jimlickster Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 Since Perfomance Engines have more Compression than Most Common Engines, I started to think that if Cold weather is Bad for a normal engine, It is probably More so for a Perfomance Engine. Particularly Vunerable would be a Newly Built engine. I have been Using 10W-30 In my New Performance Engine. I know that you're supposed to use Lighter Oil in the Winter. Should i use 5W-30? A buddy of mine told me that i should use a Heavier Oil (10W-40) To Break in my Engine. I told him that 10W-40 Is actually no Heavier than 10W-30. It Merely has more Viscosity. Should i wait until mid day, When it's Warmer, To Start my Engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnjdragracing Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 After I build a performance engine, I would break in the camshaft and lifters per mfg. suggestions. The ring will seat after it runs some. If the cam is used then I usually break them in at the drag strip. If it is going to break then it is going to break ( note I do use racing bearings with a grove in them and I have a lot of clearence ) What I call a performance engine and what you call one might be diffrient. I would not think cold weather would effect the breakin, it would just be harder to get the engine warm. I usually crank mine up, idle it up to keep it running, set the timming with a light or ear to keep it running then idle it up around 1000 - 1500 rpm let it reach operating temp. Checking oil pressure, temp, listen to engine, checking for oil leaks etc. The I would turn it up some, then to the drag strip or Dyno I go. Hope this helps...... John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mike Posted November 22, 2006 Share Posted November 22, 2006 I run Castrol Syntec 5-50. It doesn't get cold enough here in South Texas to bother with an oil warmer but, if I lived where the temp drops to 20 F degrees, I'd install an oil warmer. If the temp drops to zero F, I'd install a coolant warmer too. Many will say this is overkill but that's just me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexideways Posted November 23, 2006 Share Posted November 23, 2006 Use ab accusump to prelube your engine before startup. One thing to think about is the fact that forged metal, since it's more dense, it reacts more to temp. changes. With forged pistons, when it gets "winter" cold, my engine actually sound like a diesel from the "contracted" pistons slapping around in it's boar when it heats up, it quiets down. As Mike stated, use an oil warmer and a block heater so your fluids are up to temp before you start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mike Posted November 23, 2006 Share Posted November 23, 2006 Yes... alexideways has another good suggestion. Here are just a few examples of pre-oilers... http://www.allsyntheticsgroup.com/preoiler.html http://www.enginegearonline.com/proilchsy.html http://www.atk-engines.com/oiler.pdf http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CANTON-3-QUART-ACCUSUMP-DRAG-ROAD-RACE-PRE-OILER_W0QQitemZ8034798700QQcmdZViewItem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forces Posted November 23, 2006 Share Posted November 23, 2006 I was told by some guy at NAPA to use NON detergant straight 30 for the initial break in, after that oil weight is strictly preference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paz8 Posted November 23, 2006 Share Posted November 23, 2006 How cold is it where you are ? In the dead of winter the average daily low temp here is 20 deg. the high around 32 deg. I have used 10W-30 for ever and never had an oil related engine problem. The trick is to stick with the same brand name oil all the time. No one here other than a few diesel owners use block heaters and then only during very cold weather. If you you have a carb SBC just make sure the choke and fast idle is set up, I set mine at 1000 rpm at full choke. Start the engine and let it fast idle, if you have to rev the engine to keep it running it's hard on the piston skirts because of the reduced clearence (piston slap). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boodlefoof Posted November 23, 2006 Share Posted November 23, 2006 If you're talking about a non-roller cam, add a bottle of GM's Engine Oil Supplement ("EOS") to your oil when you're first breaking it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimlickster Posted November 23, 2006 Author Share Posted November 23, 2006 So Far it hasn't gotten colder than 25F here in Mississippi. It has gotten alot colder in the past, but i'm just the nervous type. I Finished the Engine just in time for the winter weather and didn't want to Ruin it. I had indeed heard that you shouldn't use differant Types of Oil. My 1985 Crown Victoria has had Lots of Differant kinds added to it and the Oil looks Sludgy. I would rebuild THAT engine too, but i don't think the car is worth it. Since Ford Can't make a Transmission to save their life and the Car it's self really isn't worth much now, I'm gonna just drive that one until it quits. I'll probably strip the 302 out of it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.