Swap Kit Survey

[Forces]

I don't think you've covered what exactly you plan to do with your V8Z, or what the ultimate goal is. That too plays a roll in what kit to go with. As you mentioned before, long tube headers just don't work with the JTR kit, but you only really need long tube headers if you are running a BUILT engine, like you might want for a drag car. A daily driver with a stock 350 probably doesn't need that. In which case, JTR woould be a better choice due to drivability. I think that what your goal with the car is plays a large variable in your search for the best kit.

[Pop N Wood]

The hood latch is far from an insurmountable problem.

 

 

There is a flat spot on the underside of the hood to move the latch assembly to the right or left.

[Teekass]

Great idea Pop N Wood....thanks for the pic. Do you have the JTR kit?

 

Forces,

Sorry, I guess I wasnt very specific in my original post (all I said was it would be street driven, but more of a street-racing type). Right now, I believe the MSA kit will be the best for me, and this is why..(please correct me if I've overlooked something). I have a 500hp naturally aspirated 350 that I will put in the car first. Somewhere down the road, I plan on getting a 6-71 blower. I definitely want the long tube headers, so that leaves it between MSA and Scarab/Hooker. I also want as much room in front of the engine for blower belt, etc...so that leaves the MSA kit as the best choice......maybe Santa Clause will bring me one .

[buZy]

Oh another item I noticed about the MSA you all might find interesting. When I raised the LCA pivots .75 was as high up as I could go before interfernce with a drilled/bolt in the crossmember for the MSA mount.

[Pop N Wood]

Great idea Pop N Wood....thanks for the pic. Do you have the JTR kit?

 

That's not my car, nor my idea. Follow the hyperlink on the pic and it will take you to Pete Paraska's site.

 

I don't have a JTR kit because I went with an LS2 motor. Then I got cute and decided to use a carb and different transmission, so I had to build my own one-off mounts. I am using a lot of the info from the JTR manual. So no matter which mounting solution you choose, pick up a JTR book.

[Cable]

What's been done to your SBC to get an honest 500HP?

 

Thanks!!

[Teekass]

What's been done to your SBC to get an honest 500HP?

 

Thanks!!

 

Hey Cable,

It's funny you should ask with your UltraDyne sticker. I've never had this engine on a dyno, I'm basing it on numbers that UltraDyne posted shortly after I built this engine. My engine is a .030 over 350 with 10.5:1 forged pistons, Holley 750 dp that has been rebuilt and flows 930 cfm, Victor Jr. intake and Dart II Sportsman heads that have been ported and matched to the intake, and UltraDyne NF series solid camshaft. I'm not sure what the duration is at .050 but its advertised duration is 282/290 and gross valve lift is .542/.563. That doesn't sound like much duration, but this was one of their "tight lash - unsymmetrical lobe" series cams.....valve lash is set at .016 hot on intake and exhaust. I bought this camshaft in the early 90's, and the technology was pretty interesting. The cam holds the valve closed longer (when compared to a symmetrical cam) to build more cylinder pressure, then when the valve opens, the intake ramp is steeper than a symmetrical cam, so it catches up and passes (valve lift wise) the symmetrical cam, then the ramp tapers off at the top and is less steep on the closing side of the lobe to prevent the valve from "bouncing" off the seat when it closes. This cam outperformed their popular 288/296 duration camshaft in valve lift at .050 and in dyno tests, if that says anything. Anyway, UltraDyne built an almost identical motor, except they used 11.0:1 pistons (mine are 10.5:1), they used Dart II Sportsman heads right out of the box (mine have been ported and matched), and they used a Holley 750dp (mine flows 930). Their engine dyno'd at 510 hp.

 

I cant wait to put it in the Zcar. It ran 7.50's (1/8th mile) in the S-10 that I use to own.