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L28et not starting


Wide260z

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I have recently finished the swap of an l28et into my 260. With the ecu wired in and everything hooked up it still will not start. The timing is correct, it is getting spark through the msd, but it still is not starting. Everyone that has looked at the car is completely baffled. You can smell gas, but it seems that the injectors arn't getting a signal on an analog (needle) meter. It took my ecu and put it in a friends running 82 turbo and it started right up. So.. it's not the ecu. Any help plz :confused:

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I can't hear anything at all. The injector plug is showing nothing on a my little needle meter. And the digital is too slow of course to pick it up. Anything else you can think of that would keep it from not firing the injectors? The injectors DO have 12v on them as well.

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You might have a wire going bad or disconnected that works the injectors.

 

Come to think about it, I saw in a recent thead some one had a starting problem and said there was a disconnected wire for the injectors that ran near the stater. Id try searching for "starter wire" or "near starter" or something like that.

 

~Alex

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I am going to check over the wiring tomorrow, take all the loom and tape off and trace down every wire going to the ecu.

 

If by green relay you mean EFI relay, it's good. The ecu has power, the injectors have power. Everything has power. The cas is in the distributor, and it is good because if it wasn't good i wouldn't be getting a spark signal from the computer, in which case i am. Thank you both for the help so far. If you can think of anything else please post it. Everytime you post something i havn't thought about checking (injector ticking) it helps a lot.

 

Kris~

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Check your injectors with a multimeter. They are negetive switched so you should have a constant hot on one side and a pulsed ground on the other. You don't always hear the injectors and if the engine isn't starting then you won't here them. Make sure you have that hot side. If the hot side isn't there then you could have a bad efi fusible link or a bad efi relay.

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The injectors are getting 12v. They should click when the car is being turned over because the cas is sensing the motor moving.

 

Uhhm.. Are you talking about the oil level sensor? The pressure sensor wouldn't pick up anything untill the car was started would it?

 

Mmm... anything else you can think of? :-D

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i was in this zone , it sucks i feel for you:-|....the best thing i have found is TO start over .

start with the ecu make sure all your connections are right and tight the lowest plug can be a big pain clean IT grease IT make sure its shotting singal {make sure of this }....this is a must frist thing anytime your l-6 turbo motor starts actting up , not firing the injector sigal ..i have a little lite that plugs in to the injector plugs its a must have !youc can pick one up at any auto parts store .the lowest plug on the ecu runs the injector pluse .....work smallest to biggest go slow and make sure all the connections are in the right places and conected well ......

Is your fuel pump coming on ? if you cant here it when the key is turned then its not however i bet if you wiggle that plug around it mite just start ..seems like you are getting spark as you have said but make sure of this.... BY pullING #3 plug cranking her over making sure you see spark ..dont give UP you'll figure it out ..swaps to turbo are such a pain stuped datsun they could have made it alot eazyer ...

...:icon45:

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I have an in-line bosch fuel pump that i got from a friend that was seized up. I put some silicone lube in it and took a 14.7v power supply and got it working. I figured it was good and put it in. I have the car running now, but it runs like anus, and will not accelerate. It can feather it up to about 1500rpms and that's about it.

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I had the same problems as you and found that my coil bracket needed to be grounded to my fender. Attatched to your coil bracket, the round metal thing that secures your coil to the fender, there is the ignitor--this needs to be working of course. Anyway, the ignitor is mounted to the coil bracket and bolts to your drivers-side fender. Sand of some fender paint to bare metal, then bolt the coil/ignitor to the bare metal fender so the ignitor touches the bare metal. Hopefully this will get you boosting--good luck.

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I had the same problems as you and found that my coil bracket needed to be grounded to my fender. Attatched to your coil bracket, the round metal thing that secures your coil to the fender, there is the ignitor--this needs to be working of course. Anyway, the ignitor is mounted to the coil bracket and bolts to your drivers-side fender. Sand of some fender paint to bare metal, then bolt the coil/ignitor to the bare metal fender so the ignitor touches the bare metal. Hopefully this will get you boosting--good luck.

 

Thanks. I've actually had this problem before when I got a new coil on my old skylines l20et.

 

The thing is the car was working fine and I didnt remove the ignition coil so how would it have came ungrounded/unsecure? I have kinda narrowed it down to either the fuel pump of the ignition module. It seems the ignition module is working as i have a strong spark... Its really annoying! Fine one second then dead the next...

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