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primer problem


cuzak901

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I've been working on my car for 5 months now and getting really close to paint. Not a pro on body work so what I want to do is use an exterior latex paint for houses on my car to fill in any minor sctatches or other imperfections. basicly I want to use it like a filler primer. Is there any reason why I should not use it? After it's wet sanded id like to use automotive primer. The exterior latex primer is oil based, so could this cause any problems? To apply it I'd like to use a foam roller.

 

I did use it on my other car (not Z) but haven't painted over it and dont intend to. it stayed on and is sandable.

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This is a joke right? If not auto paint is expensive. Trying to save a little money using house paint as a base will come back and haunt you . Auto primer will fill small scratches and imperfection within reason. Do it right, you'll be much happpier after it's all done. After the months I spent doing body work, there was no way I would take a risky short cut.

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It's one thing if you wanted to go the Rustoleum route, and roll that Rust protection paint on. It's been tested and seems to work great for a cheap alternative and good looking (non showroom) paint job... But why would you risk all those hours of sanding and hard work to skip one of the most important steps in a nice paint job? The first layers of a paint job are the most important. If you wanted to go the cheaper route, i'd switch it around and use a really nice filler primer, and use a cheap top coat...but not the other way around. and especially don't mix those kinds of paint... Nice auto primer/filler isn't that expensive compared to the risk of cracking and bubbling and peeling in a few months after all those hours of arm wrenching sanding, etc.... Do it right the first time and it will be worth it.

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Wow thanks alot!!

 

I won't do it to my car.

 

I posted this morninng and the advice came right in handy. this weekend was when I was going to do it.

I'll start looking for other primers. this sight is fast.

 

thanks for all the help!

 

look for upcoming Pics if my car.

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I painted my excavator when i bought it, and i did hours of cleanup and prep before I layed primer. The grease and oil that had been on the metal for so long from the pins and bushings took forever to get "clean". I thought it was fine to prime, but 2 weeks after i painted it, the area's where oil and grease would leak from hoses and pins was cracking. So to me, spend the most time cleaning the surface, and if you get all the contaminents off the surface, most paint's will give you a good result for a long time.

 

Goto ur local paint shop, and ask for a good priced primer/filler and i'm sure they'll have somthing to match your top coat paint.

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  • 2 weeks later...

got another problem, probly small but, primered my car using a polyprimer thats a high build formula. after i painted it i could see the shadow of the bondo under it. will this get fixed with another coat.

 

another thing can i put an epoxy primer on top of it to seal it perminantly or its not compatible. i plan to leave the car flat black.

 

thanks, guys

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got another problem, probly small but, primered my car using a polyprimer thats a high build formula. after i painted it i could see the shadow of the bondo under it. will this get fixed with another coat.

 

another thing can i put an epoxy primer on top of it to seal it perminantly or its not compatible. i plan to leave the car flat black.

 

thanks, guys

 

For the body filler problem, "try again :P." Sand the area (and around it) down untill it transitions from unfilled to filled part is unnoticable to the touch (not sight). then reprimer. From my experience, depending on the primer, it might adhere differently from one compound from another (unfilled to filled). Just sand the surface of the primer (not through) and shoot another coat, untill it is un noticable.

 

Epoxy primers are sealer primers. Not really noticable if the body work is flush and even and even coats are sprayed.

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