Sound proof the deck!

[Daeron]

Like this? It can be purchased in wider rolls.

 

Question: What does this material look like unerneath?

 

I worked for a vet, and we got cold shipments in these insulated bags.. I assumed they were mylar on the outside, and it looks like bubble wrap on the inside, with not mylar or aluminum layer on the inside.. I was gonna cut all these bags up and use them to insulate my car on the cheap, and had anticipated installing them mylar side down.

 

Is this material aluminum coated on both sides, or does the underside look like bubble wrap, like what I have?

[SSflyer]

Spotfitz, Where did you get those cool looking tower covers? Did you make them yourself?

[spotfitz]

Is this material aluminum coated on both sides, or does the underside look like bubble wrap, like what I have?

Aluminum on both sides and bubble wrap in the middle. I purchased 3 rolls from an Ebay seller that is local to my area.

 

 

Spotfitz, Where did you get those cool looking tower covers? Did you make them yourself?

Yes, I made them with some sewing help from my mother-in-law. I let the professionals do the seats. I'll be making the door panels aswell, one of these days. They will have the same theme as the seats.

[Armand]

I started installing the fatmat I got the other day. Very very easy job. It's easy but time consuming. In about an hour of work I got half the trunk fatmatted. The material conforms to curves and such very well. That roller they give you doesn't do squat though.

 

I did a small test with some scrap fatmat. I put it on one side of an aluminum sheet I have, which is very loud if you drop it. It was really amazing how much quieter the drop was after putting fatmat on it. I'll let you guys know how the outcome is. I will be doing it in every single place in the interior except the roof. Firewall,floors, rear quarter panels, trunk, doors, hatch, everywhere.

[sweetleaf]

For anybody considering doing this. I would definately recomend checking out this link somebody else posted. I've personally experimented with different sound dampners. The asphault ones fall very short of the butyl rubber ones. If you are going to do the asphault, you might as well get the home depot stuff..

 

 

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

[Guest ZIII]

Fatmat is inexpensive and there is a good reason why..... Seems like every time I have gone the inexpensive route on my car it ends up costing me more but that’s a whole other story.

 

Seems like there is some debate whether Fatmat is really asphalt or butyl based… a lot of accusations and counter accusations are floating around and some guy who just recently installed Fatmat was complaining about the smell. Anyway, I have found several interesting auto sound/stereo sites where these discussions take place and these guys, while mostly deadening for sound and stereo competition, do take this stuff seriously and are generally not enamored with Fatmat….. Just one example: http://www.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Board=6&Number=1033198&Searchpage=1&Main=72305&Words=fatmat&topic=0&Search=true#Post1033198

[260zjade]

new news to me...im thinking im just gonna bite the financial bullet and go with dynamat! all i hear are good things things about it

[Guest ZIII]

I feel like I am beating a dead horse here…. Seems to me, that if you are going to go through all that effort and time to dismantle your car in order to do this, you should do it right. This is not like trying a RX7 fuel pump found in a junkyard and seeing if it works as good or better than a new Holley. That is but a 30-minute operation. Doesn’t work, toss it and your out 20 bucks or so.

 

Sound deadening is serious business. You put this stiff in and if something goes wrong you will have a hell of a time getting it out. So, you take everything apart, prep all the areas, address all the issues that your dismantling presents to you and believe me in 30 year old cars there will be many, and then get ready to put your deadener in. After all this, are you worried about saving 100 bucks? I think not. After all this you want to get the best possible stuff in there so you never have to worry about it.

 

The simple fact of the matter is that we are blessed to have a half dozen companies out there that make really great products. Dymamat is certainly the industry leader and one can’t go wrong with them. But, there are a number of companies that make equal or better products for much less than Dynamat.

 

I am a firm believer in learning from other people experiences. I have enough surprises in my life without creating my own. For what one is undertaking to put this stuff in, it seems foolish to me to cut corners or to try to save what comes to a little over 100 bucks by using a product that not just some, but many, have issues with. If money is the’ issue’ then my advice is don’t do it until it isn’t.

 

When I narrowed my choices down to six products my work really began. I went on their websites, called them on the phone (amazing what you learn about a company when you do that) got sample products, compared prices and most importantly, spoke with folks that actually used it.

 

By the time I did all my homework, got the car apart, did all the detailed prep work etc., I wasn’t much interested in saving a hundred bucks. I was only interested in getting the very best product in there so I would never have to wonder if it was good or would I worry about it.

 

I happen to have chosen Second Skin. There are certainly other quality manufacturers out there. It is just that IMO, Fatmat is not one of them.

[sweetleaf]

Agreed with the above. That is what I've been trying to get people to understand. I went with RAAMmat BXT60. Great company and support.

[Cable]

Aluminum on both sides and bubble wrap in the middle. I purchased 3 rolls from an Ebay seller that is local to my area.

 

Do you remember the sellers name?

 

Thanks!!

[spotfitz]

Do you remember the sellers name?

 

Thanks!!

 

Sorry for the delay. I was out of town. I'm pretty sure this is the one.

http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/lobucrod/

But his listings are now labeled as Automotive insulation. He was selling this stuff as water heater wraps and garage door insulation before, if I recall correctly. Here is a listing:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Automotive-Heat-and-Sound-Insulation_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46094QQihZ014QQitemZ330115313978QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

[Lewis Maudlin]

I feel like I am beating a dead horse here…. Seems to me, that if you are going to go through all that effort and time to dismantle your car in order to do this, you should do it right. This is not like trying a RX7 fuel pump found in a junkyard and seeing if it works as good or better than a new Holley. That is but a 30-minute operation. Doesn’t work, toss it and your out 20 bucks or so.

 

Sound deadening is serious business. You put this stiff in and if something goes wrong you will have a hell of a time getting it out. So, you take everything apart, prep all the areas, address all the issues that your dismantling presents to you and believe me in 30 year old cars there will be many, and then get ready to put your deadener in. After all this, are you worried about saving 100 bucks? I think not. After all this you want to get the best possible stuff in there so you never have to worry about it.

 

The simple fact of the matter is that we are blessed to have a half dozen companies out there that make really great products. Dymamat is certainly the industry leader and one can’t go wrong with them. But, there are a number of companies that make equal or better products for much less than Dynamat.

 

I am a firm believer in learning from other people experiences. I have enough surprises in my life without creating my own. For what one is undertaking to put this stuff in, it seems foolish to me to cut corners or to try to save what comes to a little over 100 bucks by using a product that not just some, but many, have issues with. If money is the’ issue’ then my advice is don’t do it until it isn’t.

 

When I narrowed my choices down to six products my work really began. I went on their websites, called them on the phone (amazing what you learn about a company when you do that) got sample products, compared prices and most importantly, spoke with folks that actually used it.

 

By the time I did all my homework, got the car apart, did all the detailed prep work etc., I wasn’t much interested in saving a hundred bucks. I was only interested in getting the very best product in there so I would never have to wonder if it was good or would I worry about it.

 

I happen to have chosen Second Skin. There are certainly other quality manufacturers out there. It is just that IMO, Fatmat is not one of them.

 

Agreed. I went with dynamat extreme and the double sided aluminum crap. The dynamat extreme is for the sound deadening and is supposed to block some heat. It also weighs 1/4 what dynamat weighs. The stuff with aluminum on both sides is supposed to block about 99% of radiant heat. Kind of important when driving a Z.

[74Adam]

I can er....um second the second skin recommendation....lol.

 

I bought some for my corolla when I was upgrading the sound system. Put it in the doors and the rear deck. The speakers sounds very good and the doors sound more solid when they are shut. Not an earthshattering difference, but you can tell. I used about a fourth of what I purchased and the rest will go in the Z. I'm looking forward to seeing how much heat I can reduce from coming in through the floors pans and transmission tunnel.

[cooks240z]

hum, I just wanted to share my 2cts, I prefer cascade vb2 on all my stereo installs. the showdown said this

"The Cascade VB2 is a completely different composition than the other mats. It held up very well, but I only included it in this showdown out of curiosity. Cascade has contacted me and will be sending samples of their butyl damping mat for future testing"

I have installed this material when i sell a car audio installs, they also have a good Waterproof Dampening Spray these are just what I have found to work and be affordable and the spray has high heat rejection.( put it on my sisters firewall which has a stainless racing header 1 1/2" away and she no longer feels the heat from it) once again this is just my 2 cents worth and I hope that if you are going to buy a product be sure that you have a good idea that it is made for your application. (also my in car decible level with the spray behind all doors and under the carpet on the top went down 17.3 db and my system increased 9.7 db). Thanks.....

[jumblies]

To ressurect this thread. Has anyone ever tried to remove these Tar based deadeners? I presume the Dry Ice method would be best?