Rumnhammer Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 Hi all, got to the point of starting the car, and it is not firing! I have all the wiring checked, the fuel pump is turning on for 5 seconds to presurize the rail then turning off like it should, I directly grounded the relay to keep it running while I tried cranking it and still nothing so it is not a fuel delivery problem, at least not at the pump. So it is either the injectors are not firing or I have no spark. The car is cranking over fine, just not firing. any suggestions? Chris Rummel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loy Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 How come you haven't checked for spark or injectors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumnhammer Posted October 14, 2006 Author Share Posted October 14, 2006 Cuz is was getting dark and cold, plus what is the easiest way to check on for spark on the RB? I'll try and listen for the injectors tomorrow, figured I'd do better to sleep on it and try fresh tomorrow. And since I figured I could save some time by posting on here to see what you guys thought, before I go down the wrong road so to speak. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 I also ran into the same problem at first. You need to physically check for spark. Pull out one plug and stick the coil pack on it and have someone crank the engine and see if there is spark. If you dont, you need to systematically check the whole ignition system. But since you just swapped the engine, I would check that your supplying the coils with power. there are 2 relays near the ecu, they should both click when you put the car in ignition and get ready to fire the engine. Let us know what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumnhammer Posted October 14, 2006 Author Share Posted October 14, 2006 I spent most of this evening going back over the schematics, I think the coil wiring is good to go, since I know for sure that those relays for ignition are getting power (did lots of tracing will check for sure tomorrow) I'm thinking my injectors are not firing, because the only thing I didn't power up was the AF81 wire, was thinking it was connected already from the other AF36 wire, but on the schematic it shows it's not, and in the wiring for going into a 240sx they make note of wiring it into the AF36 wire separatly so I think that is what my problem is. I haven't had someone crank it while I listen, but as much as I've cranked it, if the injectors were firing, I should be able to smell raw fuel at the tailpipe from the fuel being cycled through without being burned and I dont' smell the raw fuel, so that combined with knowing that I haven't powered up the AF81 wire makes me think that the injectors are not firing. I guess I'll find out for sure tomorrow. wish me luck Chris Rummel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z_Master Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 Good Luck Chris! (btw hows the wife, kid, and dog?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjfawke Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 What error codes is the computer displaying? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 well you gotta give power to AF81 for Injectors power..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fraz Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 You could disconnect the ignition module power plug, remove the crank angle sensor and with it plugged in and the key on, spin it in an anti-clockwise direction, you will hear the injectors clicking, if not, you probably have lost a feed somewhere Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumnhammer Posted October 14, 2006 Author Share Posted October 14, 2006 Thanks to all, I'll get some power going to the injectors this afternoon when I get a chance to work on the car, hopefully this evening I'll be posting all is well. Q, family and dog doing well thanks. I'll post all the wiring for this and the gauges as soon as it runs, I've been waiting to post just in case this type of thing popped up. I don't want to post anything that leaves you hanging. I just looked at the schematic again and found I wired the check engine light backwards so I'll have to change that too. I think I'll post pics of the exhaust I made too, it turned out really nice, for the downpipe I had to add an inch and half of length to the downpipe section because the engine fits about an inch higher in the Z then in the skyline. I also added a secondary O2 bung in the downpipe and I'm glad I did too, because I'm using the JDM HKS upper downpipe and with that one the O2 sensor just missed the steering rod, in fact once the car was on the ground it touched the locking bolt on the steering rod, so I moved the O2 sensor to the lower bung. Chris Rummel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumnhammer Posted October 15, 2006 Author Share Posted October 15, 2006 Well the AF81 wire was the problem, The car started and ran like a top, one small fuel leak from on old bit of hose that I replaced, and a small adjustment to the idle screw at the throttlebody and we are good to go. Now I just need to get the gauges to work, I wired in the temp gauge, but I think the resistor in the sensor is wrong for the l28 gauge, and it definatly will need a tach adapter. other then that it runs pretty sweet. sounds great too. Chris Rummel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z_cars_rule Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 YAY for running RB power !!! congrats on getting it started, and i hope you sort out the gauges soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMWHYR0HEN Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 Good job Chris! Glad to hear you got that sucker running. Hmm, who knew you would need a tach adapter? lol. Let us know if you get your stock temp gauge to work with the RB thermal sensor. I tried it once and messed with it for a little bit and just gave up so I tapped in a mechanical auto meter temp gauge, but if you get it to work id like to get mine working also so I can free up some room for another gage. Oh, and post some pix or vids if you can, i'm sure we'd all like to see! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bishopsrock Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 Hi Chris, Big congrats on getting your motor up and running - hey now you can have years of endless fun setting up the handling!!! Im still trying to fathom how to make intercooler bends over 90 degrees to take the Arizona Z intercooler I bought through the existing holes in the front panel - anyone? Well done Chris im made up for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjfawke Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 Re. the tach, if you have a 240 with the inductive pickup on the back of the tach, just remove the existing wire from pickup and run the power feed to the ignition igniter through instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumnhammer Posted October 16, 2006 Author Share Posted October 16, 2006 For the tach I already replaced it with the autometer one, it's my friends car, so I already told him that he will have to get a tach adapter, he's cool with it. for the temp gauge, I'm going to see if I can get an adapter to use the stock L-28 sender in the place of the RB sender. either that or find out the resistance of the L-28 sender and get a sender that fits in the RB spot. Andy, I used the Megan racing intercooler that has the outlets near the top, also using a greddy intake so the piping is pretty simple, I did make some clearancing dimples in the fenderwell on the inside of the engine compartment to clearance the intake side plumbing and used a plasma cutter to make the intake side opening for the larger piping. Chris Rummel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.