Help, wont start, when I need it.

[New2TheZ2006]

Hello, have the stock 2.8 in my 75z. It has not been wanting to start. Turn the key to hear the fuel pump activate and lights come onand then "click." Battery checks out, alternator is new, all other electic working. Any ideas. Not a morning, wet, or dry weather issue just when I need to drive the car the most, ya know pickup kids or something important like court NO GO>

 

To fix it I come back later minutes or hours and it just works I dont do anything to make it work. Whats that all about.

 

 

Thanks

J:icon_frow n

[mario_82_ZXT]

Sounds like iffy or corroded battery terminal connections.

 

Mario

[New2TheZ2006]

Yeah I would think same but have less than year old battery, new cable connectors installed all shiney and new...

[Alex_V]

I know on my maxima or 240sx, the neg battery cable bolts to the frame just after the neg terminal then goes to the block and else where.

 

Alot of the time it will corrode and break at the chassis connection point, so you have to check all the connection points and make sure they are still intact.

 

~Alex

[twoeightythreez]

I changed your title in my reply because this is what it sounds like you're describing.

When it does this again, leave key in "on" pos, make sure you're in Neutral (or P with auto) and pull the spade conn. off the starter solenoid, jump it to the batt. term (the one on the starter, not the actual battery!) with a screwdriver. If the car cranks over and starts then...

reconnect the solenoid spade connector...then...

(If it's an automatic)

Turn key to "start", hold it there, get on the brake, and move the shifter through the range.

If it starts, adjust or replace the inhibitor switch.

IF nothing happens, replace the lock cylinder/ign. sw. assy (the ign sw usually does not go bad, it's usually the lock cylinder cam that bends and won't completley close the start contacts, which then fries the ign switch contact)

(If it's a stick)

Replace the lock cyl/ign sw assembly.

TO test it, prior to replacing it, unbolt the ign sw. from the lock cyl and turn with a screwdriver.

This is going on your saying that the battery cables, starter, battery are all in good order.

My bet is with the ign switch, old nissans (not just Z's) are notorious for this.

[New2TheZ2006]

Thanks, I just ordered and picked up a new ignition switch. I think your right. I put in new battery connectors, and a new starter, so what else could it be? Thanks for all the help I will see what this does for me.

 

J;-) n

[New2TheZ2006]

Well, I installed a ocmplete new lock mechanism with new ignition switch and nothing. I still have the problem. I have noticed the tach needle jumpping when I am turning the key but it wont crank. I hear a sound as if the fuel pump is charged, but then click click.

 

How hard is it to direct wire a start button to avoid the issue. For that matter, I have eliminnated the side marker lights while doing my body work, so would it be easier to rewire the stupid thing? I hate electrical isssues.

 

I am considering an all aluminum dash with different guages and all, so would it be hard to rewire, well lets see; lights, ignition well starter, tach, oil, fuel, battery, etc.

 

What do we think guys? Saw one guy with the aluminum dash with an all in one digital readout brain control center. Are these really hard to install and pay for >LoL<

 

Or is there a replacement factory harness I can swap out for easy/ Any ideas.

 

Thanks in advance.

[New2TheZ2006]

Where is the inhibitor switch thing. I have replaced all other parts so it is all that is left except for a short in the wiring.

 

PS

Dont mean to sound ignorant, but I am, Hence the name I use.

 

Jon

[Ledphoot]

Sounds like a ground cable issue. Have you checked/replaced the actual battery cables not just ends?

[New2TheZ2006]

Cables look good far as I can tell.

 

Does this thing have a starter relay, I dont see one listed in my Chilton book, but that doesn't mean it's not there, unless it never had one. Anybody know? I dont see it just tracing the yellow wire off the cylnoid, it goes into the harnes back into the firewall and into a connector with alot of other wires.

 

Does the stock system have a starter relay?

 

So lost, but dont want to just wire in a push to start button (lol).

[Ledphoot]

did you say it "clicks" sometimes when you hit the key but doesnt spin or does it do nothing at all under the hood?

[New2TheZ2006]

The ignition turns, I hear what I believe to be the fuel pump spinning up, lights on the dash come on as if it is going to start, and I hear a single click. Does this thing have an inhibitore switch somewhere even though it is a four speed?

 

 

Thing is I sit there for a couple seconds turn the key four or five times and it does turn over and start usually. If not right away within a few minutes, without any other attention.

 

ps

Click is not like the click click click of a bad starter not turning, or least not to me. But hey, who am I to say I am the novice here. Hope this clarifies my issue.

[mom'sZ]

Here are a couple of ideas. It sounds like there is a bad connection somewhere. This is a thirty year old car and they are notorious for crusty connections. I also noticed you mentioned that the battery was new, then you stated (I think) less then 1 year old. Well, some cheap batteries only last a year. Honestly, my car used to do the same exact thing you are describing. The battery was about a year and a half old at the time, but it was a cheapy two year battery. I found if I turned the key off and on again once or twice (basically try again) it would start. But I replaced the cheapy battery with an Optima red top and replaced the cables at the same time (during an major maintainence session including engine pull, tranny swap) and never had the same problem again. A lot of times a battery will hold full voltage until it's under a load. The only way to truely test them is with a load tester or specific gravity tester (three bucks at Autozone) I'm not suggesting you buy a new battery, but you may want to have it tested. (just because a part was recently purchased doesn't mean it's good) First double check any connections. Buy a can of electric contact cleaner. dissconnect all your connectors and look at them. If they look at all crusty, give them a little scrub with a small wire brush or whatever and a blast of contact cleaner. Double check the battery cables, clean the terminals, clean the ground connections to the block and firewall. Keep looking, it's there, good luck, you'll get it!

[naviathan]

Next time it does it try tapping the solenoid with a wrench or extension (something metal) and try it again it might start.

Also I've read that if the external voltage regulator is going out it can effect the starter. Might want to try getting a new one. They're not expensive.

[New2TheZ2006]

I keep hearing the same thing, so guess what. I am going to listen. I will load test the battery on tuesday. If bad I will replace the who knows how old Panasonic battery. >LOL< That name brand should speak volumes. It must be cheap, and surely could be bad. If not I will replace the all black wires that connect to the battery. Then if no go, voltage regulator here I come. Thanks guys, I will keep yall posted.

 

Jon

 

PS

Merry Christmas

[roger.svoboda]

Maybe I missed it but did you check the starter itself. Sounds like the built in solenoid is working but the motor portion is not. They do go bad.

[New2TheZ2006]

Yup, been through two totally different starters and still the same problem.

[New2TheZ2006]

Here is how I fixed the problem. I put a relay inline from the ignition wire that goes to the starter. I ran it through a toggle switch for looks and a passive anti theft device. Then of course wired in the ground and battery positive lead. Since I installed the relay no more problems. It now draws power for the starter straight from the battery, which seems to have corrected the issue.

 

I tried this relay fix based on an earlier post that early model 240, 260 and 280s had issue with the amount of current allowed to pass throught the ignition, which could cause starting problems. So, I went out on a limb and for under twenty dollars POOF, the problem is gone.

 

As always thanks guys for all the input.

 

PS

Any opinions on if I should take out the injection and install a set of carbs? I got a friend who builds Porsche race cars who offered a set of carbs rebuilt and installed $50 total. I would like to loose the mess under the hood to clean it up a bit, but don't really have an opinion either way.

[mom'sZ]

PS

Any opinions on if I should take out the injection and install a set of carbs? I got a friend who builds Porsche race cars who offered a set of carbs rebuilt and installed $50 total. I would like to loose the mess under the hood to clean it up a bit, but don't really have an opinion either way.

New2theZ2006:

I'm a big fan of the stock fuel injection. IMHO it is far more versatile, will deliver great mileage and give good performance. It's a simple system, once you learn how it works and get it in good shape it will run great and need zero maintainence. There is a huge knowledge base here and on other z sites for diagnoising problems. There are a lot of performance upgrades to help it keep up with other engine modifications. If under hood appearance is important, here in warm Florida, a bunch of the stuff can be removed. Tweaks can be made to the ECU or an aftermarket controller can be used for total control. I would never go carb if I was you. If you do however, I will buy your AFM, ECU and fuel injection harness. Just my opinion, carb guys... flame suit on!

[z-hag]

have you tried jumping it with a screwdriver or such rubber handled tool--solenoid /starter????

 

i always had to starty my poogoat that way(peugeaut).............

every time i testedthe starter and solenoid they tested out fine, but the pooey car would not evwer start without my filet knife to the 2 connections.........