WEBEZEEed

Overflow vent, connected via hose to small tube elbows on back side of air filter mounting plate.

If you are using the manual choke you can pull it up next time it acts up, if it helps ...... your lean.

Logr, I purchased the stainless ones from Group Harrington 2 years ago and installed on my 73 , paid around 1300.00 . They are a little lighter than the stock bumper. I had to do some bracket modifying for the front to fit, the problem was at the corner mounts ( didn't line up ) I'm pretty sure it is because it's a 73. I managed a pretty good fit after some aggressive bending of the bumper's bracket. If you ask they will produce them sans holes for the guards & rubber for a cleaner look. I also had a problem with the rear bumper passenger side corner piece. At it's forward end where it stops, that line was not verticle, it was at an angle. The driver side was good ( another member of our club had the same problem with his also purchased within a few weeks as mine ) after a couple of contacts with them I got them to take back the bumper and I received a correct one ( actually made in Viet Nam) I don't know if it was a new item or if mine was altered and returned. At any rate it looks good but the final polish in my opinion was just a tad short. Most might feel that the polish looks OK, but for 1300.00 it needs that last 5% effort on the polishing. I got the stainless for the reasoning of no rust, but had the MSA option been there at that time I just might have gone that route. I hope this helps & not muddy up .

Sounds like you just made a case FOR it being cheap?

I'm kind of diggin the cart it's resting on, Oh yea, the flares are cool too.

You might also check and verify that your valve lash is correct.

I was beginning to wonder, I have a 73 and a friend gave me a 280 rear bar and of course it did not fit, ( although I really tried to get to )

HI OFECR, just wondering on the no fit of the sway bars. Could you explain the problem on the rear.... was it a diameter difference or in the shape of the bar?

I was wondering if any one can confirm if that piece ( the two vertical posts ) threads in down from the top?

I like it! Thats pretty original thinking for that air box. That's a first for me, I've not seen one like that before. COOL

Think synthetic...... it's paint friendly.

Cyl. p.s.i. ? still got all the lobes on the cam? B T W I have 2 1/2 on my stock L24 & it runs quite well.

A little late, but on my 73 they are 5 x .8

AFCrain, if you are still considering tyring the S.U.s and buying the book (I got the best deal with Amazon) send me a P.M. and I'll go over with you what I experienced. You already have a good start with the 260 intake if it's the original. Even if you decide not to that book has very good info on all aspects of performance.

I'll respectfully disagree on the but dyno. My but is just fine. It tells me when it's running a little off, i don't know about anyone else but I am quite tuned ( there's that word again) to my Z. Surely I'm not the only one who really drives their car, gets to know its quirks & habits, can feel when it's HONKin, ( thats for any of the older guys) it's one of the main things that tells us something is not quite right. Actually I would be amazed if a car guy that has owned his ride for a good while couldn't tell! Now I'm not going to pretend to be able to tell someone down to the exact H.P. what it is or is not doing. If I could I'm in the wrong business. Maybe Tony D doesn't drive his Z enough. It's not a knock on Tony D.... maybe he has an insensitive ass. Good golly did I just really say that! I'm sorry Tony D that was immature of me, but damn! I just could not resist,

Well I've been at work all day and it seems I have missed a lot of dialogue. Tony D you are not the Amazing Kreskin you must be Carnack The Magnificent, you have to be because again you claim to know my state of mind by simply reading some little black letters on a white background. Let's all give him a big hand. Lets see( according to you) I'm offended, pissed,and went off in a puffery, wow! a puffery! the simple truth is when I am posting a reply you can't possibly know if I am laughing my ass off, bored to tears, grinding my teeth to nubs, or boxing baby brother with the left hand. It's true you don't know me.... simply a statement of fact, We have never met.... another factual statement, you don't know me or my vehicle at all.... what's to be offended about? Oh yea it's because you stated my H.P. was middle of the pack, wrong again. The #s were used to make a point ( you know a before and after comparison) they could be half that big deal,it still makes the same point. As I said before so be it, it is what it is. I've been reading your posts since I joined the board and agree with 99.9999% of them! But you know what...I never thought it to be unfortunate... as you do, seems you are the one offended. Tuning a car should be a given,any car guy will know that, even a young man that likes to work on the race car with dear ole dad. What I find odd is for someone to make a statement that bolt ons don't work.... you did make that statement i saw it , it was those little black letters on that white background, what about a cold air kit? oops bolt on , doesn't work, maybe a free flowing exhaust sys. oops bolt on doesn't work, ok how about a cool can oops bolt on , doesn't work, lets try triples oops bolt on , doesn't work, I got it... a high lift cam oops bolt on/in ,doesn't work.If they did not work everyone would be in completely stock cars. Who was it that posted that your not going to get any gains with S.U.s on a stock motor. I beg to differ,please re-read my post. Tony D maybe you can comment on this observation... even with the air flow improvements my A.F.R. goes 10.8-11.2 at full throttle? Can it be that they are still restricting my stock motor. I,ll bet that it is,and to your point it needs to be tuned, but it wasn't ,still got my 20-25 % Which means i;m leaving some H.P. on the table, not much but some. stock S.U.s are very restrictive but one CAN get good improvements with them with a little elbow grease. We can debate the meaning of tuning, personally I don't consider physical grinding/ sanding on S. U.s tuning,or at least that would not come to mind when I hear the word tune. I am sure some do and some don't. Maybe his first post should have been worded better,however since then he has tried to enlighten us on what he meant the post to say, it evolves,restates,corrects,and dare I say it ....it fine tunes.

Tony, AFC said he simply liked working on his car, thats great. I provided him with an option that if he wanted to put in a little time working on his S.U.s that he could see gains as I did. You are arguing with yourself, the only person talking about magic bullets and mindless bolt ons is you! You don't know me, we have never met,you don't know my Z, you don't have any idea what I can do or have done. So how is it that you can tell me what I done? Some how I don't think you are The Amazing Kreskin. It doesn't matter if you think my power levels are middle pack, so be it, it doesn't matter if it was 15 H.P. I think 20-25% is excellent for not spending any money save the cost of the book. I might guess that you have this book.The truth is my increases were 20-25% and the only difference....let me repeat...the only difference was the modifications to the S.U.s I didn't tune squat. All aspects of making sure the motor was in good running order were all ready in place. These are rear wheel # on a mustang dyno ( I've read other threads that hint of slightly lower readings on a mustang) on a 2.4 that now is over 200k miles and the head has never been off. My Z is nothing special and I'll bet that any other Z in good running order will respond likewise.

AFCrain, if you decide to get that book I think you'll consider it a good decision.There is a lot of information in it that pertains to most any internal combustion engine. You did ask for personal experiences in your title, in my case my 73 was run on a Mustang dyno where it put out 122 H.P. & 127 pound feet of torque using carbs off a 71 model. After I modified them i went back to the same dyno, same tester and achieved new numbers of 149 H.P. & 158 Tq. thats a gain of 22.1% H.P. & 24.4 on Tq. never touched the head! and I think those #s are a fair amount over stock. B T W my but dyno verifies the Mustang one. That has been a couple years ago and I have since removed the stock air horns and fabricated new ones a little shorter and wider with a much better entry radius. I also massaged the carb opening to match the new air horns. The car feels a bit stronger,maybe 5 H.P. or so ? I would now guess I'm in the 150-160 range. I would have to believe that if my motor was a fresh L28 that is 16% larger and better compression ( mine runs 155psi across all cyl. ) that 175-185 would not be out of the question. My own personal opinion/ experience is that major power improvements can be had in the Induction System.

Best bang for the buck....S.U.s get some from a 70,71,or 72 & the book Tuning the A series engine by David Vizard( following his tips on S.U.s ) and voila! 20-25%. increase in H.P. & torque.That's what my 73 with 173K mi. got. Not counting the price of the book it was all elbow grease.

Not trying to bash or anything,but is the subject the girl or the car? If its the car half of it is missing!

P.M. sent.

Madkaw, please do post what you observe with your wideband. I'm interested to see if you see the same things as I do with mine.

I have wondered many times how much money the person that invented Vice Grips made off of them!