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Cam bearings, are there any?


gjc5500

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I cannot find a place that sells the bearings for the cam. am i missing something? does it not have bearings? My spray bar broke so i lost oilpressure to the top end, as a result, i burned up my bearings. now when i run the engine i hear a scratching noise from the top end. Where can i find these bearings at?

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GJC,

I do have some complete sets of cam towers from core heads. Do you need set for use with the spray bar or are you converting to internally oiled cam? I know I have several sets for internally oiled cams, not sure if I have any extras for spray bar set ups…

 

Also, if you locate your own cam towers, be sure to label them in a manner that you wont mix them up when you go to reinstall them. Personally, I number then them 1-5, #1 being the forward most tower. Install them in that same order.

 

 

Paul

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You should be able to find a set in the local U-Pull-it yard at a reasonable price, but if not, I just happen to have one extra set of spray bar cam towers, (I have around 10 sets of the internally oiled cam towers…). I’ll sell my spray bar style towers including shipping to Cali, $50, (spray bar not included. We don’t have any extras, sorry). Non spray bar style towers for $40 including shipping.

 

Paul Ruschman

braapZ350@hotmail.com

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Actually...

There are inserts from Nissan that were available for the IRON towers from the early L-4 engines. Thin walled bushings will also work---it's a common machining practice. Line-bore the towers oversize, then install bushings.

 

You can also have the towers welded up with a heliarc, and then re-linebored.

 

All common machine shop stuff.

 

But finding good ones in the JY is easier.....now...

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So are you pulling an entire L-28E? If you have the choice, get one with the P-79 head, it should have the flat top pistons. The Flat top pistons and P-79 are a good street combo.

 

You also have a Private Message as well in regards to Z-32 parts…

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PMed u back. I was searching around, fruitlessly, about the swap. I know i need the engine w/ everythign on it, the harness, and the ecu. I was wondering the location of the Ecu, and what else do i need from the car? also, will the l28 bolt up to my 73 4speed?

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Yes ALL L-series engines use the same bell housing bolt pattern which will bolt up to your tranny. I PMd you about the possibility of a 5 speed. It would be a NICE upgrade.

If you want to run the EFI, yes, you will need ALL the EFI goodies, ECU, Air Flow meter, etc. I’ve converted SEVERAL 240Z cars to EFI L-28’s. It goes pretty smooth as long as you have all the parts. The ECU will be on the driver side kick panel. Also, to mount the Air Flow meter in your 240 body, you will want to use the AFM mount from a ’75-’78 280Z. You will also want to use the boots from the ’75-’78 280Z as well. I just happen to have an Air Flow Meter mount I removed from a 280Z, (they are spot welded on so you have to drill the spot welds. You then just bolt it on the fender). If you decide to go the EFI route and need parts like the Air Flow Meter mount, boots etc, I’m sure we can work something out, partial trade for the Z-32 parts etc.

 

Now you don’t have to the run the EFI if you don’t want to. Your carb setup will bolt on just the same as it does on your current engine. The EFI heads are drilled and tapped for both carbs and EFI. Also, your square port exhaust manifold/header WILL work with the round exhaust of the later L-28’s.

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GJC,

Sounds similar to the setup I had in my 240 Z race car, L-28 with MSnS-e and the EDIS distributor less ignition. It ran great.

 

For me, I just used the GM water temp and GM air temp sensors as sold through DIY auto tune or RS Autosport. Those sensors are very accurate and a no brainer with Mega Squirt, just plug and play, no special calibration needed.

 

For MS, you wont need or even want the Datsun ECU or even the wiring harness. It would be easier to just build your own harness than to try and adapt the old OE harness to use with MS. It is MUCH easier to use the MS universal wiring harness as sold though DIY Auto tune and RS Autosport.

 

Pearl3Medium.jpg

 

 

Hope that helps,

Paul

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GJC,

Sounds similar to the setup I had in my 240 Z race car, L-28 with MSnS-e and the EDIS distributor less ignition. It ran great.

 

For me, I just used the GM water temp and GM air temp sensors as sold through DIY auto tune or RS Autosport. Those sensors are very accurate and a no brainer with Mega Squirt, just plug and play, no special calibration needed.

 

For MS, you wont need or even want the Datsun ECU or even the wiring harness. It would be easier to just build your own harness than to try and adapt the old OE harness to use with MS. It is MUCH easier to use the MS universal wiring harness as sold though DIY Auto tune and RS Autosport.

 

Pearl3Medium.jpg

 

 

Hope that helps,

Paul

 

This is off topic... but is that a Ron Davis radiator? looks just like mine.

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