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R/T mount shipping


Roostmonkey

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Got my mount in the mail the other day and it looks great. Have the poly mount trimmed to fit and now I just need to do the install.

 

So has anyone with a 280Z installed this yet? If so any advice or tricks that I need to know about?

 

HB280ZT

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Anyone else tried to install this in an early 70? Mine is not fitting. It's not that the part is built wrong, but there is a little flared edge on the sheet metal that it sits against which prevents it from going all the way up in the tunnel. The solution is going to be to notch the front end of both sides of the mount about 1/2".

 

I've got mine stripped on a rotisserie so its easy to see what is going on, but I figured I'd share for those of you on your back trying to see through 30 years of caked on grease with a drop light.

 

Here's a picture of the flared piece that interferes with the installation:

RTmount1.jpg

 

Here is the mount laid in the trans tunnel showing the part that needs removal for it to fit:

RTmount2.jpg

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Jon,

 

I installed mine last weekend before SEZ, my car is a series one chassis. I didnt have to cut anything but I also dont remember that protrusion.

 

another problem I believe you will run into is that mounting hole is located in the wrong spot. I mounted mine with the reinforcement piece forward as the hole didnt line up longitudinally with the differential, when i mounted it with that piece forward the hole didnt line up laterally. Perhaps they bent the piece the wrong way, I had to drill my hole for the isolator so it was offset to the other side the same distance (I believe 3" over and 1" up) then it worked fine. I contacted Roostmonkey about it but havent recieved a reply, it may just be something with our cars but i dont think so.

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Jon,

 

I installed mine last weekend before SEZ, my car is a series one chassis. I didnt have to cut anything but I also dont remember that protrusion.

 

another problem I believe you will run into is that mounting hole is located in the wrong spot. I mounted mine with the reinforcement piece forward as the hole didnt line up longitudinally with the differential, when i mounted it with that piece forward the hole didnt line up laterally. Perhaps they bent the piece the wrong way, I had to drill my hole for the isolator so it was offset to the other side the same distance (I believe 3" over and 1" up) then it worked fine. I contacted Roostmonkey about it but havent recieved a reply, it may just be something with our cars but i dont think so.

Now that you mention it I can see what you mean about the hole being on the wrong side, and I can see that redrilling the hole would take care of that issue. I don't think the placement of the reinforcing piece really matters one way or the other.

 

With regards to the other issue, mine sits about an inch too low, and that flared area is what is stopping it from sliding all the way up until the bolt holes line up. So I think the mount is going to get cut. Not a biggee, I was more concerned with alerting others.

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Sorry your having to modify these brkts.It seems that theres more variations in bodys than you'd think.Double check that the brackets you have , match the R/T drawing.I checked the ones I have here and they are to print. Luckily drilling another hole or cutting a little notch is easy to do but again, I'm sorry if thats what you need to do.

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Jon, I wouldn't weld it in because it is not really necessary and 2 you won't have acess to the parking brake stuff up above it. There is also a fuel / brake line bracket up there if you kept the stock stuff. Plus there is alway an outside chance either the mount or one of the isolator bolts could break. It would be nice to be able to remove the part under those circumstances.

 

The one I made for my series 1 is more narrow than that unit. It has dead straight sides (no little wings down by the bolt holes) and is just wide enough to fit inbetween the protrusion and that metal ridge. The side of the mount is flush to the ridge.

 

diff_mount.jpg

 

Are sure you can't hammer that pig up into place?

 

Since I know you won't want to do that, I would weld a plate over the 3 mounting holes, cut that tab off so the front down piece is straight, then move the whole thing forward so it is flush to that metal lip. That should get the mount forward of the protrusion. You can then drill new mounting holes and call it a day.

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Pop N Wood I see your mount has the poly off set to the right and on my early 260 its ofset to the left. Now whats the difference in Drivetrain thats making the series one set to one side and the rest to the other? It would seem to me that the mustach bar holes would then be different as well.

 

Off the top of my head I don't remember how I mounted that unit in the car. I think it is offset to the passenger's side.

 

I swapped in an R200 some years ago. So the diff sits wherever an R200 would sit in a 280 since that is most likely the type of car I pulled everything off.

 

When I made the diff mount I drilled the isolator holes to fit the natural position of the diff. I then aligned the motor/trans to the diff. The overhead diff mount, along with the JTR mod to the mustache bar bushings, got the nose of the diff down and allowed me to reduce the tilt on my V8 swap. The engine now sits nice and low with the trans still tight up in the tunnel.

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