deja Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 Last weekend was SEZ8 so I didn't work on the car at all. The previous weekend however I did accomplish some things. I got the knock sensor mounted on the drivers side using The Dial Zone's adapter. http://www.thedetailzone.com/GM%20Fuel%20Inj%20Access.htm Yeah, I could have drilled and tapped the setback plate but I really didn't want to pull that thing out and for $17 delivered this was probably cheaper than buying a bit and a tap, took me 10 minutes to install. I had to add some wire to reach it but I would have had to do that anyway. I also had to lengthen the O2 sensor harness on the driver's side. I made my tranny mount inside reinforcing pieces and got them installed ready to be welded in. I also finally made a decision on how to run the spark plug wires. Its a combination of many of the ideas I got from this board. I ran them though the accessory mount on the passenger side and around the Bower AC mount on the driver's side. I still used the wire loom bracket that normally mounts on the valve cover. But the stock wires were too short so I made an adapter to drop the loom bracket down some. Hopefully this will keep the wires off the headers and I think it looks OK. I remounted the radiator and made some supporting brackets to reinforce the top mounting ears. I also made a mount for my B&M transmission cooler just using aluminum angle. I got the transmision oil cooler lines hooked up using 5/16" lines, after one trip to Northern Tool and three trips to Advanced Auto Parts. On Ebay I had scored some stainless Corvette FI braided hoses that quick connect to the LT1 fuel rails. My buddy Chris flared them for me to accept 3/8" brake line, stainless is tough to flare, thankfully he has a small press. I will run 3/8" input and return lines with a filter near the tank. I hope to get started on the Camaro tank install shortly, that's going to take some fabrication. I did some searching on HybridZ for what to use for radiator hoses with an LT1 and JTR radiator and found this: Top hose (driver's side): Gates hose # 21557 Bottom hose (pass. side): top is Gates hose # 20065, bottom is Gates hose #21353 I looked at the water pump, counted connections and discovered my water pump has one too many fittings. Turns out Camaros and Firebirds have an extra fitting in case the LT1 is used in their performance models and requires an oil cooler??????????? On the Z28 radiator there is a fitting to hook this up, on the JTR there is not. What to do? Asked that on HybridZ and basically I need to remove the oil cooler fitting from the water pump and seal it off. The fitting is pressed in so you have to just work on it until it will pull out, why do I sense a disaster in the making! There are two methods to seal off the hole. Tap out the hole and use a screw in plug or use an expandable freeze plug. I decided to go the freeze plug way since it will be easier to do on the car and there is no way I'm pulling all that engine front end stuff off to remove the water pump, thanks to Bartman for that freeze plug tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-8 Posted March 27, 2007 Share Posted March 27, 2007 I see you're running the 4l60e, are you thinking of getting some of those new paddle shifters? I think I would have, had I not be planning on putting a t-56 in mine. Just wondering though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted March 27, 2007 Author Share Posted March 27, 2007 I see you're running the 4l60e, are you thinking of getting some of those new paddle shifters? I think I would have, had I not be planning on putting a t-56 in mine. Just wondering though. Yep, that is on the list but its going to have to wait a while. Like everyone says triple the time and double the cost of your estimates on a hotrod project. It was a hard choice to give up the manual, but in this day of horrible traffic I went automatic. I'm building a daily driver and I live in Atlanta. If you've ever been here you'd know why. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z_cars_rule Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 looks like you are getting really close now. I hear ya on the auto with traffic thing, that is one of the reasons i am going auto on my swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 "I did some searching on HybridZ for what to use for radiator hoses with an LT1 and JTR radiator and found this: Top hose (driver's side): Gates hose # 21557 Bottom hose (pass. side): top is Gates hose # 20065, bottom is Gates hose #21353" Deja, Can you go back through this list on the hoses for the LT1? TH driver's side: #21557 This is clear. BH pass side: ? What number is this one? top: #20065 What hose is this for? Is this an alternate for #21557? bottom: #21353 What hose is this for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted March 28, 2007 Author Share Posted March 28, 2007 [quote name=Danno74Z;752994Deja' date=' Can you go back through this list on the hoses for the LT1? TH driver's side: #21557 This is clear. BH pass side: ? What number is this one? top: #20065 What hose is this for? Is this an alternate for #21557? bottom: #21353 What hose is this for?[/quote] I found the 21557 was a "tight" fit for the top radiator hose. It works but its not perfect, I had to bend it some and cut off a little on the water pump side. For the bottom radiator hose you need to insert the "T" fitting for the steam pipe coming from the heads. From the bottom of the radiator I used 21535 then the "T" fitting, then 20065 goes to the water pump. Again I had the trim a little on 20065 to get it to fit with the "T". Hope that clears it up, if not I can take some pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 Thanks Danno74z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted March 28, 2007 Author Share Posted March 28, 2007 Thanks Danno74z This is a pict I saw on Bartman's website. I used it as reference for the "T" when I did mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 Deja, I'm pretty sure that steam hose T-fitting goes in the hose that connects to the top of the radiator. It allows the hot steam to enter the top of the radiator with the hot water coming out of the block VS. being added to the cooled water coming from the radiator. Anyone, Please correct me if I'm wrong here as I have mine hooked up with the steam hose connected to the top radiator (inlet) hose. I haven't had problems with it but if it's wrong I want to get it changed before I do. Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 Deja,I'm pretty sure that steam hose T-fitting goes in the hose that connects to the top of the radiator. It allows the hot steam to enter the top of the radiator with the hot water coming out of the block VS. being added to the cooled water coming from the radiator. Anyone, Please correct me if I'm wrong here as I have mine hooked up with the steam hose connected to the top radiator (inlet) hose. I haven't had problems with it but if it's wrong I want to get it changed before I do. Wheelman You may be correct. Here's a diagram from shbox.com that appears to show the steam fitting in the top hose.http://shbox.com/1/93-94_hoses.jpg p/n 10256244 looks like the lower hose without the T-fitting and p/n 10197675 looks like the top hose with the T-fitting. My engine looks a little different now, but it still using the same hose setup. Maybe I should change mine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 Here's some information regrading the steam vent Steam Vents: The LT1 has strategically placed steam vents at the back of both cylinder heads. Since the heads are the hottest part of the engine, pockets of steam can be more easily generated there. The steam vents are connected together by a crossover vent tube at the back of the heads, which directs any steam and a small flow of coolant to the front of the engine where it flows through the throttle body, warming it for improved cold weather performance. After passing through the throttle body, most of the steam is condensed back into liquid coolant and returned to the system. In LT1 B/D-cars, coolant exiting the throttle body is passed directly into a pressurized coolant reservoir where any air remaining in the coolant is completely scavenged. In LT1 F-cars, coolant from the throttle body connects to the heater outlet via a vented "tee" connector, where any trapped air in the system can be bled off manually. Eliminating steam pockets and foam in the coolant allows for more uniform cooling system performance, preventing hot spots and potential overheating. I got this information from this link: http://www.theherd.com/articles/lt1_cool.html Based on this information I think the steam vent should be moved and maybe the heater outlet would be the best candidate for those of us running heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mattster03 Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 great project thread. i actually did the same as bartman putting the "tee" fitting into the lower radiator inlet, i too never had an issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 Bart, After looking very closely at that diagram it appears the steam hose connects to the top of the right side radiator tank. The hose that is connecting to the top radiator appears to come from the water pump so now I'm confused. Maybe thats the tranny cooler hookup for the F-body cars. In the original configuration of my LT1 the steam hose went to the throttle body then to the expansion tank to be recirculated. The expansion tank is now gone and the steam hose is not connected to the throttle body so I hooked the steam hose to the hot return to the radiator. I figured this was better than putting hot steam/water into the cooled water coming from the radiator. Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 It seems like it would be a better idea to put it in the upper hose or the heater return hose so that it doesn't heat the water before it enters the engine. More info from JTR: LT1 Steam Vent Tee The LT1 engines use a reverse flow cooling system, and the rear of the cylinder heads have vent tubes to purge any steam pockets that form during engine operation. Without the vent tube, steam pockets would form, and the cylinder heads would get localized hot spots that could damage the cylinder heads. The reason to install the vent tube into the upper radiator hose is so that you don’t need a radiator with a special fitting for the vent tube. The tee that is typically used for an LT1 engine is the 1.25" x .38" tee, which is installed in the upper radiator hose. http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_TPI-TBI_Brass-Tees.html It would also seem to be a good idea to install some sort of manual valve at this location to allow any air trapped in the system to be bled off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 I would think the flow of coolant into the radiator would pull any air from the steam hose into the upper radiator hose. Once there it "should" go into the radiator and be purged into the overflow tank. Does that make sense? Wheelman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted March 28, 2007 Author Share Posted March 28, 2007 You may be correct. Here's a diagram from shbox.com that appears to show the steam fitting in the top hose.http://shbox.com/1/93-94_hoses.jpg p/n 10256244 looks like the lower hose without the T-fitting and p/n 10197675 looks like the top hose with the T-fitting. My engine looks a little different now, but it still using the same hose setup. Maybe I should change mine? On a Camaro that is true, but the top little hose fitting on the JTR is for the expansion tank. There is no extra hose fitting for the steam hose on the JTR radiator. I re-read the JRT manual, also on their web site and it looks like I have it wrong. LT1 engines have a steam vent tube which requires plumbing from the back of the block to the radiator side or upper radiator hose. 1993-1997 Camaros run the vent tube into the radiator tank. 1993 -1996 Corvettes run the vent tube into the upper radiator hose. Stealth Conversions offers a brass tee which splices into the 1¼” upper radiator hose and a 3/8” vent tube can be attached to the 3/8” fitting. Looks like I should use one on the splicers JTR sent where I have the "T" and put the "T" in my upper radiator hose. That might make that upper hose fit better too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted March 29, 2007 Share Posted March 29, 2007 ... Looks like I should use one on the splicers JTR sent where I have the "T" and put the "T" in my upper radiator hose. That might make that upper hose fit better too. Are the upper and lower radiator hoses the same size? If not you could probably cap the outlet in the "T" and just get the JTR "T" for the top hose. In addition I'm not sure the JTR splice is as long as the "T" you installed, so you have the possiblity of the hose being too short. According to the JTR web site the JTR radiator has a 1 5/16" Inlert and a 1 9/16" outlet, but I think that may be incorrect. Let me know what you wind up doing, because I will probably do the same thing. My engine is already running hotter than I would like, and it seems to make more sense to have the steam go into the radiator than into the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted March 29, 2007 Author Share Posted March 29, 2007 Are the upper and lower radiator hoses the same size? If not you could probably cap the outlet in the "T" and just get the JTR "T" for the top hose. In addition I'm not sure the JTR splice is as long as the "T" you installed, so you have the possiblity of the hose being too short. According to the JTR web site the JTR radiator has a 1 5/16" Inlert and a 1 9/16" outlet, but I think that may be incorrect. Let me know what you wind up doing, because I will probably do the same thing. My engine is already running hotter than I would like, and it seems to make more sense to have the steam go into the radiator than into the engine. Hmm. good points. But the bottom Gates hose is bigger at the radiator than the other end which is 1 5/16, same as the themostat housing. Not sure about the top Gates hose. Ok I couldn't wait until tomorrow. How soon I forget. I had ordered on of Stealth's hose rubber sleeve adapters to adapt the bottom radiator hose to the T. This allowed me to use the 1 5/16 splicer I also ordered to couple the bottom hose to the thermo housing hose. I then moved my 1 5/16 T to the upper hose, it fits perfect although I think there must be a better hose for this. However the steam hose is too short to reach so I will either have to splice more hose in or replace the one on the tube. Replacing the stock one doesn't look easy, GM uses those crimp on clamps and the tube is pretty tight to the manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted March 29, 2007 Author Share Posted March 29, 2007 Here's some information regrading the steam vent In LT1 F-cars, coolant from the throttle body connects to the heater outlet via a vented "tee" connector, where any trapped air in the system can be bled off manually. /quote] Here is a shbox pict of that vented Tee fitting. I should have this in the pile of Z28 stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.