

Thanks,

 

Greg.

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i'll be going next week, this cam bolt setup only allows .75* each way, but its ok because I want aggressive camber, I may just be adding that actually

 

I want about 2-2.5* camber up front.

 

Guys, question: My adjustable T/C rod lets me do exactly what? Toe or Caster? And exactly what is caster good for?

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i'll be going next week' date=' this cam bolt setup only allows .75* each way, but its ok because I want aggressive camber, I may just be adding that actually

 

I want about 2-2.5* camber up front. [/quote']

$5 says you end up with about .75 degrees negative in front, 2 degrees neg or more in back.

Guys, question: My adjustable T/C rod lets me do exactly what? Toe or Caster? And exactly what is caster good for?

Search. Or read this: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107794 I thought I already pointed you to that thread. Did you not read the whole thing the first time?

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I just set the front on the ground with wheels....

 

I should have known, at the level drop i was at before, i had absolutely no suspension travel, especially now with bumpstops in(previous owner took them out)

 

Hmmm....i either need sectioned struts or at least the camber plates for sure.

 

damn....

 

How much more travel do the camber plates offer over stock upper perches???

 

Right now, with my ride height, and my energy suspension bushings in uncut, the car sits right where the bumpstop is touching the strut(mind you the bumpstop is a good 2" long)

 

I am on 225lb rates up front, 250lb in the rear, how much suspension travel do i need to keep to not bottom out with those rates?

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nazar i pm'd you but no one seems to get my pm's for some reason.

 

what wheels are those? i love them.

 

is it your car that is running the carbon ZG flares that i see on every website? i notice they are the same wheels.

nevermind, i noticed they are centerline thrusters (Nice!!!) and they are not the same as the wheels in the carbon zg flare pic, but similar!

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