WEBEZEEed Posted December 18, 2006 Share Posted December 18, 2006 It's a stock 73,head has never been off,I get 150 to 155 psi. on all 6 cyls. I'm sure that AF ratio is a little much for about any NA motor. It wasn't a real tuning session, I'll get my s--t together and do a little carb experimenting and go back in the spring and buy some time on the dyno and see just how much better it can be. I'm sure I'll end up installing a wide band o2 before then, that should cut down on the dyno time purchased. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fhptom Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 74 260Z w/ l28 block bored.050,flat top pistons, p79 head, stock valves, cam 460" 270/280,dual SUs, stock exhaust manifold w/2.5" pipe. 123 rwhp 121 lb-ft torque. Switching to N42 head with 6-1 coated header and going to re-test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forcefed Z Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 I got to about 348rwhp on a dynojet I think 11 or 12 PSI. It was only about two pulls after getting my engine back together and changing a couple things, but the engine under boost was blowing coolant out of the resevoir so I think it was due to a faulty repair on my head. I will be back for more tho, turn up the boost ( I was only running on the spring) and mabe hit up the Nitrous... specs at that time were: L28ET GT35R with a T4 rear housing Unknown exhaust manifold Q45 throttle body and modified intake 650cc injectors mild head work( cleaned casting marks out of the head and matched the intake and exhaust ) overbore pistons and rods ballanced and blueprinted unknown cam and adj. gear 3" straight downpipe no muff. Apexi intercooler Microtech LT10 ECU Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LamboZ Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 I got to about 348rwhp on a dynojet I think 11 or 12 PSI. It was only about two pulls after getting my engine back together and changing a couple things, but the engine under boost was blowing coolant out of the resevoir so I think it was due to a faulty repair on my head. I will be back for more tho, turn up the boost ( I was only running on the spring) and mabe hit up the Nitrous... specs at that time were: L28ET GT35R with a T4 rear housing Unknown exhaust manifold Q45 throttle body and modified intake 650cc injectors mild head work( cleaned casting marks out of the head and matched the intake and exhaust ) overbore pistons and rods ballanced and blueprinted unknown cam and adj. gear 3" straight downpipe no muff. Apexi intercooler Microtech LT10 ECU that setup has ALOT more in it! ALOT MORE! just to show ya.. L28ET. JE Forged Pistons. 240Z Rods. ballanced and blueprinted. Custom Intake manifold. Custom exhaust manifold. T04S machined to fit a T66 wheel, 81a/r turbo. FMIC. 60lb injectors. 65mm t-body. Some head work with a 490 cam. Microtech LT10 ECU at 18psi was 420rwhp, still have alot of tuning left to do. And your setup is better then mine! nice numbers guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forcefed Z Posted January 15, 2007 Share Posted January 15, 2007 that setup has ALOT more in it! ALOT MORE! just to show ya.. L28ET. JE Forged Pistons. 240Z Rods. ballanced and blueprinted. Custom Intake manifold. Custom exhaust manifold. T04S machined to fit a T66 wheel, 81a/r turbo. FMIC. 60lb injectors. 65mm t-body. Some head work with a 490 cam. Microtech LT10 ECU at 18psi was 420rwhp, still have alot of tuning left to do. And your setup is better then mine! nice numbers guys! hey man thanx for the heads up...im just trying to get everything sorted out to be perfect and well see what #'s it makes......If it goes past 500 I have to shave my head, so I kind of hope it does, and at the same time I dont... my setup is pretty similar to yours, it be nice to see some pics. I was thinking of building a better exhaust manifold with better runners then the on I have on there now, so it would be intersting to see what you have done there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roostmonkey Posted January 16, 2007 Share Posted January 16, 2007 stock internals T3T04E 450cc i njectors 60mm TB match ported to manifold Wolf 3D 2.5 to 3" DP, 3" w/ glaspack LG I/C with 2.5" plumbing 326 whp,320 ft/lbs T @ 13 psi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CantZme Posted January 20, 2007 Author Share Posted January 20, 2007 roostmonkey, is that a stock cam setup? how are u making those kind of numbers at such low boost? suprising what kind of numbers these oudated low compression single cam motors can make with a few mods... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WEBEZEEed Posted January 20, 2007 Share Posted January 20, 2007 I'm confused, the graph reads power at the (flywheel) written description just above it reads (whp)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted January 20, 2007 Share Posted January 20, 2007 I did the EFI installation and tuning of this car. The Dynapack dynometer refers to the flywheel in the pods that attach to the rear hubs. It is wheel HP. I know because my Z makes about the same power on a Dynapack as a Dynojet. The most important investment you can make is in good aftermarket engine management, and a good turbo. For engine management, we used a Wolf 3D with direct ignition. For a turbo we used a T04E compressor with a T3 stage 3 turbine. Makes the same amount of torque as a stock turbo, but flows a lot more producing more HP. He is also has a fairly large intercooler in there, but intercoolers don't do a lot on the dyno, especially when you have the fan pointed at the radiator. Yes, the entire long block is stock (7.4:1 CR). Just a fresh head gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan280zt Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 I have made 335whp and 345 ftq at 14psi with stock motor but even lower copression that stock (2mm headgasket + combustion chamber work). Mods are: t3-t04R big I/C haltech e6k 550's custom intake manifold greddy exhaust manifold 24deg of timing at wot That should be it. Now I have very large cam, 20+psi, ati dampner and kameari timing kit. Hoping for 430+whp on stock bottom end. Ivo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fhptom Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 Just got back from dyno today and got my my numbers after switching to N42 head (>10.5:1), 6-1 header from MSA and reworking SU carbs. Previous # 121 rwhp 123 torque New # 165.83 rwhp 163.44 lb-ft @ 5400 rpm. HP was still going up as we shut down test. 2nd run matched first after 15 minute cool down. Not bad gains for free head and $250 header. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slow_Old_Car Posted May 2, 2007 Share Posted May 2, 2007 I did the EFI installation and tuning of this car. The Dynapack dynometer refers to the flywheel in the pods that attach to the rear hubs. It is wheel HP. I know because my Z makes about the same power on a Dynapack as a Dynojet. The most important investment you can make is in good aftermarket engine management, and a good turbo. For engine management, we used a Wolf 3D with direct ignition. For a turbo we used a T04E compressor with a T3 stage 3 turbine. Makes the same amount of torque as a stock turbo, but flows a lot more producing more HP. He is also has a fairly large intercooler in there, but intercoolers don't do a lot on the dyno, especially when you have the fan pointed at the radiator. Yes, the entire long block is stock (7.4:1 CR). Just a fresh head gasket. I have made 335whp and 345 ftq at 14psi with stock motor but even lower copression that stock (2mm headgasket + combustion chamber work). Mods are: t3-t04R big I/C haltech e6k 550's custom intake manifold greddy exhaust manifold 24deg of timing at wot That should be it. Now I have very large cam, 20+psi, ati dampner and kameari timing kit. Hoping for 430+whp on stock bottom end. Ivo got timing tables for either of these setups? i'd like to see how it flows cause i'm doing 19 degree's at 15psi WOT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan280zt Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Slow_Old_Car, I am not sure if I can do printout of my timing table with haltech (never had reason to try it) but my timing map is pretty simple. I run between 32-35 deg on cruise and light loads but as soon as it starts to see boost I take about 1/2deg out for each 1psi. So at 10psi I am running about 28deg and bye the time I hit 20 psi I am down to about 24deg. Only thing that do is I go easy on timing right around my peak torque 4500rpm (about 22 deg) and I start adding timing back in right afther it to about 24-25deg from about 4700rpm to 7000rpm. Since your cylinder pressure is highest at peak torque that would be one area to take it easy on timing. Ivo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forcefed Z Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Put down 450 rwhp on the weekend then ran out of injector........Ive got some bigger injectors I will put in there soon and up the boost a bit more then hit the spray... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 got timing tables for either of these setups? i'd like to see how it flows cause i'm doing 19 degree's at 15psi WOT. We are running around 24 degrees at 14psi. At atmospheric pressure the timing is around 33 degrees. As the boost increases, the timing is backed off in a linear fashion until it reaches 24 degrees at 14psi. Idle is around 25, and gradually increases to 33 at atmospheric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Gad Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Just got back from dyno today and got my my numbers after switching to N42 head (>10.5:1), 6-1 header from MSA and reworking SU carbs. Previous # 121 rwhp 123 torque New # 165.83 rwhp 163.44 lb-ft @ 5400 rpm. HP was still going up as we shut down test. 2nd run matched first after 15 minute cool down. Not bad gains for free head and $250 header. Good deal Tom, it's about time you got the new head on!! That 40+ hp/tq should make your track time a little more enjoyable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slow_Old_Car Posted May 3, 2007 Share Posted May 3, 2007 Slow_Old_Car, I am not sure if I can do printout of my timing table with haltech (never had reason to try it) but my timing map is pretty simple. I run between 32-35 deg on cruise and light loads but as soon as it starts to see boost I take about 1/2deg out for each 1psi. So at 10psi I am running about 28deg and bye the time I hit 20 psi I am down to about 24deg. Only thing that do is I go easy on timing right around my peak torque 4500rpm (about 22 deg) and I start adding timing back in right afther it to about 24-25deg from about 4700rpm to 7000rpm. Since your cylinder pressure is highest at peak torque that would be one area to take it easy on timing. Ivo We are running around 24 degrees at 14psi. At atmospheric pressure the timing is around 33 degrees. As the boost increases, the timing is backed off in a linear fashion until it reaches 24 degrees at 14psi. Idle is around 25, and gradually increases to 33 at atmospheric. looks like i'm going to have to create a experimental timing map to play with, sounds like i'm being way too conservative. whats compression on these 2 motors? and what kind of fuel diet? i'm doing 7:1 on 93 pump, L28ET-p90/f54 w/ HKS 2MM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 looks like i'm going to have to create a experimental timing map to play with, sounds like i'm being way too conservative. whats compression on these 2 motors? and what kind of fuel diet? i'm doing 7:1 on 93 pump, L28ET-p90/f54 w/ HKS 2MM. Get your AFR right first, then give it more timing. You should be able to run 26 degrees of advance easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
510six Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 I will post my old dyno with a large shot of N20 and a small T4 turbo. 535 rwh and 469 fpt .I am hoping for 500rwh and another hundred or so on a small shot of N20 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slow_Old_Car Posted May 4, 2007 Share Posted May 4, 2007 Get your AFR right first, then give it more timing. You should be able to run 26 degrees of advance easily. i run 11.5:1 under boost, is there a more optimal target? i figured better safe and rich than lean and fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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