Pulled a Michael Jackson (painted my car w/pix)

[EMWHYR0HEN]

looks nice remind me of my old 260z, like hte white on black. I seriously thought about doing my 240z white again. I dont think there is a better choice to hid body work and imperfections, dark colors jsut show everything... I found that out the hard way.

 

 

Amen to that. Your color looks good though, very classic.

[b__sosick]

EMWHYR0HEN: man that's nice!!! bet it hauls some ass! so that's the RB25DE right? what did they put the non turbo RB in?

[mrkopsho]

Ive cut and buffed so many cars I can't even count them and if there is one thing I can tell you about buffing on a single stage paint job it's to make sure you have some extra color left. I saw some of the runs and your gonna have one hell of a time try'n to sand those out without cutting all the way thru the surounding area. Dont use your hand!!!!! Sand with a block. Use very light pressure. The object is going to be to let the sand paper just hit the high spot with out hitting around it. I dont even use single stage any more for several reasons but since you already did the job I can tell you how the "old timers do it". Right now you have a good "base" on the car so what we used to do is wet sand the entire car out. Use a block over the runs to get them flat. Then use your hand to do the rest. I would use 400 or 320 wet. Then retape and shoot the outside of the car again but this time you do what is I call a piss coat. You over reduce you paint by 1/2 more than called for. So if the paint mix ratio is 4 to 1, you make it 4 to 1-1/2. Then as you paint, only put just enough paint to make it flow out. Kind of like if you are putting down clear. You only want enough to make the surface look wet and slick. If you broke thru your white while you were wet sanding in some spots you should go over them first with your normally reduced paint just in those spots to cover them and then do the rest of the car with the over reduced paint. Three coats should do it. Remember to let it dry at least 15 min before each coat. Longer if its below 75 outside. If you can do this without runs, all you'll need to do is hit any dirt spots with a 1000-1500 grit wet paper and lightly buff.

 

I know this sounds like alot of work but as I said before. I have buffed ALOT of cars and from the runs I saw I'd be very suprised if you could sand out those without breaking thru. BTW The color is very nice! Makes me want to change mine now.. Good luck.

[EMWHYR0HEN]

EMWHYR0HEN: man that's nice!!! bet it hauls some ass! so that's the RB25DE right? what did they put the non turbo RB in?

 

 

Thanks man. It's quick, but not fast. Im guessing somewhere in the low to mid 14's 1/4 mile. However, the good thing is that it's still bone stock so I have a good foundation to build a monster of an n/a engine.

 

It came in R33 and R34 skylines and a C33 luaral (4 door sedan) in Japan only of course. Pretty cheap and easy swap IMO.

[EMWHYR0HEN]

Ive cut and buffed so many cars I can't even count them and if there is one thing I can tell you about buffing on a single stage paint job it's to make sure you have some extra color left. I saw some of the runs and your gonna have one hell of a time try'n to sand those out without cutting all the way thru the surounding area. Dont use your hand!!!!! Sand with a block. Use very light pressure. The object is going to be to let the sand paper just hit the high spot with out hitting around it. I dont even use single stage any more for several reasons but since you already did the job I can tell you how the "old timers do it". Right now you have a good "base" on the car so what we used to do is wet sand the entire car out. Use a block over the runs to get them flat. Then use your hand to do the rest. I would use 400 or 320 wet. Then retape and shoot the outside of the car again but this time you do what is I call a piss coat. You over reduce you paint by 1/2 more than called for. So if the paint mix ratio is 4 to 1, you make it 4 to 1-1/2. Then as you paint, only put just enough paint to make it flow out. Kind of like if you are putting down clear. You only want enough to make the surface look wet and slick. If you broke thru your white while you were wet sanding in some spots you should go over them first with your normally reduced paint just in those spots to cover them and then do the rest of the car with the over reduced paint. Three coats should do it. Remember to let it dry at least 15 min before each coat. Longer if its below 75 outside. If you can do this without runs, all you'll need to do is hit any dirt spots with a 1000-1500 grit wet paper and lightly buff.

 

I know this sounds like alot of work but as I said before. I have buffed ALOT of cars and from the runs I saw I'd be very suprised if you could sand out those without breaking thru. BTW The color is very nice! Makes me want to change mine now.. Good luck.

 

 

Wow, thanks for all of your experienced advice. Sad thing is, im completely done now, lol. You cant really tell from my last pictures because the car is white, but its already sanded smooth and buffed to a nice shine.

 

Wish i could have posted and gotten your advice before i painted though.

I Did have alot of runs, but a guy at a body shop showed me how to carfully slice the runs off with a razor blade. Then from there i just slowly wet sanded with 1200, then 2000. Let me tell you just that process took me 9 hours to do. When i did shoot the paint, I saw the runs and made sure i added a little more paint in the area so i didnt break through when i sanded. I put a total of 4 coats on the entire car and a lil more on the run areas.

 

Lesson learned: dont run the paint off the panel when painting!

 

Now that I have some experience painting, maybe next time i'll do a 2 stage base and clear coat.

[mrkopsho]

Glad to hear you put the extra paint down. That's always a good idea around areas that sag or run but I didnt know you did it so I figured you'd be sure to break thru.

When you go for the base clear job just remember the scratches wont get covered by the paint like a single stage. Depending on what paint you use even 320-400 scratches could show. I use Diamaont which is a R.M. product and its a polyester base coat so if you use anything rougher than 600 wet you'll see scratches. As far as the Clear goes, it should spray down very much like the single stage you already have experience with. Just spray it down lightly and dont worry about it being to "dry" If you put enough coats on you'll be ok. Its alot easier to cut down rough areas than runs as you probably already figured out. If you have any questions, feel free...

[piston]

gotta admit. the white looks cleaner...